These two items are probably the ‘big ticket’ items from this part of the world. By way of introduction, our very first visit was to the fascinating, if rather gruesome, local fetish market in Lome, Togo, where all manner of animal parts are sold for use in traditional medicines. A fetish (sorry guys, not the sexual desire type!) is an inanimate object worshipped for its magical powers or because it is considered to be inhabited by a spirit. Animal skins, bones and skulls, tortoises, feathers, powders and various concoctions, stuffed snakes, amulets and good luck charms, iron bells that “chase away spirits”, dried leaves and plants were all represented at this market. The fact that this day was stinking hot and the aroma from the market just plain stinking meant we kept this visit to a
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