San Augustin

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Hi Everyone ....this is Laurel blogging... a first ....

After Ty´s birthday and Halloween in the city we flew Southwest from Bogota at 2500 M to the village of Popyan at a slighty warmer 1740 M. Our plan : to visit 2 of the 3 archaeological sites of Colombia.

(A Documentary Moment)
Colombia is the only overland gateway to South America & is assumed to have been the route travelled by the continents first human inhabitants coming from N. & Central America.....now we gringos continue to come from the north. The archaelogical sites of Colombia arent particulary well known - small and scattered tribes left few enduring monuments - unlike the Aztecs and Incas who dominated vast regions further South. But we´d heard from Leanne that the underground Tombs and the Animist Statues of Tierrodentro & San Augustin would be found in the midst of Mountainous jungle reminiscent of Raiders of the Lost Arc and were not to be missed. So on her advice, we jumped on bus from Popyan and headed to
San Augustin - 100 kms & 6.5 hrs later up that stereotypical foreign dirt road that makes a traveller wish (perhaps the only time in their life) that they had a cushier cushion - we arrived.

Lush landscapes, sharp hills and valleys on either side of the Rio Magdelena - populated with palm trees,
pointsetta trees, bamboo forrests, and an abundance of los flores - every exotic flower you´ve included in a tropical boquet....birds of paradise, orchids, hibiscus.....Beautiful. The archaelogical sites....not the secluded non touristy areas remembered by Leanne but we still had a great time.

According to our guide...back in ´95 when my adrenalin seeking buddy went to visit - there were NO tourists. The area was rife with Guerilla activity and the daily kidnapping, flight-nappings, and murders made the development of the archaelogical park pointless. Now, post 2 terms of President Uribe, the violence is dramatically reduced and the area is pretty touristy(in terms of access - we only met 4 other travellers). The fenced off statues are surrounded by neatly mowed lawns..... stone stair cases lead through the parks up to some of the mountain top sites. We hiked our way through the parks and did an 8 hr jeep tour.

More fun though was the day we spent on horseback making our way to some of the more remote off'road sites..... a slow trot up n´down muddy hills ....very rural....very friendly people....loved it.

Our nights were spent eating a lot of meat , drinking coffee, and practising spanish. After my spanish lessons Yo entiendo, pero no puedo hablar....ie. I understand but I can not speak....Im learning alot but I have probably had 5 understood sentences total -many blank stares´-...Ty´s a bit of a superstar, chatting up the locals....that´s my goal by the end of the 10 wks.

So hope I can manage to download a few photos to show you all......we´ve now moved further North to the city of Cali......will keep you posted......

.....miss all of my buddies (Ty too)

Love to our families.

Happy birthday Dad!

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Photos

Los Flores
Orchid

Butterflies
Butterflies and Birds are everywhere

Augustinian Statue
Tribal leaders were remembered in statues surrounding their tombs as powerful figures in colors of red-yellow-black - with meat tearing incisors, and in this case, a child to be sacrificed under 1 arm and the machete under the other. Sacrificial alters are scattered through out the park. Virginity not recommended.

Female Statue
Las Mujeres were stylized with round eyes of the moon
an triangular heads to symbolize the sustenance and fertility of corn... the hands of a dj show it was the chica´s that brought the big beats to the people.

Laurel En Tumba
The Pre Colombian tombs of Augustinian Kings....
or for a too tall gringa & a photo op

Comments

[Kathy]

Loving the blogging, and sounds like you both are having a great time! Miss you both and keep up the writing! Kath

[Amir]

Wildlife
Did you guys see any wildlife while venturing deep into the jungle?

[Berm]

So Ty is the party writer and Laurel is the cultural correspondent? Ok, we are all getting jealous now! Berm