The Temples of Bagan


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Asia » Burma » Mandalay Region » Bagan
October 27th 2008
Published: November 27th 2008
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Bagan. Where do I start. This set of approximately 4000 Temples and Pagodas rivals only Angkor (Cambodia) for beauty. The temples which are now in all stages of decay were erected mostly from the 11th to 13th centuries A.D., when Bagan was the seat of the Myanmar dynasty.

We arrived here late evening after a long boat journy down the Ayeyarwaddy River from Mandalay. We both felt a bit sick as the weather ws much colder than what we have become accustomed too. Ended up spending our first day here relaxing and recooperating from the travel. Walked the town of Nyuang U a bit. Not really impressed. Very touristy place, obviously, but once again the food quality goes down in these areas and the price seems to go up. We ended up going back to the local places and hanging with them. No beer stations here that I could find either! What the hell?

Our first day of templing started late, as slept in. It happens. Got a horse cart for 8000 kyat ($7) for the day and started out. Only managed 7 temples that day as ended up looking and buying sand paintings and talking a lot with the Burmese people who were willing to talk of their government on top of temples where the police could not here them. So 7 temples down, only 3993 to go!

For a late lunch joined a family who my friends Derrick and Jillene had gotten to know 2 years previous. We had pictures for them and we were treated like gold. It's amazing the hospitality of the people here. They invited us back for dinner the next night as well. Long story, but at dinner found out this family and their little restaurant, their livelyhood, were being uprooted and forced to move. Imagine military coming to your door and saying "You have 5 days to move!" They care not where they go nor give reason. Just get out! So here our family, to be homeless in 4 days, having us for dinner, for which they would not accept any money for. However as gift from Derrick and Jillene and Joanna and I, we left them an envelope with enough USD for a years rent and a few years of school for 12 year old Pye Son. Hopefully they will get back on their feet. Not that you could even tell, as they were so high spirited. The hard part was when Pye Son asked us, "What do the soldiers do in your country?"

Our second day of Templing was a wet one to start off. Actually poured all night and drizzled on us till noon. The best was our young horse, pulling our cart, was afraid of puddles. He would run along until he reached a puddle then either dead stop, or try to jump over it, or my favourite, running our cart into 2 trees, 2 different times, just to avoid the water!! Poor fella. Had a decent day exploring temples, looking at murals, climbing temples for views, and yes more looking at temples. I think Angkor still stands high above Bagan, but the views of the palins here with temples dotting the horizon is really something beautiful to see.

Our third day touring here, hooked up with a Canadian Diplomat on vacation and shared taxi to Mt Popa. Mount Popa is also known as an extinct volcano and the adobe of the 37 nats or spirits. Very Holy Mountain and was a great drive out of Bagan. Small 20 minute climb up covered stairwell/monkey outhouse to the top! Yes monkeys everywhere and leaving presents for you to step in, in you bare feet of course, as no shoes allowed in temples. Great views from top of plains. Had lunch back in Popa town, Bought some weird fruit that the monkeys succeeded at stealing from us! Bastards! On ay home, stopped by ;ocal place where guy climbed up a palm tree to collect some pots. Also known as Toddy, they make this into palm juice, sugar, wine and whiskey. Quite good whiskey might I add! Even bought a little flask for sipping while we were there. Only $2.



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Photo 11

Our cart horse, who was terrified of water and puddles!


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