West Highland Way July 2022

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Tuesday 5 July 2022. Day 3 on the West Highland Way (WHW) from Balmaha to Rowardennan. 8.7 miles by Garmin. 784 feet Elevation gain. 6 hours 23 minutes walking. This will be called our day of the flowers as we saw so many very minute and beautiful species. With the help of the app - SEEK - we were able to identify many of them.

The Oak Tree Inn was a very nice accommodation. We are in a cabin a short walk from the reception but the lovely lady, Rosemary, helped find our bags, tote a bag and walk us to the room and then had to go back to get our key. She let us in a room which had twin beds. We quickly scarfed down the biscuits on the table with the coffee makings and we are making ourselves comfortable when she returned stating, "Oops, wrong room–you are supposed to be in 43." This was a double room with a spacious bathroom so we had ‘a lay down’ area for the bags and could spread out some things. So far all the places have circular, sliding glass door showers - quite small. The hot water controls are a little bit different in each one so it warrants some trial and error - out of the water - to get it adjusted to desired temperature. We are amused at this inn because they have a note saying the water flow and temperature have been set to meet the desires of most clients–do not tamper with settings!!

We are a couple of days behind since there was no internet service at the Rowardennan Hotel when we arrived or during our entire stay. So will try to recall events from the photos.

The Tom Weir memorial park was the first place that caught our attention. It has several descriptive signs, a statue of Tom Weir and information about the garden he and his wife kept. He lived from 1914 to 2006, and is known as Scotland’s most loved mountain man. He was a mountaineer, writer, photographer, naturalist, journalist, broadcaster and conservation campaigner. At the end of today we will be at the foot of Ben Lomond mountain known for its, "White blocks of quartz that sparkle like snow." Tom and his wife Rhona's garden consisted of 4 types of stone as well as plants: sandstone, schist, slate, quartz; heather, juniper, wild thyme and lady fern. Many of these we would see along the way today.

At the southeast end of Loch Lomond, Balmaha Bay is a gateway to the Loch. With the National Park visitors center and many vacation spots it is a bustling little village. But we leave the statue at Tom Weirs Rest and proceed along a nice stone pathway near the water with a view across the loch. We have several interesting looks at uprooted trees, tree roots and lone trees by the loch.

Our attention is drawn to the hedges of Trailing Bellflowers. then further on the Perennial Cornflower. These are both blue but with very different flower shapes. The bees, of course, are loving them. Then we see the Bell Heather and Creeping Jenny. Further along are Herb Robert, Greater Bird's-foot-trifoil, the native Scotland Creeping Thistle, New Zealand Hebe, and Meadow Pea. This is the most delicate yellow ground cover. As we came to a campsite we met a park warden who stopped to talk with us about the flowers. We looked at several clovers and then she saw a plant she could not recall the name of. My SEEK app told us it was Common Selfheal.

"Oh, yes!" She said. "This plant indicates where ancient settlements were and they used this plant for self healing."

The uses of the All-Trails app with the segments of the WHW has augmented the map, guide book, and my Garmin for keeping us on the path. But it has also had a learning curve: how to pause and resume, how to save and try to keep it and the Garmin more or less in synch. The Garmin is an old Forerunner 25 and has limited battery capacity. So at each stop I try to remember to pause and then resume. If I pause too long it then saves and I have to see this to start it again for the next segment. If we are stopped, like for lunch for several minutes I save it and put it on charge to get more energy into the battery but that can also be short lived. So the times, distances and elevations are what I have from the devices not necessarily the real numbers.

At mile 3 we pass Cashel Farm and camp site. Our trail diverts from the shore to over hills that form peninsulas into the loch. It also becomes more rocky and slow. Some small birds dart along the path and in the trees and allow us to get quite close. I think they are a type of wren.

Our next point of note is Sallochy formation. This is part of The Trossaches National Park with controlled camping locations. I have about a 1 minute video of the stream we cross (burn) and the path as we walk beyond this camping area.

Silvertoes notes: The Oak Tree Inn is a special rest stop. It is a family concern and since the founders had eight children they had a good source of employees! Service is exceptional. When Rosemary finds we have already eaten the biscuits she says she will replace them. When we are at dinner an employee comes with a sack, stapled shut, with three packages of the Crystal shortbread we have all come to love! There is a home-made ice cream shop–the ice cream is delicious-yum. A year later the St. Mocha Coffee Shop opens. Roasting of coffee beans is done on site. The Oak Tree has been named Scotland’s Pub of the Year several times. A wonderful story of a young couple with a vision that has blossomed!



I will well remember Rowardennan. No matter how I tried I could not pronounce the name accurately. It looks as if it would be simple enough to break down the word! Perhaps it is because the locals put the emphasis on different syllables. It ties the tongue!

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Comments

[Jim]

Scotland trip
Great picts. Sounds like wonderful trip!