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HELP! SA for 3 months - are our plans realistic?

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Is our current plan realistic?
16 years ago, May 14th 2007 No: 1 Msg: #13911  
Hey everyone,

I'm a new member, although lately a very frequent visitor!!
I have quite a few questions, so sorry this is so long but any help at all would be greatly appreciated. I've researched through "Footprints" and "Lonely Planet on a Shoestring" but would be great to hear other people's thoughts as well if you have suggestions!

Any suggestions are helpful! I really hope this is realistic, but please tell us if you think we will be rushing, as we don't want to be running around in a panic to get everything done, but do want to do lots aswell!
Also, a little background on us (for reference to some questions I'm asking on where to go!) - we are two 22 year old New Zealanders who love travelling, we WILL have hopefully intermediate Spanish by the time we set off in the middle of November (back in NZ in the middle of Jan 08).

We have crossed the Galapagos Islands off our list at this stage, as we don't know if we will have the money to go (and if we end up having it, do you think we have the time to go?? We are thinking we can always do it "next time")

We are planning a 3 month trip to South America, and I want to make sure this is realistic.

Buenos Aires, Argentina (3-4 days)
Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay (1-2 days)
(then back to BA to fly to La Paz)
La Paz, Bolivia (4 days)
Villa Tunari (15-16 days volunteering)
Uyuni (3 day tour of salt flats, ending in Chile)
-------------------------------------
QUESTIONS SO FAR:
* I have estimated that it may take between 9-12hrs to get to Villa Tunari - whould we have a stopover? Is there a bus that goes right thru anyway (or a connection)?
* Is it easier to go back to La Paz after Villa Tunari to get to Uyuni? Otherwise, where can we stop inbetween?
------------------------------------

San Pedro de Atamaca, Chile (3 days)
Arequipa, Peru (4-5 days)
Puno, Peru (4 days - Floating island o/nite tour)
Cuzco, Peru (4 days - bus/train to Machu Picchu)
Huacachina, Peru (2 days)
------------------------------------
QUESTIONS SO FAR:
* This is a long way to travel! How can we break this up, where should we stop on the way and for how long?
* Long (about 15hrs?) bus ride from Cuzco to Huacachina, any suggestions? Preferably not Nazca, but something before that?
------------------------------------

Trujillo, Peru (2 days)
Vilcabamba, Ecuador (1-2 days)
Quito, Ecuador (5 days)
------------------------------------
QUESTIONS SO FAR:
* What are some places to stop between Ica and Trujillo? I haven't found anything that has stuck out yet. And also for how long?
* Also, Trujillo to Vilcabamba - how long is this, is it too long? If so, where else to stop off and for how long?
* Should we stop off in Riobamba before reaching Quito to take the famous train ride back up, or is it best to do it the other way around?
-----------------------------------

San Agustin, Colombia (2 days)
Bogata, Colombia (3 days)
Cartegena, Colombia (2 days)
-----------------------------------
QUESTIONS SO FAR:
* Is it really dangerous to travel through Colombia on an overnight tourist bus, or are these warnings mainly for local transportation?
* Bogata to Cartegena - how long, and anywhere to stop in between worth mentioning?
-----------------------------------

Merida, Venezuela (1 day)
Caracas, Venezuela (2 days)
Los Roques, Venezuela (3-4 days)
----------------------------------
QUESTIONS SO FAR:
* Cartegena to Merida - how long?
--------------------------------

OVERALL QUESTIONS:
* Is this realistic? The days I've put down are estimates, we aren't pre-booking anything at this stage (only flights and accom from flights) so not too sure how long we will stay in certain places.
* Is it realistic to expect to catch overnight tourist buses on our journey (especially long journeys)?
* If we turned up to the airport to book a flight, are prices usually more expensive or less so than booking through your travel agent at home?

Thanks in advance 😊 Reply to this

16 years ago, May 16th 2007 No: 2 Msg: #13983  
Hello there Kiwis, like your plan.
I am planning a trip to New Zealand in January 2008, so you can give me some advice in return...

The main problem I see about your trip is that you have long jumps, that can take a day or two, maybe more,
that are not counted in your 3 months quota.

But, I'll try to help you about the things I know.
Stage One.
Buenos Aires, Argentina (3-4 days)
Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay (1-2 days)
(then back to BA to fly to La Paz)
La Paz, Bolivia (4 days)
Villa Tunari (15-16 days volunteering)
Uyuni (3 day tour of salt flats, ending in Chile)

- I can't see here traveling distance from BA to Uruguay. I think that you wrote this like you're being teleported ("Beam us up, Scotty").
That is not how things work in SA. And also, since I have impression that you're human beings, you have to prepare for the trip,
get tickets and so on, travel, then have some rest. Making connections in SA can include many delays, or the trip from A to B can result in two or more steps including places C and D...
To give you impression: I traveled from La Paz to Cochabamba, with stopover in Oruro, and it took me a whole day. From Cochabamba to Santa Cruz, it took me half a day. Transfers by land are not easy, they depend on departure times and many other things. Leave when full - that is a phrase often used in those countries. So, if a bus is scheduled for 10am, you can start at noon. Nobody takes care 'bout that.
Those questions that you have in Step one can be answered mainly when you arrive there. My recipe is that everywhere I arrive, I go to check for next transfer - immediately! Then I take a shower, if there is one.

Step two
San Pedro de Atamaca, Chile (3 days)
Arequipa, Peru (4-5 days)
Puno, Peru (4 days - Floating island o/nite tour)
Cuzco, Peru (4 days - bus/train to Machu Picchu)
Huacachina, Peru (2 days)

Be aware that from Chile to Peru you travel through Arica and Tacna. When I crossed that boarder last time, since we stayed in Arica, we had to rent a cab to go to the Peruvian side, there have formalities, and proceed to the bus terminal. It took us 6 hours to do this. If taking a bus line from Chile be aware that there might be inspection of the cargo that can last 4 hours at least. Then, you can proceed to Arequipa.
Yes these are a long trips, you can be sure that along Panamericana bus service is good and frequent. Cuzco - Huacachina?
First, that is almost a suburb of Ica, not distant by taxi, but yet it is expensive to stay there. In Ica there are many other things to see, like wine cellars, museo Cabrera, and so on. (Go directly from Cuzco if possible, I think it is.)

Trujillo, Peru (2 days)
Vilcabamba, Ecuador (1-2 days)
Quito, Ecuador (5 days)
Huacachina - Trujillo? First of all, bus service is to Lima, and from Lima. From Ica to Lima there is 4 hours of nice ride, I had travelled with Soyuz. Leaves every seven minutes from terminal! It costs about 25-30 soles. First class. (Since then the prices got higher, but not too much.)
From Lima to Trujillo - 8 hours (I used Ormeno, but there are many others). Along Panamericana - it is easy.
But, why you exclude Lima from your plan? It is a splendid city, with many nice things - at least to visit Plaza de Armas, the Cathedral, and to eat sweet ham in Cordano Bar near presidential pallace.
Trujillo in just two days? Yes, with a visit to Chan Chan and to buy tickets for next bus.
On the way to Quito you can stop in Chiclayo, Riobamba is fine town, but I don't know if "Devil's Nose" is still operating. There are other nice places along that road, but I haven't been there...
Your steps about Colombia and Venezuela - I can not answer since I haven't been there, and to tell you frankly - I'm not so eager about that. But, I'm sure that those are nice countries.
But there is another question: how long to stretch the trip? Sometimes less is more, you'll see that along the way.

Main thing about your plan is that you made your schedule but it looks to me like a job to do - not a really relaxed adventure. SA is relaxed - you can find yourself in a small town that is really interesting, distant from hordes of tourists (and industry that follows), and it can be better experience than Cuzco. I.e., my best time in SA was in Riobamba - we had to stay there because of political instability (roads were closed) for nine days. We had a basketball game with the locals, fiestas, bullfighting in Guano, we were visiting almost nameless and not known places that gave us impression of real life in Ecuador. The same was in Peru, in Huamachuco, Pataz, Juanjui, Ica, Santa Clara and so on. The point is - what you want to do there? If you're into archeology, go for it. If you're into partying and meeting people, OK. But be aware that tourist places can be disappointment.
Your trip is realistic if you have decided to make it three months of rushing from place to place on a schedule, not making any turns and stopovers in other places. But, believe me SA offers more, in all places you arrive you'll find more and more things to see.
Yes, it is good to book the flights there, but sometimes, and it depends of the season, some flights must be booked one week in advance. To book anything else but flights is very stupid, since you can find cheap places apart from hotels and fancy places you find on the net.
In conclusion: forget the way you travel in your country, or Europe, SA is different.

My experience is that we always made similar itinerary, but along the road we had to change it. Or the transfers were late, or we wanted to see something else. When we come to some town or place, then we look for place to stay. We never choose in advance. Sometimes it is good, sometimes less, but in SA bed is not the most important thing.

Greetings from Croatia,
Mike65
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16 years ago, May 16th 2007 No: 3 Msg: #13987  
Thanks Mike for all that information.
This is kind of a rough outline, which since posting it has changed a bit now after researching travelling times!!
We did want to travel mostly on night buses, but since that isn't always an option we are looking at missing things and flying from certain destinations. We want to see as much as possible in the 3 months we have but we don't want to be tired from travelling all the time either so hence taking flights.

What do you think we should miss?
At this stage we are thinking of missing Colombia just purely because this is one country to worry about and also because it has the least we want to see.
Do you see any other potential problems for us, especially in Peru - we feel we are doing a lot of travelling here. Reply to this

16 years ago, May 16th 2007 No: 4 Msg: #13991  
OK, if you ask me, security of the gringos, and we are all gringos - is worst in Colombia. And yet, it is a beautiful country, but some dangers exist there. Peru is relativly safe, unless you take night strolls in Victoria (where some gypsies curse in Croatian language, can you believe it). But basicly there is no reason for avoiding Lima, I've been staying not only in Miraflores (which is considered as the safest) but in Jesus Maria, Lince and elsewhere. No watches, expensive and different outfit, credit cards, golden items, fancy accessory, use the taxis, don't stay too late in dubious places and you're safe with Lima. Small towns give more safety, and since I've been to Juanjui (where police station looks like a bunker) - I know what I'm speaking of. Times of terrorist activities are gone. Now, the poor people organize themselves in legal political options, like one of Ollanta Humala, who was supposed to be Peruvian Chavez. But, it failed. Even his admirers and followers are very normal and OK persons to talk with.
I do not know how they treat US citizens (it is good when they call you "gringo", but when you hear "yankee" - move out). Being from Croatia, some people considered me a Russian. Which is acceptable. Ha, ha.
Do not ask yourself what you should miss. I can tell you that there are people who really enjoyed their trip to Colombia, and others who had unpleasant episodes in Bolivia or Ecuador. It mostly depend of your attitude and traveling skills. That is: be polite, have patience, but say no when you mean no, be decisive, don't let locals to take away money for nothing. Ask about the prices, learn as much Spanish as you can, respect locals, but show them that you are in charge of your trip.
There are some places in Peru I haven't been to, but they're interesting. For example, did you know the town of Oxapampa in the middle part of Peruvian Andes was founded by Germans? There is still some gothic architecture. That is my next place to visit in Peru. Also Arequipa, under three volcanoes, with the deepest canyons in the world. That made me remember to tell you: when in La Paz do not avoid one day excursion to the Tiwanaku, almost on the shore of Titicaca. Archeology at it's best. And beautiful Altiplano along the way.
Of course, one more reminder: i do not advice you to go to La Paz directly from BA, unless having some aclimatisation to altitude. La Paz airport is in El Alto, 4.000 m altitude, center of the town on 3.600 m. Since you have many mountains, especially on your Southern Island, make some effort and do some climbs.
I do not know how much do you like climbing, but Misty above Arequipa is something to climb. Technically easy, since it is a volcano, but demanding and very spiritual experience.
If not traveling to Colombia, take a flight from Quito to Caracas.
There are many possibilities, but just enjoy and keep safe and cautios, yet not paranoid.

My question to you: We plan to visit New Zealand in January 2008. We plan to arrive to Auckland from Sydney, Australia. We have our croatian-australian friends there, and we will be able to find cheaper flight and book it on time. But we have no idea what to see there - we concluded that we have time just to spend up to two weeks on Northern Island. We have to pick one of the volcanoes to climb, some national parks. But we do not know much about public transportation (I know there is good train service Auckland - Wellington). Is it possible to do anything on bycicles, is it expensive to rent a small car (although I do not know who will be driving on the left side, sorry, never had that experience), is it expensive to lodge outside bigger towns... In Auckland we have a Croatan community, I think that some 40 thousand Croats live in New Zealand. That is good for us - everywhere we go we have our folks. I.e. Argentina - 300.000, Chile - 50.000, Peru - 4.000 etc. It is a great help when you travel.

But also, there are our friends of all nationalities, and we respect that. That is what friends are for, isn't it?
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16 years ago, May 16th 2007 No: 5 Msg: #13997  
Hey there Mike,

Thanks for all that information. I'm going to sit down and read some more of these travel books and have a look online and add in some small places - you've inspired me! That, and I don't want to be rushing around all the time. A little is OK, but I personally don't want to be on a bus for a long period of time ALL the time either. So thank you for your advice - it's made me "get real"!

Re: New Zealand. Can I ask why you're going to the North Island rather than the South Island? Only because even though the North Island is nice (but to be perfectly honest I've never bothered travelling there so I aren't really that much help to you!) but the South Island has so much more to offer if you're into smaller towns, and vast landscape. Usually accommodation costs are the same everywhere, for example a bed in a backpackers would cost about $20-25NZD p/p. If you're going with a group though it's usually cheaper to get a cabin at a "Top 10 Holiday Park" (http://www.top10.co.nz/) which are about $50 per cabin, or a motel that sleeps 2 can be as cheap as $70-80NZD and may even sleep 3. So that is also something to think about. And a great website I found was this (free accommodation and what a great idea!) http://www.couchsurfing.com/
Public transport in the North Island? Not too sure, but I would imagine it isn't fantastic and hiring a car would be the best way to get to places - and it's not that far to drive since the country is so small.
You could bike, we always see alot of people travelling this way in the South Island. If you're camping instead (since it's summer) then this would be a great option as there are usually plenty of places to stop and you could camp for free. To rent a car at that time a year is about $40-60NZD per day, fuel is (at the moment) $1.63 per litre - so more expensive than elsewhere.
http://www.budget.co.nz/default.aspx
http://www.linklowcostrentals.co.nz/
http://www.nzrentacar.co.nz/

I hope all that helps 😊

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16 years ago, May 21st 2007 No: 6 Msg: #14127  
Ok I will add some advice on two things.

* Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay (1-2 days)... for me too long, a beautiful place and you should definately check it out, personally i would treat it as a day trip if you would like to save time. read my blog if you would like some info. Activities wise you would be finished in 1 day. ask around but from memory you can still use your argentine pesos there but ask around... i changed because i kicked on in uruguay.
To get there you can catch the Buquebus across from BA to Colonia (1 hour fast boat 3hours for the slow one) ask around for the port definately the way to go.

* Bogata, Colombia... definately go!!!! this is my favorite part of my trip... beautiful clean city, for me i thought it was safe after travelling through brazil (more police etc, just ask around for safety advice... but don't get too hyped up.) but check out the botero museum, the candelaria area, the zona rosa... three days is perfect here. chilly though 15 degrees all year round. again read my blog for more info.

the buses at night... i caught one and survived (i know what you are talking about tho... from what my colombian friend told me... colombia has a bad rap it has changed alot over the last few years on the main routes bogota --> medellin/cali/cartegena i would say you'd be safe again ask around but personally i would catch a night bus.)

if you have any questions about my answers leave a post and i would be happy to answer... but read my blogs for more on what my trip was like tho.

overall questions... Alright this is going to sound really bad to the Venezuelan's but leaving Venezuela till last is probably a good thing... I didn't meet anyone that enjoyed travelling through there and that is why when i too was time limited skipped it... apparently the new president isn't that crash hot so if you missed out on that i don't think it would be the worst but yeah... when ever i read post like this i tend to ignore them and find out for myself so i don't blame you if you don't listen to my last point.

the rest of the stuff i couldn't tell you if it was too much or not enough but i hope the places i wrote about helps you.

ciao matt 😊



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16 years ago, May 21st 2007 No: 7 Msg: #14146  
Thanks Matt, love your blog - very entertaining! 😊 Haven't read it all yet but making my way through it now.

Have since changed our plans (have ended up taking Venezuela out completely as we just don't have time!) Good to know how many days you think we should stay (roughly) in the main places we have listed which may give us a better idea of our mock-up plan. 😊

Thanks again! Reply to this

16 years ago, May 21st 2007 No: 8 Msg: #14149  
Hi Friends,

I really don´t think you should skip Venezuela, I have been traveling there before and now I am going back. It is a wounderfull countrie with so friendly citisens. If you dont fel like you have time to travel trough the whole countrie I would recomend Los Roqes, that lace is amasing! and you would defenatly need it after your heavy traveling! If you are inte diving it is also a great place to go, if you have any futher questiones conserning Venezuela dont be affraid to ask!

otherwise, have a nice trip!
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