Everest Base Camp trek, Day 4 - Deboche to Dingboche

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We got up and had our breakfast before starting day 4. By this time, I fully expected to be tired or sore or something. But I actually felt pretty great. I was still postponing taking the altitude sickness pills because I felt so good. I did try to stretch every night when we got back, nothing major, just getting out the kinks. I was pleasantly surprised at how good I felt and at this point we had done the hardest physical part of the hike with the steep slopes the previous two days. So, really, the trek is mostly just walking. You can take your time, stop as much as you want, and the hike itself is amazing from beginning to end, so you are mentally at peace as well.

Today was going to be just a fairly gentle overall incline up to Dingboche. It was still a lovely view walking along the path beyond the hotel. There was a group taking photos of the river behind us, but when you came around the corner, you got just this amazing view of Ama Dablam. We crossed a short bridge and from there, it was a clear view. This mountain was our guide, Soojan's, favorite and so he was very happy, and told us that we would basically see this mountain the entire day from various vantage points. The name means "Mother's necklace" and extends up to 6812m in elevation, so technically a 'mountain' according to the guides' definitions. It is also a very difficult mountain to climb due to its steepness.

We continued on going up and stopped in Pangboche for a tea break, with great views behind us downhill. The weather was perfect. Somewhat warm, very sunny and clear. After another 90 minutes or so of hiking, we had lunch at a small rest stop area. Great views again and we had a long rest here. After lunch, and right around 4000m elevation, it was noticeable that now there were no trees. Mostly just scrub brush and the terrain was becoming a bit more rocky. Supposedly, across from where we had been sitting, there was a snow leopard in the hills that someone in the group in front of us had seen. Our guides were skeptical; yes, that side of the river is where you would see a snow leopard, but they don't tend to come around people and the EBC trek is well travelled, so they usually stay further in. Either way, pretty cool to know that there are snow leopards hanging about.

The terrain was rockier, and the path was less defined. It became kind of meandering with multiple well worn paths through the area, but still easy to see the way. And it was such a gentle incline for the most part, especially after lunch, that the walk itself was quite pleasant and we were able to hike in little groups and chat. The last 30 minutes the route inclined a bit more as we approached Dingboche and we were a group of about 4, just taking our time and getting some amazing photos. The sky was so blue and with no trees, the views downslope were amazing. There was a small stupa as you approached the village and then you look out over the cluster of buildings and walls with huge mountains as a backdrop. I loved seeing the stone walls running around the town and the patterned roofs of the small outbuildings. It had a lot of vibrant colors, but not garish - just great views. This was also the first area we were at that did not have any service with our SIM cards and would be this way until we reached Gorak Shep. If you wanted wifi, you could purchase a different service specifically serving Everest Base Camp areas here. I had no desire to do so. While I enjoyed sharing a photo or two, it was nice to just shut off from the world for a few days.

Some of the group decided to do a short acclimitization hike above the village. Most people who hike the trail use Dingboche as one of their extra days for acclimatization, which is nice anyway due to the incredible scenery. We stayed at the Hotel Good Luck again, a small little chain of hotels which suited me because we had had good experience with them. I took a little rest and then we all met for dinner and our daily briefing. The food was good again but I was really just so sick of carbs at this point. I wanted some proper veggies and fruit. Because it was cold, many of us stayed in the common room for most of the night and played cards. I got another big jug of hot water for us to put in our bottles and sleep with for warmth. I highly recommend planning for this as it really helped!

Deboche to Dingboche: 10km, 3750 to 4300m

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