My toenails are cut and swiped free of any polish (they hate being naked by the way), calluses are built up and expensive socks are packed in backpack AND duffle bag. My feet, calves, thighs, and, hopefully, knees are ready for the trek down the canyon and then, a few days later, back up (I once walked Bright Angel trail with a friend. We only did 1/2 the trail, and I was ready to sell my soul to the devil just so I wouldn't have to climb back up. This one is the full deal, heaven help us all). I've been training since I came back from Ireland, which hasn't been easy. You see in Ireland, as a tourist, it was easy to get soft around the edges --- a whole lot of deep-fried food and
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