Voodoos and Fetishes abound in Togo and Benin

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These two items are probably the ‘big ticket’ items from this part of the world. By way of introduction, our very first visit was to the fascinating, if rather gruesome, local fetish market in Lome, Togo, where all manner of animal parts are sold for use in traditional medicines. A fetish (sorry guys, not the sexual desire type!) is an inanimate object worshipped for its magical powers or because it is considered to be inhabited by a spirit. Animal skins, bones and skulls, tortoises, feathers, powders and various concoctions, stuffed snakes, amulets and good luck charms, iron bells that “chase away spirits”, dried leaves and plants were all represented at this market. The fact that this day was stinking hot and the aroma from the market just plain stinking meant we kept this visit to a minimum. On our further travels, we repeatedly saw fetishes dotted around the villages - these were often rocks or other solid objects (we saw tortoise shells at one village) in which a spirit was believed to reside, often covered in candle wax, feathers and blood where sacrifices have been made.

Later, we moved on from Lome towards Lac Togo and Agbodrafo. On the way, we stopped at a remote village to witness a Voodoo ceremony. Voodoo comes from a combination of traditional West African practices of ancestor worship and animism, which is the belief that every object, including animals and plants, contains a spirit or a soul. Basically the ceremony comprised a bunch of men beating a frenetic rhythm on drums, with the chants of the surrounding villagers calling the voodoo spirits, who take possession of a series of dancers, mainly but not exclusively women, who fall into a deep trance, eyes rolling back, grimacing and even convulsions. In the end, they would often just collapse onto the ground if not saved by their fellow dancers. Although we didn’t see it, I understand it also renders these dancers insensitive to fire or pain. The villagers were all very hospitable and happy to have photos taken, as were the myriad of little kids that surrounded us as we moved in and out of the village.

Soon after we crossed the border from Togo into Benin and we headed on towards Ouidah, a stronghold of Voodoo and once an important slave port. First stop was the Temple of Pythons, where a collection of snakes are venerated as earthly representatives of Voodoo gods. The snakes are a major totem for followers of Voodoo, as they are important religious symbols and are highly respected. Inside the temple, there’s a pit filled with dozens of snakes from a species known as the Royal python (notable for their docility) either slinking around or tangled together. It is reported that approximately sixty pythons make this temple their home. The snakes are harmless and visitors are permitted to hold them.

Early the next day, we stopped just off the roadway at the Dankoli fetish, a fairly crude setup but one which is considered the most important shrine in Benin. Here, the locals push little sticks into a large conglomerate of fetish as witnesses to the countless prayers made to the local god. They would often pray for such events as a good harvest, a happy wedding, an easy delivery, a success at school etc. Once the prayers are answered, these same people return to sacrifice what they had promised to the fetish, be that a goat, a chicken or a cow, according to the nature of the prayer. Significant quantities of blood, palm alcohol and palm oil on the fetish mound were evidence that a lot of pilgrims felt they had had their prayers answered. By pure ‘luck’, we arrived just in time to find two men who had returned to sacrifice a goat each. They slit their throats to spread blood on the fetish mound, then cooked them on an open fire and sliced them up into their various cuts. To be honest, the area more resembled a rubbish dump and I found the whole ceremony rather gruesome and frankly unappealing. One of our group then did the touristy thing and stuck in a stick and made a wish, but I doubt he will be back with a goat if his wish comes true.

That gives something of a coverage of the two cultural items that play a big part in the lives of the people of Togo and Benin.

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Comments

[Dancing Dave]

More female dancers
Catches the vibe magnificently. Great pic!!!

[Dancing Dave]

Just dancing
Inspired me to open a "Dancing in the Streets" thread in the Photography Forum. I invite you to get into it.

[D MJ Binkley]

Great photo
I love watching the locals dance.

[DaveandIssy]

Voodoo
Woah! Women falling into trances and collapsing. Sounds like something straight out of a Bond flick. Sounds like a very "interesting" part of the world!

[Nomad Old Farts]

Voodoo
Yeah, that region certainly has its own culture based around the themes of voodoo, fetishes and the old slave trade. It’s a long haul from Oz however, travelling cattle class, or maybe I’m just getting old!