Tired Legs and Archeology

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We left Tucuman with good instructions on how to get to the Nomade hostel in Tafi del Valle. We were glad that we did.....´over the bridge and turn right to a pink house'. It was 200m down a dark track and you could feel the warmth of the welcome from some distance.

We sat down at 11pm to a healthy 'asado' barbeque with all the other hostellers and finished with cake for the birthday girl who happened to be staying. Our plan had been to stay just one night and head on to Cafayate. However, the hostel staff persuaded us to stay another day and do a hike into a nearby valley.

Our guide turned up the next morning and we went to the bottom of the nearby mountain in a battered taxi. Our route took us up the mountainside and into a wide 'rift' valley peppered with sheep and horses. The first picture is looking back towards Tafi after the hill climb.

We then did a long hike down to a remote village for a typical but basic lunch that our guide had carried in his pack - a round of cheese, a round of salami, olives, bread and a bottle of vino tinto. Water came from a pipe by a tree (see photo). I drank loads of the water with no ill effects so far and despite the fact that the ducks are probably peeing in the pool above it (see photo!).

The farm complex were we had lunch apparently ran on a feudal system. The local worker had gone to town (Tafi) with his wife and two children - a half day's horse ride away. Two were working the fields so only 5 were around. Yes that makes nine!

We then retraced our steps. It was a long day and we reckon we walked 18 miles in all. Not bad at 6000 feet. We went to bed early after a supper of local goat.

By now we were on the 'Lonely Plant/Rough Guide' trail up the valley to Salta and kept bumping into the same travellers alongside the Argentinian tourists on their winter break.

The next step was the bus ride to Amaicha - the base for visits to Quilmes Indian ruins. The museum there was excellent and gave a great overview of the local geology with a fantastic rock collection. We went to Quilmes in a desparate 4x4 with a rough clutch and pleasant guide (see photo). The ruins (rebuilt in the 70´s) are impressive and the view up and down the valley is a highlight (see picture).

One´s first impression of Cafayate was touristy but the place definitely grew on one. We were still tired from the Tafi walk and some of us ( yes Daniel) stayed in bed until after noon. Well rested we did a guided tour of the Quebrada de Cafayate, an impressive multi coloured canyon (see photo). It is across between Badlands and Arches with a bit of Big Bend thrown in if you know your US National Parks. Most impressive were the dry waterfalls which gave the folk music players fantastic acoustics. We got back in time to try the famous local wine flavoured icecream (actually a sorbet).

We arrived in Salta this morning and have a hectic schedule. More later.

Jem and Dan

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Comments

[Paul Jayne Tom]

We herd the good news Ian well done. The geomorphology looks brilliant straight out of Davidsons theory! not sure what the geese are but have you seen any steamer ducks yet. The cowboy hats look good sound like you have had a realy good trek. All the best Paul