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Published: June 16th 2017
Geo: 41.8955, 12.4823
The next few days:
The weather has been "iffy" – rain, intermittent rain, etc., etc., so I have used the time to plan some things. I went to the Termini Station and bought my tickets for Florence and figured out the best way to access Vatican City for my tour of the Scavi – the tombs below St. Peters. I also booked a ticket to hear “The Three Tenors” at All Saints Anglican Cathedral – not sure which three tenors will be there but I don't really care. So, I have some things planned.
Sat., Jan 14, I headed over to the Vatican. There is new security, not surprising, and it is actually quite well thought out. One way in, one way out. Much easier to manage for the military and Polizia vs. the way it used to be which was all over the place. I actually think this makes it easier for tourists as well because it clear where you should be for where you want to go. It was a beautiful sunny day so wondering around was spectacular. I didn't go into St. Peter's because I will be back on Monday but the line was moving quite well
for access to the Basilica. Saturday is not really a big day for tourists typically because it is often the day many arrive or leave. In general, Rome is less busy at this time of year except in the peak areas like the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain but even these hot spots can be visited without much hassle.
Monday, Jan 16
Visting the Vatican Necropolis (Scavi)
This site is often mistakenly referred to as the “tombs” but that term is more accurate for the Papal Tombs which are also below St. Peters and, as it turns out, when you complete the necropolis tour you end up in the area of the Papal Tombs. The necropolis dates back to Imperial times and is an amazing excavation below the current St. Peters Basilica. It is mostly tombs of “common” people who had enough money to buy burial crypts but the last tomb is the tomb of St. Peter. This has been verified by many esteemed archeologists who have done decades of work to excavate and prove this is, in fact, the site of
St. Peters tomb. Of course, it is well known that the original basilica (built by Constantine I) and the
current “second” basilica are here because this was always believed to be the site of where St. Peter was buried. The site is quite remarkable and well worth a visit. You have to make reservations directly with the Vatican's Excavation Office (Scavi) by fax or email – include your full name, how many people will be in your party, language of choice and the dates you will be in Rome. At very busy tourist times, i.e. June – September, you will need to book months in advance. In January, it is much faster. I got a reply email with my day and time in a few hours.
Details: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vatican_Necropolis
Interesting factoid: The ancient obelisk that stands in the center of St. Peters Square was found in this ancient area which was originally above ground but buried by debris removed to build the first basilica. Excavation of the area occurred from 1940-1949 and undertaken at the request of Pope Pius XI who wanted to be buried as close as possible to Peter the Apostle.
Photos are not allowed so you will have to check out the link to see what the area looks like.
Tuesday, Jan. 17
Today, I headed out to revisit Santa Maria della Vittorio which is the church that houses the incredible Bernini sculpture – the Ecstasy of Saint Teresa. This church and sculpture feature prominently in Dan Brown's Angels and Demons. This is the “fire” location for those of you who may be followers of the Path of the Illuminati ala Dan Brown. Anyway, Bernini was an absolute genius artist and you really have to see this sculpture to understand how amazing it is, on its own, separate from its religious significance. The two central sculptural figures of the swooning nun and the angel with the spear derive from an episode described by Theresa of Avila, a mystical cloistered Discalced Carmelite reformer and nun. Her experience of religious ecstasy in her encounter with the angel is described as follows:
“I saw in his hand a long spear of gold, and at the iron's point there seemed to be a little fire. He appeared to me to be thrusting it at times into my heart, and to pierce my very entrails; when he drew it out, he seemed to draw them out also, and to leave me all on fire with a great love of God. The pain was so great, that it made me moan; and yet so surpassing was the sweetness of this excessive pain, that I could not wish to be rid of it. The soul is satisfied now with nothing less than God. The pain is not bodily, but spiritual; though the body has its share in it. It is a caressing of love so sweet which now takes place between the soul and God, that I pray God of His goodness to make him experience it who may think that I am lying.”
When you see the expression on her face, this statement comes to life.
From here I headed to the Baths of Diocletian and the National Gallery of Rome – this is a massive site and museum that could easily take several hours to cover. The baths are the largest of the imperial baths in Italy. These were named after Emperor Diocletian's Baths and built from 298 to around 306. It never ceases to amaze me that these buildings still exist and some in very good condition. These were public baths and many exist in the area of Rome. They were originally commissioned by Maximium and continued after his and Diocletian's abdication under Constantius, father of Constantine.
The bath complex take up about 30 acres. The entrance and rooms were huge and the scale is quite evident in the way the ruins have been “displayed.” There are ruins from the existing baths but the museum has been constructed to make you feel and see via videos what it would have looked like. Amazing! The Romans really knew how to relax.
Some of the building were converted to churches over time and these remain today. Also, the National Roman Museum is housed within the complex and this is also incredible to visit. There is a central courtyard lined with announcements in stone tablets from emperors over time – Titus, Caligula, Nero etc., all announcing the upcoming spring festival. This was a pagan festival of celebrating new life. While you are wandering around the courtyard there is audio of the pagan chants making it a surreal experience. The rest of the museum is chock full of art and sculpture of ancient Rome.
Since I started the day at one of the sites featured in Angels and Demons, I decided to end the day at another one, the Piazza del Popolo (Earth). I knew the church would be closed
– all religious sites close from about 12:30p – 3 or 3:30p for lunch but I wanted to see the Leonardo Da Vinci museum so it didn't matter what time I got there. This is a “must see” if you come to Rome. The exhibit has working examples of the myriad inventions by this incredible man and the best part is you can play with them!!!
January 18-20 – Florence
On Wednesday morning I took the train to Florence. The relatively new fast trains make it only about 1 ½ hours so super easy. Unfortunately the weather was ugly. It was cold with a bitter wind so the days there were not great. The good news is my hotel was literally down the street from Piazza del Duomo and right next door to Basilica of San Lorenzo so I didn't have much walking to do. Florence is a beautiful little city and well worth a return visit when the weather improves. I might go back while I am here but, if not this time, I will go back. I went to the Galleria dell'Accademia home of David. The entire gallery is wonderful and besides seeing the Collosus (David), the “slave” sculptures that line the long gallery are fascinating and give a lot of perspective on why Michelangelo is believed to be the greatest sculpture of all time and why he was followed and studied by many other incredible artists.
There is also a fascinating music museum housed here. This array of about 50 instruments is the Grand Ducal collection. There are violins, including a couple of Stradivari's, violas, cellos, harpsicords and some wind instruments. The original oval spinetta created by Bartolomeo Christoferi, the inventor of the piano, is here.
Grand Prince Ferdinand was the patron of the musicians who created and used this instruments in his court. He was the eldest son of Cosimo III de Medici and never wanted to take over from his father whom, apparently, he detested. He lived his life surrounded by music and the luxuries of life as a Medici.
As I mentioned, because of how cold it was, I didn't do as much in Florence as I would have liked but, honestly, I was happy to leave. Getting on to a warm train and heading into the sunshine felt really good. I felt like I was “home” when we pulled into Roma Termini.
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![The courtyard with the "voices"](http://photos.travelblog.net/371646/973312/t/9224066-the-courtyard-with-the-quot-voices-quot-0.jpg "The courtyard with the "voices"")
Nancy Marx
non-member comment
What a fabulous itinerary! Love that you are getting to leisurely see these as a resident. I gasped when I saw David and still long to see it again. Did you notice any of the restoration they are doing on David given that he is leaning? Let
us know how your Italian lessons are progressing. Ciao.