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It was nearly down to freezing last night and Dave woke up several times with cold feet. The pancakes and hot coffee for breakfast helped warm us up, but the the 30 to 40 percent ascent up to Dead Woman Pass is what really warmed us up!
The first 30 minutes weren't too bad as we passed the steep grassy meadow on our right that was filled with llamas and sheep. After that, it was all serious UP to the pass.
Dead Woman Pass is just under 14,000 feet; thank you, John Denver, it really was a Rocky Mountain high! There may have been 20 to 30 people there (though we seemed to have the trail to ourselves) -- it didn't matter, this place was a teary-eyed experience.
Like everyone else, we built a small stone tower. However, what wasn't like everyone else, was the ancient coca leaf ritual we did with Oswaldo. Throughout our time with him, he continually referred to "my or our ancestors". Here the Inca custom was to give thanks and wishes as major passes were crossed.
Oswaldo carefully selected nine perfect coca leaves, giving three to each of us. We fanned them
out and as we turned and stopped at N, S, E, and West, we blew through the leaves, giving our thanks and making our wishes. As we did this, we were to acknowledge the Auguis and Apus gods, the gods of the mountains and the white capped mountains.
From the pass, we dropped 2000 feet to Pacay Mayo campsite and check point. Here we rested and finished our snack given to us at breakfast. On the Inka Trail, what goes down must go up! From this valley we climbed over a 1000 feet to Runcu Racay pass. Though a shorter hike than Dead Woman and only 13,000 feet, this was nearly straight up and almost all steps of varying height between 8 and 18 inches. It is not an exaggeration that the majority was at 60 to 70% incline.
Along the way we passed two small lagoons -- the only flat spots and the ruin of an Inca military lookout, Runcu Racay.
After the Runcu Racay Pass we were socked in by fog/low clouds, this compared to the broken clouds and good views through the two passes. In the 1300 foot drop followed by a 500 foot
climb to our campsite at Phuyu Pata Marca, we took no pictures.
However, throughout the afternoon, we were in a micro climate that made us feel like we were in the jungle. It was filled with ferns, moss, bromeliads, orchids (over 10 varieties to this point of the hike), etc.; all that was missing were the monkeys! Hard for us to imagine this at 11,000 feet.
Throughout the day, much of the stone trail had a mountain side and the other side had an Inca-built 10-30 foot steep retaining wall.
We could tell Oswaldo was disappointed as we approached the campsite. He expected 3 or 4 groups and there were 8 or 9. The campground for the most part is located on several small domes with 360 degree views. We ended up 100 feet below in grass and trees with 90 degree views. How can you complain when that 90 degree view shows the snow-capped San Francisco Range?!
This site offered a private toilet with a wobbly seat, holding a plastic bag, surrounded by a 3 foot square tent. The site below us had it a little better -- live music, a "chef", massages, cots and
we couldn't count all the porters!
Out longest and hardest day was over! Another great day on the trail!
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Suzie
non-member comment
Really Enjoying your Blog!
Hey there! It's Suzie (Mikey and Corkie's good friend). Mikey sent me the link to your blog. I've been reading all the updates. I have always heard Dead Woman Pass was "life changing", seem it's true! Safe travels to your both! Can't wait to see the pics and hear more stories!