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Published: August 27th 2015
Ian and Sue and Me
On the bridge of the village Kevin and I had been to last time.We rolled into St Pierre-Toirac, our house in the Dordogne, on Monday afternoon, being greeted by our lovely hosts, Gisella and Jacky, who showed us around, gave us information and wine, and left us to our own devices. The village, though not very big with only a cafe-cum-bar-cum-bakery (which closed on the 7th for the month) has a wonderful old (12th century) church whose bells are rung at 7 am, noon, and 8 pm. We're here in the area for 10 days, so Tuesday we spent driving and getting to know the area. Driving along the Lot river is a treat, with many small villages built into the sides of the walls above the river. The main town near us was Figeac, and all roads led there. We went to the supermarket and got supplies, including, but not limited to, stinky cheese and pate. Croissants and the ever-present baguette....we decided we wanted to come back to a couple of villages, but knew that we had to get there early, before the tourists.
Wednesday was the designated day for that, so up we got early to head out the door to St Cirq Le Popie, http://www.francethisway.com/places/stcirqlapopie.php ( a "plus
Millefuille at Le Truffe Noir
Isn't it pretty? It was good, too! http://www.thefork.com/restaurant/la-truffe-noire/19248 beau village de France"), and arrived there at 9:30 am, before the heat and the tourists set in. Up the hill from the parking, we immediately headed for coffee and a croissant. I have started drawing wasps wherever I go these days - not sure why - so they were a bit of a nuisance. After finishing breakfast we went on a walk around the old town which really is lovely. Kevin took off to the top of the castle, while I had a look in the saffron museum. Yes, saffron was a thriving industry in the Lot valley once upon a time, and they are trying to revive it. https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=sojL2e7xHJgC&pg=PT279&lpg=PT279&dq=saffron+in+lot+valley&source=bl&ots=t1tvqt_21P&sig=1Ud2EbgxfuzYzXGnx8jiL5ur6ak&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CCsQ6AEwBWoVChMIoIm_7f2txwIVBL0aCh3ZQgVa#v=onepage&q=saffron%20in%20lot%20valley&f=false
We also stopped at chateau Toirac, which is in the slow process of being restored. Although the tour was in French, the guide wanted to practice her English on Kevin and me, and was able to answer many questions I had about the history of the chateau. I admire the tour guides who are willing to take this task on, as I am very inquisitive and want to know everything! Another place that is a hidden treasure..... http://www.chateautoirac.com
Another place on Kevin's list to visit
A Lot Valley village
So many of the towns in the Lot and the Dordogne valleys are built into the side of the rocks, one prettier than the last. This is just one of many pictures taken in the valley. was Rocamadour. As this was on the way to our Groupon lunch, we decided to stop in and have a look. Though it is lovely, I found it a bit of a "Carcasonne wanna-be". We tried to look past the commercialism, and the tourist shops, and looked at the church instead...or tried. But there were so many people, and it was difficult. Luckily, there is a Petit train that takes you from the parking to the town. I also recommend visiting possibly in October, when there are less people. Our Groupon coupon took us to lunch at Le Pont de l'ouysse. http://www.lepontdelouysse.com/hotel-restaurant/en. The restaurant had a Michelin star, and, though it was more than we usually spend, the food and presentation was lovely. Of course, the dessert was a hit for me. Make sure you look at the pictures.
Friday was our day to learn everything we could about raising geese for foie gras. We found a farm that offered a free two-hour tour of the farm and production. From hatching (we saw four-day old goslings) to final feedings before killing, we learned, or saw, everything for the production. I will post no offensive pictures for you
St Cirq la Popie
Kevin standing in front of yet another Plus Beaux Village de France who are squeamish...it was all in French, so all we got were dates, but a picture is worth a thousand words....
Saturday brought some much-appreciated rain, but not before we were able to go to the weekly market in Figeac, picking up supplies for Sue and Ian's arrival tomorrow. Chicken, potatoes, cheese, fruit. A bit of marketing at the super marche and then home before the rain.
Sunday found us driving 2.5 hours to Bergerac to the airport to pick up our friends, Sue Royston and Ian Binks, who were coming in from London for 4 days. Much driving was involved during their visit, but it all revolved around food, so was worth it. Monday we were on the road to Roquefort, for cheese. Before getting there, though, we got the chance to go over the Millau bridge ( http://about-france.com/millau-viaduct.htm) Here is the deal...all Roquefort cheese is blue but not all blue cheese is Roquefort. And your cheese can only be called Roquefort if it is made in the town. The tour was in English and very interesting, and this particular maker's cheeses (three of them, with only one available outside of France) were salty, and
Chateau Toirac
Privately owned, offering tours once a day. the guide was good, and very helpful. not so pleasant. At the local market Kevin was able to taste other Roqueforts and found one more to his liking. On the way home, we swung through Figeac and had dinner, quickly. With about five hours driving behind us today, we were pretty tired, and had to gear up for tomorrow.
Tuesday, for me was the highlight of this part of our trip, as we were having a dinner cooked by a friend at a "local, seasonal" restaurant. But first we had to get there, two hours away. We decided a visit to Sarlat, ground-zero for foie gras, was necessary. It was hot, it was crowded, and it was time to stop for a drink. I love Sarlat, and words can't explain the charm of this wonderful town. http://www.northofthedordogne.com/sarlat.php. We left there and headed towards and through Les Eyzies, the home of the palaeontology museum for the area, but it is also home to Font de Gaume prehistoric art cave. We did not go there this year, but I have to give a plug, because I love the cave. http://www.travelfranceonline.com/font-de-gaume-cave-art-vezere-dordogne/ if you find yourself in the area, make a point to visit the caves.
Foie Gras
My entree from the Groupon coupon. A good deal! Dinner at Le Petit Leon in Saint Leon sur Vezere ( a plus beau village de France) - well, there are no words....seeing William Lauder, our friend, was wonderful. And we got introduced to the head chef, Nick Honeyman. Pictures say it all, so I will let them speak for themselves. Since everyone was drinking copious amounts of wine, I drove home......it was a long day.
We said goodbye to our friends, and then the Dordogne over the next couple of days.
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rob lauder
non-member comment
visiting William
Good to read your entry today of tripping around the Dordogne and the Lot. So pleased Will looked after you and turned it on. Food photos look fab. Pity we couldn't visit but I'm sure you ate enough for us too. We stayed in St Cirq Le Popie a few years ago. Friends have 2 houses there. Another magic French village above the river. Bonne journee Rob