Day 29: Floating in a bamboo basket

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Geo: 15.875, 108.336

Nothing like a dress up and a bit of a dig in the dirt! Spent the day grinning from ear to ear. Such simple things but so much fun. I think it is the general "feel" of Hoi An. The city is so relaxed and the people so friendly - there just isn't any stress.

The day always begins with a hearty breakfast and the ever present, softly spoken Twee has us nestled in at the best table in the second floor restaurant over looking the river. Not sure how we are going to go back to just fruit or fruit and cereal at home because we continue to tuck into the pho, the bacon and eggs any which way, the fruit platter, fresh cheeses, pate and cold cuts and the pastries. Today, at the pastry table, Mac discovered a Cronut (a chocolate covered combination of a croissant and a donut) and thanks to Twee and her husband (who owns the "stand"😉 Richard has been addicted to the pork bun. Death by gluttony!

No matter, Huan has sold us off today to work as organic farmers and chefs! We did our best but don't think we should give up our day job (for those of us who have them.)

Miou picked us up right on time, covered from head to toe in protective clothing. Miou had on a hooded jacket with her hands covered in the extended sleeves, long pants with stockings and shoes and a wide brimmed hat all to protect herself from "sun skin!" White skin is considered beautiful and when we shared stories of Australian girls going to tanning salons she was very amused and laughed and shook her head saying "That's silly."

The short drive though the back streets took us to the Co Co River, one of the four tributaries that converge onto Hoi An and make the city so vulnerable to flooding. The Thanh Dong Village is the first and only organic farm in Hoi An and it is sponsored by the government to ensure their products hit the local market at an affordable price. The community consists of 14 families who work together in their market garden producing every vegetable except rice. They have been "trained" by the scientists in rotating and raising their crops without the reliance on chemical fertilisers. Our 56 year old host Ga was keen for us to sample the ginger juice, the garlic juice and the chilli juice that they make as the pest sprays. We took a quick whiff - but that was as close as we got. Declined the taste and certainly declined the offer to rub it on as insect repellant - it was rancid!

Got our farmer's shirt, donned the conical hat and hit the fields.This was serious business and supervised by the smiling Ga we attacked the soil and perhaps the boys were a little over zealous because they each managed to snap the head off the hoes. The garden bed was raked, the poo was applied, the soiled turned over and then the Morning Glory was planted and watered the cuttings. A couple of wriggly lines of drooping Morning Glory was all we had to show for our efforts. Bet they ripped that out as soon as we turned the corner.

Next step was to harvest some of the makings. And armed with huge old rusty scissors Loraine and Mac snipped off the egg plants. We sampled a few of the herbs, enjoying their fresh fragrance and "tricked" by the grinning black-toothed Ga, had a little chew on the beetle leaf.

Armed with our bag of produce we continued our walk to the make-do jetty (a few pieces of crisscrossed bamboo) and boarded the basket boat for a leisurely row along the Co Co River to the restaurant and the cooking class. Have to say the farmers all look about 80 but are as strong as a water buffalo ( local contextual reference intended!) We made good progress all the while jockeying for boat position and although doing absolutely nothing we were drenched in a lather of sweat under the obligatory orange life jackets.

Made it safely ashore to a cool drink and a chef's costume. On the menu for us was the challenge of creating two dishes - Mango Salad with Shrimp and Crispy Eggplant Filled with Pork. Once we got past the "does my head look big in this" of the way too small hats and harnessing the ever expanding girths into the apron we couldn't resist a ninja/kungfu/samurai test of the oversized knives much to the amusement of our non English speaking chef. Had to get our laughter under control or we would have to take the "identify the male and female toilet challenge again! Have to give Loraine the Puzzle Queen badge again today for deciphering the squat toilet symbol.

The introduction to the class was to create a flower by their boy peeling a tomato (orange peel style) and then rolling for decoration. Poor Chef and Moui were beside themselves with the results of this simple tasks. But ever patient they resurrected the efforts and assembled them ready for the next step.

We chopped, diced, sliced, cubed and julienned with various levels of expertise and finesse and Loraine, who is a keen follower of the telly cooking shows, told us "not to give up our day jobs!"

We didn't lose any knuckles or cut fingernails so we considered it a success. Added sauces and spices and oodles of pepper and salt. but opted not to add salt. As Richard worked harder in the stifling heat, the sweat started to pool and run in streams from his face to land drip by drip into his bowl of carrot and onion. Needless to say it got a gross rating of 10 and an hilarity rating to match. That was until we realised we had to POOL the mixture into one batch! Not sure how Mac was going to cope with eggplant, tomato AND Richard's sweat but my appetite for the sweat infused mince stuffing was decidedly diminished.

We were counting on our pre trip probiotics to to save us and after a coating in breadcrumbs and a deep fry - if we weren't actually there to "know" what had happened you would almost think they looked good enough to eat. When you think about some of the dining experiences of the last month, Richard's extra dose of "natural salt" was probably inconsequential.

With a bit of dipping sauce, another cocktail and a pair of chopsticks we dived in and the UNANIMOUS verdict was they were "bloody beautiful." Much to our surprise, our two courses were just the starters and chicken, fish, stir fried Morning Glory, steamed rice and natural yoghurt rounded out the banquet.

Huan was at the hotel ready for the afternoon walking tour and what a relief that it was a little later in the afternoon. The day had been oppressively hot. We toddled around town for three hours and visited the local food and produce markets (the meat and seafood continue to be eye openers, especially in this heat) which are interspersed with the tourist shops that sell everything. Textiles and leather everywhere - not only remade but can be made on the spot - shoes, handbags, wallets, belts, dresses, shirts, suits. And every vendor offers to "copy" whatever it is you are wearing.

Thoroughly enjoyed the Hoi An cultural show with the usual combination of traditional music and dance and this time some opera and a game of bingo! Despite Mac being the "volunteer from the audience" to select the wing paddle, we didn't score any advantage and came away losers!

The narrow lanes at this time of the afternoon are scooter and car free, it was just a matter of making your way through the sea of other tourists, dodging the vendors and being careful not to find yourself in the middle of someone's wedding shoot on your guided walking tour. Huan took us to the old merchant's houses ( really family businesses trying to sell embroidery or Chinese coins and jewellery) with influences from Chinese, Japanese and Vietnamese architecture; the 400-year-old Japanese Covered Bridge (there was an entry fee to see the recreation and the water damaged photos) and the Assembly Hall of the Chaozhou Chinese Congregation with outstanding wood carvings (and was wall to wall with a Chinese tourist delegation.)

Last stop of the day was Yaly, shop number 1 (they have four) upmarket tailor and leather specialists. The foyer is festooned with silk worm cocoons and a loom and there are dozens of women swarming the floor to help you design either clothing or accessories. Materials line the second floor, stacked from floor to ceiling in different textures and colours. Catalogues are stacked on tables. All you have to do is pick and choose and create your very own fashion statement. Not sure if it were the time of day or the heat, but seriously we had no energy left to match the enthusiasm of the consultants. Best we could come up with was an order fro two leather belts from Richard. With repeated assurances that they were real leather, the order was placed. Maybe tomorrow.

Time for another float in a boat. This time a'very welcomed hour's cruise away from the hustle and bustle and heat of the central city. We boarded the old motorised boat and were the only passengers for our cruise along the Bon River perfectly timed to allow us to enjoy the setting sun. It was so quiet and peaceful and there was a slight breeze so we settled back for the ride.

Of course, saw the rice paddies, water buffalo, the enormous wallowing pigs and herds of cows; watched the birds and got the river view of the local homes. Everyone was busy with some form of preparation- either cooking for the evening or preparing the boat and nets for the night's work. And so much evidence of "resort" construction. Land was reclaimed, islands were being re shaped and buildings were sprouting up like mushrooms for the investors. When asked if there were enough tourists to warrant the construction, Huan said it was "all about the investors." I guess it is a "build and they will come" approach.

We were delivered right to our back door of the hotel. And who would have thought that was even possible because our boat master had turned over the helm to Mac. With a little help from multiple front seat and back seat drivers, he skilfully (according to him) navigated us through the narrow channels, through the tricky one metre deep section, by the fishing boats and around the fishing nets while dodging wallowing water buffaloes. What a natural! Skilfully guided and nudged along by the master and his apprentice, the boat was able to pull into a make do jetty right under the table we had dined at the previous evening. How convenient.

Our dinner plans were sorted. We had stumbled across a steak house on our walk the previous evening and we were keen to have a simple steak. A bit tricky to get the specifics of the order finalised and certainly a garlic bread like no other, but in a few dries and drabs the order finally filtered through and a good old Aussie eye fillet and tenderloin (with obligatory chips) was demolished. After all, it was some five hours since we had completely ravaged our last five courses!

There are a set of scales in the Anantara and we have deluded ourselves into accepting their very favourable reading. According to these little digital delights we have only gained a kilo - think we will be in for a rude awakening on our return home. (Censored comment to follow - may be upsetting to some: On reflection, there is a chance that the scales are accurate, because collectively, we are $h1tt1ng up a storm here!)

Steps: 9 534
Temperature: 36 degrees and 86% humidity

PS Voted "best experience day" - we had a ball!
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Comments

[Aunty Gail]

Very impressed with the gardening & cooking skills girls & boys!! And can clearly see why you all love Hoi An.....what a great day you have had.....amazing experiences!....xxxxx