Everest Base Camp trek, Day 5 - Dingboche to Leboche

---

This was my favorite day of hiking! When we left after breakfast, and after I had taken my first diamox pill (I only did half in the morning and half at night), we had about a 20 minute climb behind the village. When you search on google maps, it shows that you're coming down hill and walking up along the river bed. No, this way was so much better. Not only was the hiking much easier, the views were absolutely breathtaking! We walked for about 90 minutes along this fairly easy route, which had no distinct trail per say, but was an almost flat slope with an absence of vegetation, so easy to see the way. We stopped at a couple locations for some amazing photo stops, one over Dingboche, and another area at a large boulder where you could look down into the valley where the little village of Pheriche was located (this village would come into play on our last day).

It is hard to overstate how incredibly beautiful the views were. We picked a spot where we all just sat to take a rest, and looked across to the snow capped peaks, the blue skies, the river. Incredible. Not to mention, the weather was also perfect: clear and not at all cold. I think I was just wearing one shirt and my heat reflected coat, which was a bit on the warmer side, but was better to keep on with the the wind coming and going. Also, note for the future to wear sunblock on your hands! Since there were no trees and the snow reflected the sunshine pretty well, it was very bright. I had my biking gloves on, so I got a little sunburn in the shape of a hole on the top of my right hand, toward the direction of the sun and which was facing up due to my trekking poles. It was there for about a week! :D

Soon, we started to approach the river crossing near Dukhla (Thukla?) where we would have lunch. This was located at elevation 4620m and was a nice stopping point. Here, we had my favorite lunch, plain old spicy ramen noodles! A few of the group took a brief nap here in their chairs while waiting for the second part of the day. This was also a bit of crowded location, people seemed to be coming in and out.

After lunch, we climbed up the steep trail for about 45 minutes, passing some yaks coming down, and still with the great views, though at this point the clouds were rolling in. At the top of this section is the Everest Memorial, Chukpi Lhara, where dozens if not hundreds of memorials and cairns as well as prayer flags are located, devoted to those who have lost their lives in the pursuit of hiking the highest mountain in the world. Large memorials to famous people like Scott Fischer and Rob Hall, as well as smaller cairns for others. We took our time to take it in while standing in this somber yet beautiful location. It makes you think how many attempt this adventure and what the real cost could be. We continued on over a short hill, where there were still memorials scattered along the trail, some small, some clear - a few Bulgarian (I think) memorials were clear and located as etchings or plaques on large boulders, some gave short stories of the individual. So, definitely a place to see if you do this trek.

From here, the weather was more overcast and a bit cooler but still not too terrible. At this point though, I think we were all tired. It was not obvious, but I think the altitude was starting to pay attention - you were just breathing a bit harder and walking a bit slower without even thinking about it. It was still beautiful though! The trail was quite rocky at this point and even had thin streams crossing at points. So, much more rustic than the well established trail for the first 3 days. It was fun to see the yaks coming along the paths. Soojan (our guide) and Gopal (porter turned guide) accompanied us. Gopal and I chatted a bit; he had done this trek 125 times (!!!!!!!), but this would be his last for a while as he and his wife were expecting their first baby in June. He was a porter in our group, but he did a lot of the tasks that the guides did - walking with us, helping to get dinner and teas sorted, etc (I gave him an individual tip later and I think a couple others did as well - well deserved).

Finally, we got to the teeny, tiny village of Lobuche, elevation 4940m, where we saw the guide Sudip waving to us from the tea house (the last of course!) - I think this was called the EcoLodge? It had a small common room, but nice and warm, and full of people! There was a group of Canadian women talking about another woman in their group who had semi-collapsed, most likely altitude sickness.... and they seemed to have little sympathy! Our group seemed a bit more supportive. We warmed in front of the stove heated by yak dung and discussed some of the history of Everest expeditions - what we knew, what we could look up, and info from a book. We then found our rooms, spread across two sections of the lodge - we had steep stairs to climb outside, but the room was cute enough. We returned to the common area and I led a stretching session with many of the group - I did this every night on my own and they saw my flexibility, so asked for some guidance. I hate being the center of attention and in the crowded room I was so embarrassed, but we did it. A couple of the people the next day said that it really felt amazing. So, glad to help and if you go - stretch!

Later that night, Soojan pointed out a woman that was going to summit Everest. I guess she noticed we were talking about her so she came up to us to chat. She said she had been in Everest Base Camp for a while, but the constant discussion about hiking and submitting was a bit boring so she wanted to get a change of scenery and company while still acclimating, so she came to Lobuche for a few days. She is a tiny Indian woman and will be (was!) the first vegan Indian woman to summit. If you're interested, her instagram is itisinthename and she has some great photos, videos, and views of the submitting trip as well as other adventures.

Evening routine included another half diamox pill, stretch, hot water for the sleeping bag (definitely needed tonight!). They also tell you that you may have strange dreams in the mountain. They're not kidding! I don't remember them much now, of course, but some were very vivid and out of nowhere. Also, my usual resting heart rate is about 58-62; as we got higher and higher, it approached 75! So, definitely you can see the toll hiking at altitude takes on you!

Dingboche to Thukla to Lobuche: ~11km, 4300m to 4620m to 4940m

---

Comments

[Dancing Dave]

Follow that Road
Maybe not a road but a track...but what a load and what a track!!! I am posting this in 'Follow that Road' in the Photography Forum as it is too good to not remember its journey to somewhere. Check 'em out.

[D MJ Binkley]

Base Camp
Bravo.