Torre Argentina etc.

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Geo: 41.8955, 12.4823

I have been here for 7 days now and am starting to get into the swing of being here for more than a few days. First, I realize that I don't have to cram a lot into a single day so have gotten into easing into the day with coffee and a stroll into my neighborhood and then decide where to go.
I like this area more each day that I am out and about. Some people are starting to recognize me – the lady at the market and the nice man in Carrefour, a lovely store that carries all kinds of yummy things and has a coffee bar. In Rome you drop in for a quick espresso or cappuccino and stand at the bar to drink it. No lolly-gagging over a gigantic coffee ala Starbucks. It is very social – hardly anyone takes out their cell phones while having coffee. Don't you love it???

Last week, I did a tour of the Coliseum – how many times can you possibly want to visit the Coliseum, one might ask, but every time I do this, I see something that has been recently opened to the public and learn something more about the history of this incredible place. Today I visited the home of Octavius, the first Emperor of Rome and the apartments of his third wife, Livia. This area has been under excavation for several years and is just recently open for special tours. It was incredible to see. The frescos are still quite brilliant after 2000+ years and are carefully protected by being enclosed and with limited access to the public.

I then walked along the "Imperial Way" which has several statues of emperors and goes along the complete ruins of the Forum and Trajan's Market/Piazza. This is one of the many things I love about Rome – walking along and another ancient ruins is just there!

A few days ago, I wondered over to the Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain then over to the Pantheon and Piazza Navrona – these are all “must see” when you visit Rome and I like to go every time I am here.

I am taking the subway with few mishaps. First day, I exited out of my subway stop without realizing there were several options to exit. Found myself in an area that was not familiar but it was still light so I just wandered around until I got my bearings and figured out where I was. Those of you who know me well, will understand that this is not an easy task. I am directionally impaired and this can be very challenging but I have learned if you persevere, it is worth it. NO GPS involved!!!!

I am without Wi-Fi in my apartment right now so am very limited to the amount of time I can spend online. This is supposed to be fixed by Wednesday. Fingers crossed….

Jan 11

Took subway to Barberini Station/Piazza Barberini – Triton Fountain & Fountain of the Bees. Then Conventi dei Frati Cappuccini – home of the Capuchin Monks – incredible museum plus the macabre crypt with bones and skeletons of past monks and various rich families of Rome. A bit creepy but glad I went as it is another example of the incredible history of this part of the world. There is a Caravaggio here – St. Francis in Meditation – which I hadn't yet seen. Caravaggio's are in various places in Rome and I am on a mission to see them all.

About the Capuchin Monks http://www.capuchin.com/index.php/spiritandlife2

Three centuries after St. Francis, a number of Franciscan friars wanted to live as the founder envisioned; they wanted to observe the original Rule and ideals. Devoting themselves to prayer, penance and preaching, the friars also heroically served the poor, sick and dying. In 1528 Pope Clement VII gave them permission to form a new community of Franciscan friars. They soon became known as "Capuchins" because many Italian children called them "cappuccini" for the large hoods of their habits. Overcoming opposition from some of their former superiors and enduring great trials, the Capuchins soon won the hearts of ordinary people. "They were alive with a spiritual life which was in touch with the fundamental needs of the human spirit of their time." The same historian observes that the Capuchins began as a "revolt against the secularism and conventionalism" which permeated society and even the Church. The Capuchins recaptured the fervor and original vision of St. Francis. These friars and those who followed had a reputation for austerity, holiness and a solidarity with the poor and common people. Today there are 11,000 friars world-wide, with rapid growth in Africa, Asia and South America, and a resurgence in the United States.

I then headed out to explore and came upon an area up towards the Borghese museum I had yet to walk. I will go back because I was curious to see what was “downhill” from there so went that way instead. I finally made it to San Luigi dei Francesi to get a good look at the 3 Caravaggio's there. I was almost alone in this church so had lots of time to just stand and look at these amazing works of art. They are usually mobbed with people and it is hard to get a good look. Headed over to Campo di Fiori to check out the market. It has changed over the years. It used to be truly a local farmers market but now it is filled with tourist-y stuff that is not very authentic at all. Very disappointing but the area is still fun to walk around. Stopped at Caffé Farnese for lunch. Still a place where elderly Italian ladies lunch. After a good pasta meal and wine I headed back in the direction of the Spanish Steps to get to a subway station for home. I wasn't quite ready to head back so stopped at Babington's Tea Room for dessert. This is right at the Spanish Steps and I have never been in before. It is a lovely respite for tea or coffee (they make really good coffee) and a yummy dessert.

On Torre Argentina, a very busy commercial street, you unexpectantly come upon an excavated ruin. This turns out to be the site of Julius Caesar 's murder and is now used as a cat sanctuary. The ladies in the area were upset by tge sick and starving stray cats so tgey started feeding them. It is now officially a hone for wayward cats. Donations of money and kitty care keep it operational. This is one of the many things I love about being in Rome. Everywhere you walk, you walk on history and can see incredible art and ancient architecture.

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Photos

Spanish Steps
Fountain at foot of the step steps.

Mausoleum built by Augustina
Wife of Emperer Antonius

Comments

[Lara]

You are making me miss Rome!! Thanks for giving us a peak into your life as a Roman. I'm going make myself an espresso and imagine I'm there too!

[Nancy Marx]

Oh, I can taste that amazing pasta now! I'm envying every moment of your trip. You need to take selfies so we can also see you in front of these amazing sites. Hope your Italian is getting better each day.

[Leona French]

I love how you are approaching this stay. We find that living in an area makes the life of the "real" people so much more obvious and enjoyable to share. Ciao!

[Cynthia Rosen]

Belissimo! Enjoy that coffee - do you think you can find that little corner place where we got those amazing cookies?!!

[carolesblog]

I have found it and have already bought some stuff there!C.