Day 11: Farewell Dinner and a debt that's settled

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Geo: 12.1392, 104.566

Hard to believe this was the last day on the river. The days have drifted by in a blur of muddied water, local people, history and of course the comatose state has been heightened by the food and drink.

Today's small boat ride had us leaving the Mekong and taking a tributary to look at the floating village of the Vietnamese. Stretching for a total of 1.5 kilometres on each side of the river, these families are living a hand to mouth existence. They are illegal immigrants in Cambodia and can never own land so have taken up residence on an assortment of craft floating on bamboo poles. It is hard to imagine what this might look like in the wet season when the water rises and rages.

Peter shared that the families in this community usually have around 7 children and the life expectancy is 47 years of age. The boats are moored side by side. The bathroom is evident in the corner of each "houseboat." Effluent pools directly into the river. Water is scooped back onto the boat for cooking, cleaning and drinking.

The river was dotted with boats as the fishermen crossed backwards and forwards invariably with a child or a woman at the oar while the man cast the net. We saw dozens of boats and throws but did not see one catch although spotted many dead floating fish in amongst the hyacinth. This routine is repeated daily and the goods are taken to the markets further up the river.

There was so much to see on the river. Everyone appeared busy and purposeful. But according to Peter, without education and opportunity, this was a cycle of poverty that couldn't be broken. The history of Cambodia with its constant threat to borders, culture, beliefs and even livelihood has meant there have been constant political undertones in the commentary and there was evidence of a deeply cynical mistrust of government and motive and an endemic divide between Vietnamese and Cambodian peoples.

There was a strong, unpleasant smell that pervaded the air as we made it ashore at Kampong Chhnang where the Cambodians live close to the river in an assortment of stilt houses. (Mac was not smiling, so I ruled him out of the equation this time.) The markets were once again filled with raw meats, shell fish and fish and the stalls sat in the dirt or in puddles of mud. There were clothing shops right next to the mechanic who shared a stall wall with the petrol salesman or the baker.

There was a 100 day anniversary of a relative's death happening in a huge decorative tent. Dozens of people were gathered for the ceremony that was lead by the chanting monks.

This was the last boat trip of the cruise and I do think we were unanimous in our eagerness to return to the ship and leave Kampong Chhnang behind. It was definitely the most choked with rubbish that we had seen. There doesn't seem to be a real plan to deal with the plastic bag and disposable container culture that is sweeping a Cambodia that is coming in contact with the west.

Back on board for the usual on deck drinks and lunch and we were rewarded with an afternoon of choice! And I am happy to say I chose "nothing" and "packing."

It is great that you don't need to be in each other's pockets all of the time. Richard and Mac opted for the educational classes this afternoon and took in the lecture on Cambodia from Peter. They reported that it was excellent and used superlatives such as fascinating and memorable and I did ask them for a summary for the blog and have included it between parenthesis below.

" "

Yep, I got absolutely NADA from my guest bloggers!

It's okay, because they followed this up with napkin folding class and Loraine and I are living in hope that we will see the benefits of this class at some time in the near future. Never too late to enhance your skill set and be able to create napkins shaped like candles, boats or shirts. Come to think of it, I'd be grateful if Mac could transfer the skill set to folding the washing as it comes off the line at home. I live in hope 😊.

We did need to put on our glad rags this evening. Joined all the guests in The Saigon Lounge for the Captain's Farewell Cocktail Party. Eric introduced each member of the crew and it was great to acknowledge the contributions of everyone. Feeling a little guilty now over our towel consumption. Have just been introduced to the SINGLE worker n the laundry. Oops. Reserved our especially long claps for Leah and our butler Sam.

The best part of the evening was "the settling." Richard is two from two! Two bets for two losses. One with Mac. One with me. Maybe it's a guy thing and bets are made in jest, but I was adamant that I was going to collect. I reminded Richard 200 times over 6 days that he owed me $5 - there was no shirking. He tried the good old double or nothing trick and attempted to laugh off paying up (definitely not out loud though!). But, demanding photographic evidence, the bets were settled graciously, with an audience. I pocketed Mac's fiver as well and am going to splurge it in the markets. The bank of Richard definitely pays better odds than the poker machines. I could be cured.

Just a shame that "ShutupPhil" took it upon himself AGAIN to play the silence police shushing everyone who whispered a comment while yacking his way through the 30 minutes of Eric's presentation. He has a running death stare game going with Donna and Howard. I guess "ShutupPhil" and"TooHotTooWet" ....and perhaps "9andahalfweeks" .... are the only ones out of 102 that we avoid.....with three decks, three bars and two dining rooms, we have plenty of choice.

We did have a long list of jobs from TOOLong to complete today including part one of a feedback form that came with a dose of the guilts because the crew's bonus depends on the ratings of the guests. No complaints from us, we have appreciated and enjoyed it all. Had plenty of time to settle the bill, reclaim our passports and somehow re-stuff our belongings into the suitcases. We are ready for the early departure tomorrow morning. Have got a 6 hour bus ride in the luxury airline seats of the 5 star bus - with two 3 star toilet stops. I wonder what that will be like?

Steps: 3 672
Temperature: 31 degrees

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Comments

[Elizabeth McPhee]

Shane to end the cruise, it all sounded wonderful. Except for the gloating village at the end - how sad. Makes you think about our very fortunate lives.Good to see the Vegemite seems to be reducing? Or is that just an illusion. I would
hope it's being used.

[Aunty Gail]

Your experiences with the river cruise have certainly sparked our interest!Of course the unpacking & packing just once is always a winner, not to mention the mouthwatering meals you have relentlessly devoured......everything looks so y
ummy! Looking forward to your new adventures tomorrow!....xxxxx