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Published: December 8th 2021
My Old Neighborhood
My condo was located on a side road called Soi Thanpuying Phahon off Ngamwongwan Road, which is a major artery running east-west through the northern part of Bangkok. The nearby major intersection is with Phahon Yothin Road. Also known as Highway 1, Phahon Yothin goes all the way to the northern edge of Thailand and connects into Myanmar.I didn't come to Bangkok with many specific sightseeing goals in mind. Rather, my goal in coming here was more abstract - I wanted to reconnect with the city that shaped and defined much of my life as a young adult. Bewarned that this blog entry is somewhat introspective.
A Sort of Homecoming
I landed in Bangkok on the evening of December 2nd. From the airport, I took the Airport Rail Link to my hotel, FX Metrolink Makkasan. I stayed in this hotel back in 2013, and I specifically chose it again because it is located next to three critical transport lines: the Airport Rail Link, Petchaburi MRT station on the blue line, and Asoke Pier, a stop on the Klong Saen Saep water taxi route. After checking in, I took the MRT to Terminal 21 where I ate dinner in the food court, and then I called it a night.
My first order of business on the first full day in Bangkok was to take a Covid test so that I could return home to the United States. The testing center I chose - Huanji Gene Technology - was close to Ratchadapisek station, five stops north of
My Old Neighborhood
I lived on the corner unit on the top floor of this condo. I had a nice rooftop deck next to my apartment. my hotel. Exiting the station, I bought a sandwich from a street vendor and made my way to the testing center just before they opened at 8.30 a.m. I was fourth in line, and I was out of the center within 15 minutes. I got my negative result the same day at 4.00 p.m.
Since I was already in the northern part of the city, I decided to take a trip down memory lane by visiting my old neighborhood. I worked in Bangkok (specifically, Don Muang Airport) in 1994-95. Back then, the metro system hadn't been built, and only a small fraction of today's vast network of elevated expressways had been built. Traffic was horrendous. It would have probably taken me up to two hours to get from my hotel in Makkasan to my old neighborhood near Kasetsart University. Because of the traffic, I was severely constrained by geography. Foreigner friendly accommodations and facilities were scarce in the areas surrounding the airport, so I had few options on where to live. When I settled into my accommodation, I very quickly learned that very little English was spoken in the area. That said, my condo building had enough of a
My Old Neighborhood
A closer up view of my condo. It is difficult to take photos of the building at street level because it is off the street and surrounded by low rise buildings. critical mass of foreign expats that one restaurant nearby created an English menu. Regardless, I had to adapt quickly. I learned enough Thai to conduct transactions, and I got to know the street vendors so I didn't have to always eat at the one slightly overpriced restaurant with the English menu.
26 years on, taking the Bangkok Sky Train to my old neighborhood, I marveled at the ease of movement. I also marveled at how the traffic actually
moved. Don't get me wrong; there were still a lot of vehicles, but they weren't stalled bumper to bumper inching their way forward. Walking from the Sena Nikhom station (where I disembarked) to my old neighborhood, I saw that Ngamwongwan Road had been widened, and the intersection with Phahon Yothin now featured an overpass and an underpass for traffic, which explains why the traffic actually moved now. I also noticed much more English signage, and many new eateries featuring different international cuisines had sprung up. A number of luxury developments had also sprung up.
But, many things had not changed. My condo building was still standing, although it was showing its age. The 7-11 where the male and female staff
Klong Taxi
My favorite mode of transport in Bangkok. conspired to figure out who I would be interested in was still on the corner. Back in the day, my closeted self would avoid eye contact, pay them, and make a quick exit. The dentist who did my root canal and put a crown on the remains of the tooth still appeared to be in business. 26 years on, the crown is still intact. The Chinese temple and the half dozen or so gold shops were still around. I never figured out why there were so many Chinese businesses in the area. The dinghy food court in the corner was still there. If I had visited in the evening, I would have tried to look for my favorite street food vendors, in particular the
khao tom (rice soup) lady who was so kind to me. My other favorite street food vendors included a man who ran a wonton noodle stall and the Hainanese chicken rice man. If I ate breakfast out, I usually bought sweetened sticky rice with banana or taro, or fresh soybean milk. My friends back in Singapore were horrified that I was eating food on the street, but eating nothing but food from that one restaurant with
the English menu was, well, not very exciting.
I walked around the area snapping photos. People politely ignored the foreigner taking photos. Although I have long moved on, it felt great to be back in the area that shaped much of what I am today. Even when I was a teenager, I knew my life path would take me away from Singapore. Bangkok was my first stop. Living abroad for the first time, I learned many things that could not be taught in a classroom. I learned how to adapt, and I learned how to interact in appropriate ways with people with whom one does not share a common background. Most importantly, I learned from the many mistakes I made along the way.
After wandering the area, I made my way to Central Plaza Lat Phrao, a nearby mall where I spent many of my days off when I didn't want to deal with traffic. This mall was somewhat foreigner friendly in the 1990s. There, one could buy cereals and cheeses. There was also a multiplex that would screen at least one English language movie at any one time. I watched a number of movies there, including some
Jay Fai
The amazingly energetic chef at work. At 76, she is the sole chef in her restaurant. She appears to have a well oiled support team that knows exactly what ingredients to put within her reach so that each dish can be executed perfectly. that required specific cultural or historical context such as
The Nightmare Before Christmas and
Forrest Gump. It was surreal watching those movies and being the only person who understood the references.
Michelin Starred Street Food
Leaving Central Plaza, I made my way back to Petchaburi Station where I switched transport modes over to the klong taxi. My plan for the afternoon was to dine at Michelin-starred street food stall Jay Fai. Helmed by its eponymous owner, Jay Fai wasn't on my radar screen when I lived in Bangkok. She rose to prominence when she was awarded a Michelin star a few years ago, and even more international fame followed when Netflix devoted an episode to her in its
Street Food: Asia series. Up until November, I believe they were doing takeout only due to Covid. In early November, they put out a notice on Instagram saying they were taking reservations for in person meals. I immediately emailed them and snagged a spot. In fact, I secured this reservation even before I booked my flight to Thailand. I couldn't believe my luck!
Looking at its location on the map, I pretty much knew where the restaurant was, but I
Jay Fai
My crab omelet. Crispy on the outside. didn't want to take any chances, so I left early in order to scout it out. The easiest way to get there is to take the klong taxi to the last stop on the western end of the route. Now, the klong taxi is by far my favorite mode of transport in Bangkok. It plies along the canals that were once the lifeline of Bangkok. Klong Saen Saep, which runs west to east, remains a vital route for many commuters. Back when I lived in Bangkok, it was the fastest way to get around. I only needed to battle traffic for about an hour in order to get to the nearest pier. From there, it was a smooth ride through the smelly, polluted waterway. Riding the klong taxi is, for me, a great thrill. I love watching the canal side communities, looking at people on the walkways next to the canal, spotting the various food establishments, and even some retail outlets. I can ride the klong taxi all day and not be bored.
At Asoke Pier, I boarded a westbound boat, changed to another at Pratunam Pier, and disembarked at the last stop near Wat Saket. From there, it
Jay Fai
Sliced open to show the generous chunks of quality crab meat inside. was a short walk to Jay Fai. I arrived an hour before my appointment, and noted that it was where I thought it was. Because Jay Fai wasn’t famous back in the 1990s, I walked past her stall many times in the past without knowing that there was a culinary gem inside. While waiting for my appointment, I explored the surrounding area - I walked over to the Democracy Monument, and then I walked around Ratchanadda Temple. The most interesting feature of the temple was an area with various stalls selling religious paraphernalia.
I arrived back at Jay Fai 10 minutes before my appointment. As my reservation was for one, I was hoping to find another solo person in the queue for people without reservations, and invite them to join me so that I could try more dishes. Alas, there weren't any people in line who were on their own. Even though I was early, I was seated immediately. Without hesitation, I ordered Jay Fai's signature crab omelet for which she has received rave reviews. I noted with disappointment that all portions were standard sized, and so I did not have the option of ordering a combination of several
Golden Mount / Wat Saket
View of Bangkok from the top. appetizer sized dishes. Because Jay Fai is the only cook and she cooks each dish to order, my omelet took 40 minutes to arrive. But, her signature dish lived up to its hype. Crispy on the outside, wonderfully rich on the inside, I savored every bite. At 1,000 baht (US$30!), this is probably the most expensive omelet I will ever eat, but it is one to remember!
After lunch, I felt really full from the richness of the food, so I assuaged my guilt about eating that cholesterol bomb by resolving to climb the nearby Wat Saket, or Golden Mountain. Set on a small hill, Wat Saket is my favorite temple in all of Thailand. One had to climb over 300 steps - the reward at the end of the climb is a 360 degree view of Bangkok. At Wat Saket, I noted a few things had changed since I last visited in 2013. For one, there was a coffee shop partway up the steps. Also, there was a new cave-like structure with a large standing Buddha in it. The climb up was as kitschy as I remember it, with random statues, a rubber ducky in a pond of
Golden Mount / Wat Saket
This gruesome exhibit depicts how vultures were a common sight in the area during the cholera epidemics of the 1800s. Because the mortuaries could not cope with the volume of bodies, many were left out for the vultures to dispose of. koi, and other kitsch. What was new - and welcome - was a new mist spraying system. Reaching the top, I enjoyed the views of the city and I also enjoyed observing the worshippers at the golden stupa on top. After about 20 minutes at the top, I descended the stairs and encountered an exhibit I hadn't noticed in the past. It showed a flock of vultures devouring a human body. How gruesome. The sign at the exhibit said that between 1820 and 1880, there were numerous cholera outbreaks in Bangkok. Many of the dead bodies were brought to the area around Wat Saket, but the crematoriums often could not keep up with the volume of bodies. Flocks of vultures made the area their home as they gathered to devour the bodies that the crematoriums were not able to process.
After all this sightseeing, I took the klong taxi back to my hotel and chilled for a couple of hours. When it came time for dinner, I was still full from the rich lunch. I briefly considered having a fruit salad for dinner, but then I thought of the next best thing -
som tam, or papaya salad! I
Soi Convent Som Tam
This is one of Bangkok’s most famous papaya salad stands. The street is named Soi Convent because there is a convent on the street. To make som tam, raw, unripe papaya is shredded and then pounded with other ingredients such as tomatoes, chilies, green beans, and dried shrimp in a mortar and pestle. It is typically eaten with sticky rice. The sound made by the mortar and pestle sounds like pok pok, which is why som tam is also called papaya pok pok. hopped onto the subway and made my way to the Silom area to Hai Somtam, a famous papaya salad stand at Soi Convent. I had eaten at this restaurant in the past as it was near my former employer's downtown office. The papaya salad did the trick - it balanced out the super rich lunch and, more importantly, mitigated my guilt at having consumed that crab omelet. After eating, I wandered around the Patpong red light district and Silom. It certainly was not business as usual. While the night market food stalls appeared to be thriving with many diners, only a small handful of retailers were open. On a normal evening, one would not be able to move with ease through the sidewalks as they would be chock full of vendors and shoppers. On this Friday evening, only a fraction of the shops were open.
Ex Machina
The klong taxi figured prominently in my plans for my final full day of this trip. I wanted to revisit the Aircraft Graveyard, followed by a wander around Chinatown, and finally to Thipsamai for their famous pad thai. My plan was to ride the klong taxi to the Aircraft Graveyard and also
back from Thipsamai.
I left my hotel around 8 a.m. and made my way to the Asoke Pier. Along the way, I bought breakfast (fried chicken and sticky rice) from a street vendor. When I got to Asoke Pier, noted there weren't any other people around, and consumed my breakfast while waiting for the boat to arrive. I waited, and waited, and waited. I looked up the schedule on the information board and online and confirmed that the boats ran on Saturdays. Then, a man walking on the other side of the klong waved to get my attention, and he indicated the boats were not operating. I walked back to the street vendor and asked her if the boats were running. I struggled because I forgot how to say Saturday in Thai. Fortunately, she spoke English (our prior breakfast purchase had been transacted in Thai) and she said that the boats have not been operating on weekends as of late. Drats. I made my way back to my hotel to think about my next moves. I knew that public transport to the Aircraft Graveyard would be slow, and I wasn't willing to deal with over one hour of public
Aircraft Graveyard
The two remaining parts of what used to be two MD82s. When I visited in 2017, the fuselage in front had wings attached to it. The squatter kid who chaperoned me stopped me from visiting these fuselage pieces. transit just to get there. I didn't think fares would be good on Grab (Southeast Asia's version of Uber) but I was surprised to learn that the fare was under $4! I immediately booked a car, and my ride arrived within minutes.
The ride to the Aircraft Graveyard took only about 20 minutes thanks to the network of elevated expressways. As soon as the driver dropped me off, I immediately noted what had changed since
my prior visit in 2017. When I first visited, there were three aircraft: a B747, a mostly intact MD82 fuselage with blue livery with cockpit seats still attached (I could pretend to be a pilot!), and a MD82 with red livery that had been broken up into three sections. The blue MD82 was no longer there. Two parts of the red MD82 were still there, but most of the wings had been removed from one of the remaining fuselage sections.
I caught the attention of the squatter family living there, and one of the kids let me in after I paid him 200 baht. This time around, I wasn't free to wander the grounds. The kid escorted me, and I felt a little hurried. He also prevented
Aircraft Graveyard
What would have been the first class cabin. me from going to the MD82. I couldn't understand what he said to me in Thai, but he clearly said "bad" followed by some words I couldn’t comprehend. I can only assume that the squatters considered it bad form to go to the MD82 because it had crashed with loss of life. Ah well. I thanked the kid and left.
After leaving the Aircraft Graveyard, I made my way to the klong taxi pier at Wat Sriboonruang in the vain hope that it may actually be operating. The food vendor at the pier dashed my hopes when he confirmed they were not operating. I spent a few minutes exploring the wat. Back when I lived in Bangkok, I once hopped onto the klong taxi and stopped at this temple. This was in the days before the internet was widely available, and at that time the klong taxi wasn't on any tourist itineraries, so information in English was nonexistent. I did not know where I was, so I hopped back on the klong taxi and returned to downtown.
Spicy Mark or Very Spicy?
While walking around the temple, I thought about my next destination and I decided to head
Phed Mark
The restaurant had this cute fire and chili logo. This should have clued me in to the spice level. to Phed Mark for an early lunch. Phed Mark is partly owned by
American food blogger Mark Wiens. Mark deserves much credit for bringing Thai food - in particular southern Thai cuisine - to a wider audience in the west. My one issue I have with him, though, is that he eats everything with a crazy amount of chilis, and in doing so he is perpetuating the myth that Thai food must
always be spicy.
The ride to Phed Mark in the Ekkamai area took about 25 minutes. Again, I marveled at how quickly I got there. I found that Phed Mark was right next to the Ekkamai Bus Station, which serves points east of Bangkok. I remember in the past battling traffic for two hours one way just to get to this station to hop onto a bus bound for the beaches and islands east of Bangkok. Now, the BTS runs right to it.
Phed Mark serves only one dish -
pad kaprao, a much loved Bangkok street food dish made of minced meat fried with thai basil and chilies and served over rice with a fried egg. The version served here was very good. While eating, I realized that Phed
Chinatown
Just a selfie with the barber who cut my hair. Mark was a clever wordplay. It could mean "Spicy Mark (Wiens)", but it could also mean very spicy (
phed maak). After eating, I took the train to one of the big malls in the Chid Lom area. My initial plan was to look at silk cushion covers at the Jim Thompson stall. But, while browsing the cushion covers, I balked at the prices, and then I realized I was lukewarm about silk as a material because the silk worms have to die in order to process the silk. I decided to not buy the cushion covers, and I went for a coffee while I thought about my next move. I thought about visiting the Jim Thompson House, but I realized going through a curated exhibition wasn't going to help me connect deeper with Bangkok. I knew I still wanted to go to Chinatown, but I was unsure about going to Thipsamai because getting back would be a pain without the klong taxi in operation. So, I hopped back onto the subway and made my way to Chinatown.
Chinatown
When I lived in Bangkok, I ventured into Chinatown a number of times. Getting there was always daunting, though, because of
Chinatown
Sharks fins. I readily admit to liking sharks fin soup. I haven’t had it since 1995, though. the traffic. I went for Indian food a couple of times (there is an Indian enclave in Chinatown), and on other jaunts I ate some amazing Thai Chinese-style seafood, including Bangkok's much vaunted sharks fin soup. Even though I readily admit to liking sharks fin soup, I haven't had it since 1995.
Emerging from the subway station, I once again marveled at how efficient transport has become. The Wat Mangkon station deposited me right smack on Charoen Krung Road, with the famous Yaowarat Road a short walk away. Despite some obvious changes, including a small mall and some pockets of gentrification, much of Chinatown hadn't changed - it was still crowded, chaotic, and full of life. I walked all the streets and simply took in the sights and smells, including many foods I had in my childhood. I kept an ear out for Teochew, a southern dialect that is technically my mother tongue although I don't speak it. Many Thai Chinese are descended from the same region and the older generation still speaks it. I watched amused as pedestrians, push carts, and motorcycles wended around one another through narrow alleyways flanked by stalls on both sides.
On a
Chinatown
The scene surrounding me as I ate the final dinner of my trip. Plastic stools, collapsible tables, and traffic whizzing by. The only thing missing from this scene was the constant flow of pedestrians walking between the tables because the sidewalk was blocked. whim, I decided to get a haircut at an old school barber. Although I am quite bald, I ironically have to get haircuts more frequently nowadays because I look like a clown when it grows out. Getting a haircut in a foreign land is also an interesting experience. The elderly Thai Chinese barber was very meticulous. In the next chair, another barber and a manicurist were giving the full works to a Thai Chinese man who appeared to be in total bliss. I had an enjoyable conversation with them in a mix of English, Thai, and Teochew.
After the haircut, I wandered around a little more, pondering whether to go to Thaisamai which, incidentally, is located on the same row of shophouses as Jay Fai. I decided against it because the subway didn't go near there and getting back to my hotel would no longer be straightforward without the klong taxi running. Instead, I sought out a sidewalk seafood restaurant I had dined at previously. Back when I lived in Bangkok, this street intersection was a scene of great chaos and fun. On one corner, there is T&K Seafood with their green shirts. Opposite them was Lek & Rut
Chinatown
My dinner of prawns in yellow curry sauce. It really hit the spot. Seafood with their red shirts. The tables and chairs would spill onto the sidewalk and the two rivals would try to outdo the other. I remember sitting on the makeshift tables and chairs scarfing down grilled seafood with cars passing a few feet away and pedestrians wending their way between the tables. This time, the scene was far more sedate. There were a couple of people trying to get you to patronize their stalls, but it was nowhere near the old level of chaos. I chose the red shirts (Lek & Rut) and I had an amazing prawn in yellow curry sauce. After dinner, I walked around some more and then made my way back to my hotel.
Kop Khun Krap Krung Thep
Bangkok never disappoints. It is one of my happy places because it was in this setting that I was thrown into the deep end and forced to learn how to make my way in the world. I learned how to read my environment and assess what I need to do to figure the place out. My time in Bangkok gave me the confidence to become comfortable with being uncomfortable, and from there, to cultivate the internal
Klong Taxi
This serene scene greeted me on Saturday when I attempted to take the klong taxi to the Aircraft Graveyard. It took me a while to figure out they weren't operating that day. resources to figure (or muddle, depending on how you view it) my way through almost anything. I've lived in four countries, traveled to dozens more, and changed careers more often than I care to admit. In fact,
four years ago when I took my career break, I didn't know what would be next for me career wise, but when I was approached to work in my current job, I embraced the challenge even though I had never worked in the industry (banking) or in that functional area (IT). Sure, it has been a steep learning curve, but it was in Bangkok that I learned to not fear the unknown and the learning curves that come with it, and I am a better person for it. For that, I owe Bangkok (Krung Thep) a huge and heartfelt
kop khun krap.
Book Recommendation When I lived in Thailand,
Mai Pen Rai Means Never Mind by Carol Hollinger helped me understand the environment I found myself in. In this fish out of water story, Ms. Hollinger - who, incidentally, grew up in Honolulu - approached her life in Thailand with humor and empathy. She avoided portraying the Thai people as exotic people with exotic habits, or romanticizing her life
The Dark Side of Thailand
Of course, my time in Thailand isn’t all rainbows and unicorns. There is a serious dark side to that nation. There is, of course, the infamous sex industry. As an airline staff, I witnessed a lot of human trafficking and I was powerless to stop most of it. Thai obsession with skin tone is also problematic. Dark skinned people are discriminated against. Ads show models with impossible skin tones. Skin whitening is a massive industry. Many Bangkokians to go extreme lengths to avoid looking as if they work in rice fields in the country. as a diplomat's wife. If anything, her writing focused on how the Thai people thought of
her as exotic. Sadly, this is the only book Ms. Hollinger ever wrote. She passed away from cancer not long after she wrote the book.
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Bob Carlsen
Thank you so much for this blog...
I also grew up in Bangkok, and your reliving of your time there brought back so many memories of my own.