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Published: November 3rd 2010
We made it! Crossed the "treeless plain" overnighting on the 2nd in Madura Pass. There were some nightmarish events and tempers were lost at times - there was even use for the drill!! - Lefty Loosy, Righty Tighty - these are things to remember when you are under a car. But what goes on on tour, stays on tour and to find out more about these events, you may have to wait for the version accompanied by a calming ale or a wine.
The Nullarbor is actually really quite beautiful, parts look desolate especially around Norseman in WA, but as you travel through and the Mallee scrub thins out the grass is thick and the plains just go on and on- after all the recent rain it looks lush. The sunset is of course incredible.
Madura Pass was a welcome sight at the end of our first leg of the journey. As you end this section Madura sits at the bottom of the Nullarbor shelf. Token operated hot water system for women only here. Equal rights for women do not seem to have found their way to Madura. Men can have all the hot water they like, whereas women
are rationed. Not good!!
Traveled on to Ceduna in SA on the 3rd. As you exit WA at Eucla all of a sudden you realise that on the horizon to the south, that the green of a lone shrub has actually changed to a strip of blue - the Southern Ocean and the deep blue just starts getting bigger. Sand cliffs are replaced by limestone cliffs which really do make it look like a bite has been taken out of the country. It really is a fascinating place with water caves forming a labyrinth of tunnels across the Nullarbor.
After the Nullarbor Roadhouse we went to have a look at the Great Australian Bight, which was absolutely spectacular. Alas no more southern right whales but the wedge tail eagles were amazing riding the air currents.
Leaving the Nullarbor felt really quite sudden as cleared land and then oceans of wheat suddenly came into view. Lots of old neglected stone houses and windmills seem to dot the landscape as well. The wheat looks fantastic and the hills just seem to go on forever. Ceduna is a port and in many ways looks just like Esperance. All of WAs
wheat is exported and I imagine SA could be the same as you look across the bay to the silos and port.
The kids are very homesick and Xavier is excited we are heading east. He is a bit worried we won't continue in this direction but equally as worried we might cut the trip short and he could end up back in school.
Didn't pick the Melbourne Cup winner but listened to the race at WA 12.30 pm after following a car load of women in hats for 80kms. Passed "Boydell Rd" outside Esperance but unfortunately didn't get a photo, unlike the "Tonkin Highway", "Tonkin Blvd" etc etc which were in Perth, Bunbury, Busselton - "Boydell Road" seemed to lead into the sandy wheat farms.
We will head to Port Lincoln today. Staying out of the ocean as we are very aware a person in a wetsuit looks mighty like a seal and the sharks seem hungry in SA.
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Michael Harris
non-member comment
WA
Hello I am glad you are in the best part of Australia HAVE FUN