Day 10: A buddhist blessing in royal capital

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Geo: 12.1392, 104.566

The river now is almost a muddy pond. Definitely doesn't seem to be running as fast and there is a very slight "muddy" odour in the air. The river is busy though, with the main highway never far away and even at the earliest hour, there is movement on the river and on the highway. The windows of the AMA Lotus were fogged up this morning and the hand rails of the balcony were dripping with water. It had rained over night and the sky was blanketed in grey.

Thought I was onto the "Yeah it's April" thing but didn't have my radar up for April fool's and certainly got myself in a knot over the poached versus scrambled thanks to Richard. It is the first time that I have heard Richard laugh out loud on the trip. He was so pleased with himself! But let's not forget, I am still $5 up in the betting stakes. Speaking of betting - the phone was a constant today as results filtered through from the meets in Australia.

The thunder rumbled threateningly and despite being "uncharacteristically wet for the dry season", according to guide Ken, the rain continued to fall throughout the morning. It was bizarre how quickly the low lying areas began to fill with water and the red earth turned to a slippery mud.

The disembarkation from the AMA Lotus at Prek K'dam this morning was via a muddy series of steps that the crew had cut in the bank earlier in the morning and the open pasture was complete with a cow and a volleyball court! Definitely needed the clodhopper boots and the umbrellas.

Spent about 30 minutes in the bus and the views of the stilt houses, the markets and the rice fields were obscured by the consistent fall of heavy rain although Peter described it as light rain.

The destination this morning was Oudong, the royal capital of Cambodia from 1618 till 1866. We are only 35 kms north of Phnom Penh but certainly in a more rural district. There are rice fields, Lotus ponds, lots of scrawny cattle, remnants of monasteries, funerary stupas and loads of rubbish. Perhaps the most jumbled collection of debris that we have seen. The marketeers were out in force but this time it wasn't the goods that caught the eye - it was the innovative solutions of diverting water as it poured from the ramshackle collection of timber, tin and tarps that made up the roof line. But nobody seemed worried. And when asked a number of times by group members if Peter thought it was going to be wet, his nonchalant response was a statement of the obvious, "it's rain." This typified the attitude of "acceptance" of the people we have met - there is no point in railing against what cannot be changed.

The contrast between the homes of the people and the Buddhist Monastery is stark. VipassanaDhura is the largest monastery in Cambodia and is a new large temple that serves as a Buddhist study centre and is home to some 400 monks draped in various shades and lengths of orange, (but no nuns) cared for by hordes of lay nuns with shaven heads and draped in white garbs.

Peter spent 4 years in a monastery while he was studying in Phnom Penh and had many insights to share on the life and commitment of e monks and nuns. A man can devote himself to Buddha as a monk for a single day, a week, a month, for years or for a lifetime. The 270 rules around a man's commitment allow him to "come and go" and attend to his "business" but the 311 rules for females mean that once a woman joins a nunnery it is a commitment for life.

Certainly Peter didn't share the 100s of rules but he did outline the non negotiables for all Buddhists. These precepts can be expressed in positive or (negative) terms:
1. Act with loving kindness (don't kill living things)
2. Be open hearted and generous (Abstain from taking that which is not given)
3. Practice stillness, simplicity and calmness (abstain from sexual misconduct)
4. Speak with truth, clarity and peace (abstain from false speech)
5. Live with mindfulness (abstain from false substances that confuse the mind eg alcohol and drugs)

When reading through the gems, the vows, the noble truths, the eight fold path, the precepts (quoted above), the paramita, the uplifted states, the spiritual faculties, the hindrances, the frames of mindfulness and the universal properties - I envy the journey.

The AMA. Lotus group of 100+ assembled in the temple for the blessing. The 15 minutes of chanting and showering with jasmine buds, bestowed longevity, prosperity and happiness on the group. The closer you were to the monks, the more blessings you received. And we were warned not to brush the jasmine away as that carried the blessing. LO_RI and Mac were right up close and I was snuggled in behind Mac who acted as my personal jasmine bloom shield. Everyone was in various shapes of uncomfortable as knees and hips creaked and groaned attempting a gentle landing. And it was complicated because you couldn't point your feet towards the monks. Loraine and Mac spent fourteen and a half minutes in pain trying to avoid hip and leg cramp. But other than that, it was relaxing 😉 .

Somehow, with hands reverently clasped and eyes pressed closed in concentration we managed to chorus the appropriate response and the monks were generous in their blessing as we were all brought back to the present with a shower of recycled buds to the back of the head!

Peter made the offering to the monks and specified what the donation could be used for and then a crew of three children armed with straw brooms giggled their way through sweeping up the jasmine buds and collecting them in pots ready for the next group to be blessed.

Next stop was the ox carts. Yep, 100 beasts tethered in pairs to wooden ox carts. It was just a matter of dodging the children and the bamboo flowers on offer, picking your beast of burden and then slinging in to the "back seat." With the thunder rolling, the rain pouring and a wet cow's nose approaching at speed it was an experience. Actually, once you managed to sit up and hold on, the wooden and iron wheels clanging through the mud and over the bitumen provided a primitive version of a butt massage. A shame about the run off from the umbrella that managed to pool itself in the groin. Some of the children ran along beside the carts for the 2 kilometre journey back to the boat and impressed with tiny Pak's stamina, Richard felt compelled to reward him with a tip which instantly attracted more children like bees to a honey pot.

Wet and cold we lined back up on the muddy steps in the pouring rain, re-living everyone's personal cow stories with the biggest laughs reserved for stories of lifted tails, manure and urine.

Lunch and a big afternoon of rest and relaxation interspersed with massage, manicure or pedicure for the three spa junkies. Richard chose zzzzzzs over Linh squatting on his back in the massage room or Tranh snipping the dead skin from his feet or nails. Doesn't know what he's missing.

The food continues to amaze. Every choice prepared to perfection and so much variety. If you don't want to try the specialities of the day there is always a "standby" list of options. Can't believe it but I rejected the specials tonight that included duck or fish and opted for a sirloin steak! Melt in the mouth DELICIOUS but apparently the duck and vegetarian dish were even better!

Entertainment tonight was provided by the crew. Each "team" presents a talent pool for the comp - housekeeping, restaurant etc and it is judged by three passengers. Seriously, no talent in the talent show line up but absolutely fun because of the effort in choreography and props and a deliciously irreverent commentary from the judges. Housekeeping with their toilet seat air guitar, toilet roll movie camera and a range of additional musical instruments took out the champion's trophy.

As Loraine remarked tonight, despite the "maturity" of the group, everyone is having a go. It doesn't matter what the activity, all the guests are participating in the best way they can. There were certainly some interesting approaches to the kneeling for the blessing and the loading of the ox carts. The only wrinkle in the blanket really, is the very loud, and I mean bellowing loud, voice of a single man who manages to verbalise a complaint with everything - for him it seems to be too fast, too slow, too long, too short, too hot, too cold and today of course it was too muddy and too wet. For us, too close, too many times - we are avoiding him.

We are up at 5 and then close the doors on 301 and 311 at 11 pm. After 10 days at this pace we were reviewing the itinerary at dinner to see when the " holiday" begins. Guess we can only just keep on eating....and drinking....to build up our strength.

Steps: 6 125
Temperature: a mild 31 degrees with HEAVY and persistent rain

PS Had a little slip in the shower and asked reception for a hot water bottle or a heat pack for my knee. Guess what I got? Yep, a plastic drink bottle filled with boiling water. Did the trick though. I

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Comments

[Aunty Gail]

Well, I loved our day today - glad you didn't let the rain 'dampen your spirits'!!! Can only imagine what fun the ox cart ride was!Good idea to stay right away from 'Mr. Whinger' (there's always one!)Hope the magic hot water bottle did the
trick (hilarious!!)

[Lynda]

So love reading your posts ?? Feel like I am there with you. Don't eat too much!! Says me tucking into the Gin and Tonic! Thank goodness holidays are calorie free eh!