Back in Mandalay, I change my plan of going further north to visit monasteries in Saging Hills. Instead, I'll go south to Bagan via Mount Popa with M. She laughs in the morning when I show up with my backpack ready for the 6-hour drive. Jokingly, she says that I'm just using her for a free lift and starts to call me “Leech". Travelling the back way to Bagan, through remote arid landscapes, we listen to more music and talk more about photography before arriving at Mount Popa a few hours later. This ancient hill is the remnant of a volcano with a monastery sitting on top. It’s also home to the 32 nat spirits of Myanmar. Who, it is said, travel between here and China. Nat worship is a cult unto itself. Of the hundreds
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