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Background: In 1959, three years before independence from Belgium, the majority ethnic group, the Hutus, overthrew the ruling Tutsi king. Over the next several years, thousands of Tutsis were killed, and some 150,000 driven into exile in neighboring countries. The children of these exiles later formed a rebel group, the Rwandan Patriotic Front (RPF), and began a civil war in 1990. The war, along with several political and economic upheavals, exacerbated ethnic tensions, culminating in April 1994 in the genocide of roughly 800,000 Tutsis and moderate Hutus. The Tutsi rebels defeated the Hutu regime and ended the killing in July 1994, but approximately 2 million Hutu refugees - many fearing Tutsi retribution - fled to neighboring Burundi, Tanzania, Uganda, and the former Zaire. Since then, most of the refugees have returned to Rwanda, but about 10,000 that remain in the neighboring Democratic Republic of the Congo have formed an extremist insurgency bent on retaking Rwanda, much as the RPF tried in 1990. Despite substantial international assistance and political reforms - including Rwanda's first local elections in March 1999 and its first post-genocide presidential and legislative elections in August and September 2003, respectively - the country continues to struggle to boost investment and agricultural output, and ethnic reconciliation is complicated by the real and perceived Tutsi political dominance. Kigali's increasing centralization and intolerance of dissent, the nagging Hutu extremist insurgency across the border, and Rwandan involvement in two wars in recent years in the neighboring Democratic Republic of the Congo continue to hinder Rwanda's efforts to escape its bloody legacy.




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We arrived into Kigali at night - again. Arriving into a major centre late isn't too bad, as there are always lots of taxi's waiting to take you anywhere. The trip from Kigoma was long as we had to change vehicles several times and of course had the usual delays. The border was easy to navigate, and the border guards friendly - YAY! The very next morning Mike was up early and had already visited the National Park office and found out that we could get three permits for two days later. When he came back we were just getting up, [View Full Entry]

pnltravels - Peter & Laini | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
946 Words | 6 Comment(s) | 20 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: November 23rd 2008 | 349 Views | [diary=345560]

The Main Silverback
Main Silverback
Main Silverback

By wanderingfeet
November 17th 2008
Memories of Rwanda Africa » Rwanda
Murambi Memorial Centre
Murambi Memorial Centre
This picture was taken from: http://www.kigalimemorialcentre.org/old/centre/other/murambi.html
It's been about 3 weeks since I last posted I think, quite a bit has happened since then, but in the interest of not making this entry overwhelmingly long, I figured I would split my thoughts up. First of all, back to Rwanda temporarily to talk about the Murambi Genocide Memorial Center. On my way back from Burundi to Kigali, I stopped in Butare so that I could go to this memorial. Butare was the original capital of Rwanda until it was moved to Kigali, and is now home of the largest university in Rwanda and the National Museum of Rwanda. [View Full Entry]

wanderingfeet - Journeys into the Unknown | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
743 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 2 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: November 17th 2008 | 99 Views | [diary=346000]

Memorial again

Faced with the prospect of several days on a bus, and several different buses at that, we'd taken the ‘flashpacker’ option and flown from Arusha in Tanzania to Kigali in neighbouring Rwanda. We’d barely left the airport before we started spotting differences - roads were quieter, streets were clean and roundabouts (they actually had roundabouts!!!) were covered with grass and flowerbeds. That and the way that minibuses at least from Kigali, ran to a schedule, departed on time (whether full or not!), required you to buy a ticket (which often had the price on it!) before getti [View Full Entry]

Willow - Wendy Smyth | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
1584 Words | 2 Comment(s) | 21 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: January 24th 2009 | 346 Views | [diary=359653]

Lake Kivu
Gorilla trekking, Rwanda
Gorilla trekking, Rwanda

So I think I spoke too soon a couple entries back on my way to Gisenyi about how lovely the bus rides were in Rwanda comparatively to other African countries. Because on hauling ass back to Kigali, I didn't bother with returning with the same bus company I came with to Gisenyi, Atraco, but instead just took the next available bus out of Gisenyi to Kigali which happened to be on Otracom Express. Otracom Express, at least the one I took, in short is a total shithole. The bus is not a small speedy minivan, but one of the larger tourbus [View Full Entry]

amyuyma - Amy | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
1390 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 0 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: November 1st 2008 | 322 Views | [diary=340561]


We had just over 10days in Rwanda and started by visiting the genocide memorials in and around the capital, Kigali. It might sound really macabre but having read a few books about the genocide over the last couple of years it's this that drew me to come here - and I'm really glad I did as despite the short time we had all in it ended up being one of my favourite African countries. The genocide followed the death of President Juvenal Habyarimana, a Hutu, when his plane crashed at Kigali airport under suspicious circumstances on 6 April 1994. Within hours [View Full Entry]

Willow - Wendy Smyth | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
1189 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 13 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: January 3rd 2009 | 284 Views | [diary=359576]

St Famille Church, Kigali
Inside the church at Nyamata
Inside the church at Nyamata

"Good luck...I would tell you to be safe but that seems pointless being that you are in the middle of Africa heading toward (instead of away) from rebel fighting and war.... " - Big Sturms, via email I have made my way now from Kigali in central Rwanda over way west to the town of Gisenyi. Gisenyi is rather nondescript and sits on the Rwanda/Democratic Republic of Congo border at the northernmost part of Lake Kivu, opposite the border from its DRC counterpart, the village of Goma which serves as the UN base for the war in the Congo. I come [View Full Entry]

amyuyma - Amy | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
1083 Words | 1 Comment(s) | 14 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: October 24th 2008 | 434 Views | [diary=337917]

countryside
Gisenyi
kids

I don't particularly enjoy writing "heavy" entries, but writing about Rwanda today and ignoring the fallout from the Genocide wouldn't paint for you an accurate picture but an incomplete one. Sometimes you peruse a museum lightly, glancing fleetingly at some exhibits and perhaps reading a plaque or two here and there, strolling through to see what the hype was all about. Sometimes though, you let yourself become totally engulfed in the pictures, you read every narration, you watch each film in its entirety, and you stare at every murdered face as if you had seen it somewhere in some life be [View Full Entry]

amyuyma - Amy | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
1983 Words | 3 Comment(s) | 0 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: October 23rd 2008 | 297 Views | [diary=337397]


You can never have too many African bus stories. Another African Bus... I board the bus to Rwanda rather satisfied with myself. I'm catching the 1AM overnight bus from Kampala to Kigali after having splurged a whole extra 10,000 shillings (equivalent to about 6USD, but that means a night in dorm housing in Africa as well) for the 1AM bus as opposed to paying just 20,000 shillings for the 3AM bus. I even booked early on in the day so I was sitting in Seat 7, second row opposite the driver - Score! (you know you've been in Africa for too [View Full Entry]

amyuyma - Amy | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
2021 Words | 1 Comment(s) | 3 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: October 21st 2008 | 253 Views | [diary=337047]

Photo 1
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Kigali
Kigali
Veiw from the Genocide Museum
Apologies for the long absence, I was in the DRC for the past 5 days and the internet there is abysmally slow and the charger for the laptop stopped working. Last Thursday was Yom Kippur and seeing as there are no synagogues in Kigali, I thought that going to the genocide museum would be a good place for reflection etc. The museum is really amazing and incredibly moving. It is split into three sections inside and then there are gardens outside and mass graves of about 250,000 people that overlook the city. The downstairs of the museum documents the history of [View Full Entry]

wanderingfeet - Journeys into the Unknown | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
614 Words | 1 Comment(s) | 10 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: October 19th 2008 | 92 Views | [diary=336121]

Kigali
Genocide Museum
Genocide Museum

After another couple of long, bumpy, hot, dusty, hand waving days on the truck it was time to cross the border into Rwanda. Everyone was on the gorilla countdown and getting excited about doing our trek to go and see the mountain gorillas in the wild, Dian Fossey styles. Rwanda is a stunningly beautiful country. It's really hilly and all the hills are lush and covered in crops, the people are super friendly, and it's difficult to believe the horrific genocide which took place there no much more than 10 years ago. We did a stop off in Kigali to visit [View Full Entry]

headinghome - Shelley Martin | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
559 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 0 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: October 13th 2008 | 52 Views | [diary=333919]