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Published: April 14th 2010
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Camouflage
At a rest stop on our way to Sun Moon Lake. A few weeks ago, my friends Miyuki and Calvin and I decided on a whim to spend the weekend at Sun Moon Lake (日月潭). Early on Saturday morning we piled into Calvin's car and ventured down Taiwan's west coast into Nantou county, munching sleepily on an oily, delicious breakfast of eggs wrapped in spring onion pancakes (蔥抓餅). Three hours later we arrived at the lake. We spent the day exploring the area: a lively marketplace with tasty food (pumpkin rolls, rice cooked inside bamboo stalks), a boat tour of the lake, a walk through a butterfly garden. In the evening we took a long, sometimes perilous drive up a skinny road into the mountains to the northeast. Though we lost our way once or twice (or three times, or...), we finally made it to a cozy restaurant perched on the mountainside. After a mighty dinner (featuring a bony and wide-eyed fish for the ladies and a tall bottle of Taiwanese beer for me) we found our way back down the mountain to our hotel.
The next day we awoke at 5:30, quickly packed our things, and trekked back up the mountain to catch the sunrise. We were not disappointed; the vistas
were impossibly scenic. The steep drop-offs which last night could only be dimly and anxiously imagined were brought dazzlingly into existence by the emerging light. The heavy mist, which made islands of the mountaintops, burned away gradually as the sun rose. It was the kind of confounding beauty which fills one with equal parts joy and melancholy. We laughed and clamored at each other, took pictures, gasped and murmured curses or praises under our breath, and finally shivered in silence together. Then we drove to Starbucks and nursed coffees and newspapers while we waited for the rest of the world to wake up.
Later that morning we went to the Qingjing Animal Farm, an unlikely sort of place to find in such a jagged mountainous environment. Sheep, horses, goats, even an insect exhibit (though I have a sneaking suspicion that most of the insects in the displays were already dead-- the praying mantis was missing a leg and laying on its side). We passed several lazy, contented hours there before making our way down the mountain for the last time to find some lunch. In the afternoon we stopped at a rather unusual place, the Buli alcohol factory (埔里酒廠). A
Bustling 1
A view of the marketplace leading to the shore of Sun Moon Lake. tourist attraction in Nantou county, it's basically a large museum/market devoted entirely to alcohol and its history (and enjoyment). Rows and rows of vendors giving out free samples of various sundry liquors and wines, and (even more bizarre) a whole host of alcohol-infused cakes and candies and meats. We lingered for a bit, then continued on to Taichung (台中) where we met some of Calvin's friends for a fiery dinner at a Szechuan-style restaurant. Then, with tongues still slightly burning, back to Taipei through heavy end-of-weekend traffic.
The next weekend I went traveling again, this time by myself. I had a four-day weekend because Monday was a national holiday, so I took the opportunity to explore a little bit of Taiwan's east coast. As a student I qualify for a Youth Travel Pass which, among other benefits, allows me to buy extremely cheap train tickets. I bought a five-day unlimited ride pass for the equivalent of 18 US dollars, and used it to ride up and down the east coast from Saturday until Tuesday.
First I went to a coastal town called Fulong. The train ride, predictably enough (Saturday afternoon on a holiday weekend) was packed with
Bustling 2
Looking the other direction, away from the lake. Some unforgettable faces in the crowd. people, so I stood or sat on the ground for the hour and a half long ride. Once at Fulong, I checked into my hotel, dumped my backpack on the bed, and took off again with my camera and an umbrella. The weather was rainy and subdued, but the colors were all the more vibrant for it. My walk took me along a biking path which led ultimately to the ocean, where I stayed until the light failed. A lonely experience, to behold the Pacific on a rainy deserted beach in an unfamiliar town. Lonely but certainly not all bad. I found dinner in the only place in town still open, a small roadside stand selling my favorite snack, 蔥抓餅. The next day I explored more of the seaside, traveling the other direction along the bike path until it took me to Dongxin Temple and the fishing wharf. From a 2nd floor coffee shop overlooking the water I watched surfers and fishermen until late in the morning, when I checked out of my hotel and continued south to Hualien. The trip was long but full of colorful people and excellent views--out one window of the train was the vast expanse
of the Pacific, and out the other window towered green mountains wrapped in mist.
In Hualien I found my hostel, and once again deposited my things and took a walk. That night I ended up at the All-Star Pub, hoping to find some other ex-pats to talk to and a cold bottle of some American beer (my enthusiasm for cultural immersion is directly correlated with my general energy level--as I become weary or sad, I long for English speakers and Americana in a way which repels me in the buoyant light of day). Instead, and to my great delight, I ended up having a wonderful conversation with the bartender, a boy about my age named Quanmin who belongs to an aboriginal tribe called the Ami (阿美族). We chatted for hours, speaking exclusively in Chinese. It was an extremely validating experience for me, as it showed that my language ability has matured to the point where I am able to use Chinese to meaningfully communicate with another person. As I stumbled through the rain, singing, back to the hostel later that night, I reflected on how fortunate it was that I had decided to travel alone; if I had been
with another person or persons, the conversation with Quanmin would have been a brief, perhaps forgettable interlude in an otherwise us-focused evening. As it turned out, he and I became fast friends that weekend. The next day he took me around all of Hualien on his motorcycle, giving me an insider's tour of the most notable spots in the city, all the while telling me about the experience of being a member of an aboriginal tribe in a culture dominated by Han Chinese. Easily one of the nicest, most interesting individuals I've met during my travels.
On Tuesday I checked out of my hostel, ate lunch at a vegetarian buffet near the train station (the best in all Hualien, I was assured), then began the slow journey back to Taipei. When I arrived, I was pleasantly surprised by the affection with which I regarded my neighborhood, my bedroom, even the (ever wary, ever distrustful) dog. I've carved out a home here, and it felt nice to return to it.
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Your writing is well thought out and very enjoyable to read. I was looking for places to go and things to do at Sun Moon Lake, and your entry not only gave me ideas, but was inspiring. Look forward to reading your other adventures.