Day 30: Buffalo carts and fishing

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Geo: 15.875, 108.336

Another day hard at work from our Hoi An base. We have survived the salt infused lunch and after another hearty breakfast supervised by Twee we were met by Huan for our transfer and introduction to the entrepreneurial Tan, the hard working Jack and a spot of fishing and crabbing.

This morning's water buffalo ride was with the well credentialed Jack - apparently a local stud with many a hard working son and daughter in his lineage. Coupled the 8 seater cart to Jack and then dominated the road as we took on all comers in the traffic stakes and can I say with the impressive natural bull bar set that Jack had, we were unchallenged and unrivalled winners. Any part of the road was ours.

Ever eager to show off his fitness and stamina, Huan kept jumping off the cart and jogged along side for "fitness" - of course with his ever present smile and accompanied by a regular pat of his stomach indicating he didn't want to be a "happy Buddha!"

We needed to take a quick car ride in order to rejoin Jack. The rice paddies have started to turn in colour and we can easily identify the yellow ready to harvest crop and the brown dry heads of the rice. In the last 3 weeks of the crop, the water is drained from the field so that it dries out and the farmers can bring in the hand scythe or machine to complete the harvesting. We have repeatedly noticed the "crop circles" in the fields but have been reassured by everyone we have asked that this is the work of the wind rather than aliens or wallowing buffalo. (Do like our creative version much better - but given the repeated cries of slander, libel and misrepresentation ...I am a stickler for the facts.)

Jack was waiting for us on the side of the road and one by one we got to throw the leg over the water buffalo and take a ride. Well, the boys took the ride, Loraine and I, after much encouragement from Tan and Huan, opted for just "throwing the leg over." His back was so broad, his hide so clean and the skin was really bristley. With wide grins we thought we had tamed the mighty Jack, but he was so bored with our efforts all he did was munch on the grass.

On the ride to Tan's boat we were introduced to the first of his businesses, the Agritour. Tan has combined a serious s of "typical" experiences under his "Agritour" banner. He currently has two boats in his fleet, with an additional two under construction. The new additions will feature solar panels to provide the power he needs and to reduce the noise for his clients. Now 42 (and coincidentally hung over after the night before and in the "dog house"😉 he was previously a general manager at a five star hotel. That conversation in itself was interesting in that he described the management and middle management structure of over seeing the workers because of a tendency for employees to be slack, to make mistakes or to cheat the system. Made me think of @McPhees and their stories - looks like labour integrity is an international issue!

Anyway, long story short, despite offers from relatives overseas to "join them" in their businesses, Tan is committed to his own entrepreneurial energies. He did tell us of his newly built three storey house that he shared with his wife, two sons, mother and soon to be acquired 750cc motor bike. We had a picture of the family spreading out over the different levels of the building. We couldn't have been further from the truth. The first floor is home to all the aforementioned. Levels two and three and the lofted ceiling, are for the birds. Yes, literally, the birds.

The nests are made by a swiftlet using their saliva. Birds nests that contain blood ( well, ferrous materials actually) are even more highly prized. Tan described how the swiftlets repeatedly build the nests in EXACTLY the same spot. Not even a centimetre out! Once harvested, the birds return to the same spot and rebuild the nest. It is a fickle industry with houses being susceptible to disease.

Some Vietnamese say bird's nest being made of 70% protein, along with iron, potassium and magnesium, are medicinal - including keeping bodies youthful for decades. Need to find ourselves a stash of this stuff!

The nests are among the world's most expensive foods, selling for up to $2,500 US a kg (Tan and his sister harvest approximately 500 grams a week) and the swiftlets that weave them are indigenous to Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand and Vietnam. China consumes almost 90 percent of all bird's nests, traditionally eaten in soup, creating an industry that last year recorded $5 billion in sales and which executives expect to double by 2020. Go Tan. Think we want a share!

After the ear-bashing of a 30 minute boat trip (Tan's wife was not talking to him so think he needed the UNwilling ear of Mac ...who really just wanted to enjoy the scenery) we pulled up beside a boat with a husband and wife fishing team. After a number of demonstrations, they pulled alongside and we were able to have a go at casting the net. Luckily we didn't throw ourselves overboard and with varying degrees of success, we managed to pitch the net overboard in a reasonable resemblance of the lesson. All the locals got a good laugh at our expense and the ever patient fishing couple were very keen for us to get it right. Mac was declared the candidate with the most potential. Actually think he pulled a muscle in his side trying to impress.

We left the empty nets behind and headed for the island to try and save the day by bringing in a haul of sardines from the estuary. Lowered the net, visited the fisherman's working shacked, peddled the net in, rowed out in the basket boat and brought in the haul. About 1000 little tiddlers which the fisherman sold to Tan for 40 cents. Tan was going to take this home to his wife to marinate for fish sauce. Think it was his peace offering and apparently this gesture was better than perfume or flowers.

Our work was not done yet. Pulled into the fishing village to be greeted by a young basket boat owner and his uncle. Armed with a piece of bamboo, a fishing line and one small piece of shrimp, we found ourselves nestled in the coconut trees reeling in the "big" crabs. Patience yielded us a horde of pink and purple clawed crabs, each one that caught was accompanied by a loud cheer and the loudest cheer was saved for when we released these to the wild. And we were each presented with a piece of bamboo jewellery that was made by our guide - a necklace, a ring, earrings....and somehow Mac scored a pair of Mr Magoo glasses.

It was a paddling race back to the boat (LO_RI winners by a country mile) and lunch. We were expecting to meet Tan's wife who was supposedly coming on board to prepare lunch. But still in the dog house, Tan was left to prepare it solo (just a hint Tan, think you need to delete the picture of the girl friend of 20 years ago, who you couldn't "afford" to marry, and who is recently divorced and asked you to coffee, drinks and dinner!)

Lunch was another feast - fish, prawns, salad and fruit washed down with a cold beer. We actually felt we had worked for it!

It was a slow and cool cruise back to the delightful pool, cold drinks at the bar (clever Mac gulped half of one before he realised it was mine - scored one and a half drinks - clever ploy!) and air conditioning of the Anantara and another decision around which of the 1 000 eateries we should try for dinner.

Decided to go for pot luck and sauntered by the eateries and picked one just by name, Had definitely had a day that could be described as the "Bees Knees" so that's where we settled. English definitely a problem and dishes in all sorts of order, plus smoking French tourists and no air conditioning of course - but seriously, doesn't make a scrap of difference! Just eat drink and be merry.

Rest day tomorrow! Yahoo, absolutely no schedule!

Steps: 6 233
Temperature: 34 degrees
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Comments

[Fiona]

Hoi An is so lovely, after being in the busy cities. Mac could invest in the fishing business.....Fun times x

[Aunty Gail]

Gotta love Jack!!!! And the adventures & experiences just keep on comin'.....Well done team!.....I am so enjoying 'our' holiday!!....xxxx

[Elizabeth McPhee]

Sounds like Ross and Tan would have a lot to chat about!Love the bamboo "artistry"