Here There Be Dragons: Scenes From Taipei


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May 17th 2010
Published: May 17th 2010
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Traffic mannequinTraffic mannequinTraffic mannequin

Wearing an awful lot of clothes, as a friend remarked to me.
Two dramatic changes have occurred in my life in the last month. The first is that I, in keeping with a proud family tradition, have grown a moustache. Friends from school may remember the proud creature which briefly graced my face last November-- well, the current iteration is even more spectacular. Popular response has not been encouraging; my friend Pamela told me with undisguised disappointment I looked like an abuelo, Marian informed me that he felt like he could no longer trust me, and Dan made a big scene about insisting that he saw me on the FBI's Most Wanted list. But I am buoyed by my Australian friend Dave's reaction, which was to show unabashed admiration and remark that "moustaches are a little out of style, but that's why they're fun". Which just about sums it up.

The other news is that three weeks ago I joined my school's Dragon Boat team. The Dragon Boat Festival is a big holiday which happens in June, during which time teams from all over Taiwan come to race in long colorful boats shaped like Dragons. The team from my school is made up of about 18 guys and 12 girls from all
Bicycle built for oneBicycle built for oneBicycle built for one

But who's counting? Most bicycles in Taiwan seem laden with a little more than they were built to carry, and hardly anyone wears a helmet.
around the world, with a particularly large representation from Latin America. They are easily among the friendliest and most awesome people I've met here. We practice from 6:30-9:00 every weekday morning, which has significantly changed the structure of my day. Gone are the luxurious mornings spent drinking tea and studying, as well as the late nights reading or playing video games (currently replaying an old favorite, Secret of Evermore...). What I've gotten in return, however, is a wonderful group of friends, the chance to participate in a unique and ancient Chinese tradition, the honest fatigue which comes from hard physical labor, and a degree of physical strength and health which I've probably never had before in my life. A fair trade, seems like.
The first few weeks were spent on conditioning, but since last Wednesday we've been on the water every morning. The competition is only a few weeks away, so every day there is a palpable heightening of intensity. Today the coach (a quiet, intense, and humorous Taiwanese man with very little hair) had us row for over 2000m straight. A Dragon Boat is neither light nor speedy; rowing for 2 km took nearly 20 minutes of solid pulling,
Crook and ShadowCrook and ShadowCrook and Shadow

At the site of a house in the process of being demolished. The afternoon sun was low, every shadow was spectacular.
and may have been the most exhausting thing I've ever done. A few minutes into the haul, with all of us grunting and cursing, the coach laughed from his position at the head of the boat and told us that we had to push through the "dead point", a term which he never defined but which we understood all too intimately. He was right, too-- there came a point when it was no longer painful, no longer even difficult, when my body just moved of its own accord and my mind accepted the absurd circumstances and watched quietly. He seemed pleased at the end of it all, and had us rest by laying flat on the guy sitting behind us, letting the boat drift along with the current. That moment, feeling the sun on my face and the river around my foot and the pulse of the blisters in my hands, was divine.



Note: The pictures on this post have nothing to do with the above; they are simply a collection of images taken on various strolls and hikes over the last month. The captions should be self-explanatory.


Additional photos below
Photos: 23, Displayed: 23


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Playground 1Playground 1
Playground 1

One sunday as I was strolling through a neighborhood near my house, I found a playground full of kids and parents. It was a beautiful, lively scene.
Playground 3Playground 3
Playground 3

Two generations apart.
Playground 4Playground 4
Playground 4

Sleepy spectators.
Playground 5Playground 5
Playground 5

The inevitable baby picture. What great toes.
Guo LaoshiGuo Laoshi
Guo Laoshi

i.e., Teacher Guo. Last Saturday my Chinese class took a field trip to Longshan Temple and a nearby shopping district, the once-seedy red light district known as Snake Alley. For lack of more exciting photos, I'll introduce you to my classmates!
MiguelMiguel
Miguel

Enjoying the koi outside Longshan Temple. An anxious but hard-working lawyer from Spain. His Spanish accent stubbornly shines through when he speaks Chinese, making him involuntarily roll his R's and pronounce his J's like H's.
Xiao BaiXiao Bai
Xiao Bai

A quietly spunky girl from Japan, she had the unenviable honor of being the only female in a class of boys. She's here in Taipei studying Political Science and Chinese for a year, then she'll go back to Japan to finish her degree.
Patty and EdPatty and Ed
Patty and Ed

Two boys from England. Not the most hardworking students exactly, but a lot of fun.
Felix and MarianFelix and Marian
Felix and Marian

From Germany. Marian and I have had a number of interesting conversations over a pint or a meal after class. His knowledge of Taoism and Chinese history are formidable, but his opinions on women's rights are a little medieval.
Yellow SnakeYellow Snake
Yellow Snake

Hence, Snake Alley. This guy's days are numbered; snake meat is a delicacy in Taiwan, and snake blood is drunk to enhance virility.
Flower seasonFlower season
Flower season

A couple weekends back I went hiking with a few friends of mine. Flower season was just beginning the mountains to the south of Taipei, and white petals covered the trees and path.
CrownsCrowns
Crowns

The girls turned the fallen flowers into crowns...
ScepterScepter
Scepter

...then I became their king.
Thoughtful graffitiThoughtful graffiti
Thoughtful graffiti

Taken at a night market near Ximen, an area famous for its nightlife and the vitality of the queer scene.
Self Portait 3Self Portait 3
Self Portait 3

Medium: cereal spoon. Note the moustache!


17th May 2010

facial hair
...nothing wrong with it! I vote "keep it".
18th May 2010

Yee-ah!
Thanks, Bob! Will do.
19th May 2010

moustaches
well, we're all entitled to youthful hijinks (or hair-jinks), i suppose...but why can't we see a *real* picture of your moustache? are you so ashamed you have to hide it in the distortions of a spoon? :P
3rd June 2010

leii boooweeen
hao pengyou! exciting changes in your life! the moustache is always a great choice, but it better not take away from your will to partake in next moustache november, for i can grow a nice mexistache now!I especially like your spoon picture, it highlights the moustaches impeccable grooming and shape. the dragon boat festival race sounds awesome..we actually learned a little bit about the festival in chinese last semester. keep us updated, i would love to hear how the festival went. take care and best of luck, kaaaang booooorui P.S. when will you write a blog in zhongwen? im sure your chinese is ridiculous now.
8th June 2010

Glad to hear you're doin well! i've done a bit of rowing myself, so i know where you're coming from. but then again, my trips were always on lighter, aluminum canoes which are nowhere near the size or bulkiness of a dragon boat though, by the sound of it. ive got a friend from penn state who lives in Taiwan who's been to several of the places you've taken pictures of and written about. when i asked him about chicken town though he had no idea, he looked at me like i was crazy, haha. anyways, wear your stache proudly! when are you coming back?

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