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Published: August 8th 2015
Pyla Dune
The largest dune in Europe. I wasn't going to get closer to that edge...Our week in Bordeaux was punctuated by old castles, deluxe wineries and lots of fun dinners in the evenings with friends. We took the TGV down - a wonderful and fast trip. I love the trains in France. After picking up the rental car we arrived at Raymond and Francoise's house. Monday Kevin and I went off to the hyper-marche down the road. These markets are more than markets...they have electronics, cookware and household goods, and even clothes. But we bypassed all that to pick up some food supplies for the week. The highlight was picking up some foie gras that cost only €6 for 200 g and was surprisingly good! You don't need to spend big bucks for the big foods...
We came back from the market to be whisked off by Raymond and Francois to to go the Bassin de Arcachon and the Pyla sand dune. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dune_of_Pilat. It is the largest dune in Europe, and very big. Luckily it was a cooler day (I use that term loosely) so the climb wasn't too bad. We then drove around Arcachon, a designed summer, and later winter, community for the wealthy of Paris and Bordeaux. Houses are very
Upper Arcachon
This area was developed as a spa for tubercular patients. There was a casino (destroyed by fire in the 70s) in the center and all these wonderful houses surrounding it. This is just one example. expensive, but the architecture, mid-1800s French, was wonderful to look at.
Tuesday was our day in Bordeaux, since we had to do a couple of things...I had a couple items on my list...lunch, shopping for earrings at a cute boutique Wendy and I had been in last year, and also a trip to my favourite macaron shop in Bordeaux, specialising in savoury macarons. Flavours such as foie gras, roquefort, balsamic vinegar, just to name a couple, tempted me and I brought some home for aperitifs. The restaurant, La Cagette, was as good as last year, and we were seated next to a lovely couple who are living in Paris. (She is Aussie, he is French). The main course, a stuffed veal with potatoes, had a wonderful flavour. If in Bordeaux, do not miss La Cagette (http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187079-d3626338-Reviews-La_Cagette-Bordeaux_Gironde_Aquitaine.html)
Wednesday we woke up to rain, which was a nice change to the heat. We set off to the Ecomuseum de Marqueze (http://www.tripadvisor.co.nz/Attraction_Review-g675401-d1447449-Reviews-Ecomusee_de_Marqueze-Sabres_Landes_Aquitaine.html). To access the park, a small, antique steam train is ridden for about 3 km, and then you are in the middle of a park with transplanted farm buildings from the 19th century. It is
La Cagette Restaurant
Stuffed pork loin with apricots. Yum. Again, I wasn't disappointed. very reminiscent of the Shelbourne museum in Vermont, and Plimouth plantation in Massachusetts, with craft demonstrations. The architecture of the 1800s in the area is still in play today, and it is lovely to see. I do enjoy seeing the architecture change from district to district, within France. There is so much diversity in design, based mainly on farming requirements, I suppose.
Thursday was chateau Cazaneuve, (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ch%C3%A2teau_de_Cazeneuve), one of the homes of Henry IV of France, which he then gave to a minister. Although the tour was in French, the guide did speak some English and was able to answer questions I had. It has been in the same family since the time of gifting, and is in excellent condition, with original furnishings. It provided an interesting glimpse into the time. Many of the guides at these chateaus are volunteers so it is customary to compensate or tip them at the end of the tour.
Friday Kevin decided we needed to go back to the restaurant in Verdelais that we had been to three years ago. We had found Verdelais, as it is the town where Toulouse-Lautrec's mother lived, in Malrome chateau, and Lautrec
Old-time baking
This was the oven area at the Ecomusee. They were making brioche to serve at the restaurant. is buried in the cemetery. Lunch was as good as before, and, because it was during the week, a pris fixe menu was available. (http://www.lenordsud.com/). The bonus of our visit here was that Malrome, the chateau where Lautrec died, was now open to the public with tours by the vineyard manager's wife. Though the tour was in French, the vineyard manager spoke English and was kind enough to accompany the tour and translate for Kevin and me. His wife had trained in art history and through very halting English and French we were able to have a thorough chat about my favourite artist. At the end was a wine tasting, and Kevin bought 6 bottles, so I will be steaming off the labels!
Saturday - being old farts, we had a sleep in and thoroughly enjoyed it. But since we didn't want to feel like slugs, we got up and headed down the road to langoiran, and its chateau (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Château_de_Langoiran) . We had been trying to visit this chateau for three days. It always pays to checks open hours online or in the guidebook! We also had a little walk around the lower town before heading back
Beehives
Complete with sound effects, these are what beehives looked like in this part of the country in the 1800s. to the house and yet another great dinner with Raymond and francoise.
Sunday was our last full day in the Bordeaux area, and we have just about seen it all, Kevin some of it more than once...but we have one last area to visit, to the north...to Blaye and its fortress (http://www.tourisme-blaye.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=51&tmpl=en). The fortress is one of three built by Vauban, minister to Louis XIV, to protect the Garonne river from outside invasions. It was a large fortress built on ruins of a medieval fortress, and extensive planning was put in to the execution of this edifices. We took the car ferry across the river, to come back home, via Margaux, home of the world-famous vineyard, chateau Margaux. They were closed, but we had a walk around the grounds and the buildings. There is nothing so eerily desolate as a wine producing chateau on a closed day. Home that afternoon for our final dinner with our friends, their son and his girlfriend. It was a very good evening, punctuated by lots of laughs and good food and wine. I had made caneles for dessert and they were very good, though not perfect. I am now two for
Wine bottles
In the cave at Ch. Cazeneuve, these are the different sizes of bottles used in wine-making. The largest is a margeaux. Kevin is in the picture for sizing. two on this intimidating treat. We left in the morning, promising to return, and their visit in 2017 for Kevin's world-famous-in-Russell Bouillabaisse Day. Big thanks, Francoise and Raymond, for all your wonderful hospitality. A bientot!
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