Those of you who know me best will be aware that I was always more of a guitar sing-song in someone's gaff with a few bevvies and a few mates type of guy and not one to go for the drug-induced euphoria of rave parties. But as any one of the hundreds of thousands of travellers who have made the pilgrimmage to Ko Phan Ngang since 1995 would tell you, Full Moon is no ordinary rave party. And despite my normal aversions to over-hyped DJs, house, dance and trance, I could only soup up the spectacle as I was, literally, party to this Wonder of the Backpackers' World. To get the full benefit of this mail, I'd suggest looking for the most funked up CD in your collection and turn up the sound full blast. The
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