The book that those photos come from,
Hungary Planet is actually quite good. But I disagree with the Time's articles general tone that changing cuisines means that culture and heritage is necessarily being "lost." These types of nostalgic decries rest on the presumption that culture, cuisine, and even nations are static, fixed entities impervious to change. I somewhat disagree with the suggestion that:
those cultural exchanges have exploded, leading to something closer to cultural homogenization. That's bad for not only the preservation of national identities but the preservation of health too
I've read some very well researched works that counter this notion of cultural homegenization. If you look at the way McDonald's, for instance, is used and interpreted is Beijing, Moscow and the anytown USA, you're going to run across some striking differences. While the food might be recognizable, the way it is incorporated into culture is completely different.
Health - well now perhaps. But main issues with famines
everywhere and food scarcity in many places are the result of political actions. I would suggest that it is cheap corn and grain subsidies exported from the U.S that undercuts local African farmers' profit, disrupting an agrarian economy thus restricted cash circulation. And that is problematic. Now this idea that industrialization is inherently bad and that folks can't get real food but can always get Coke (and that this is somehow aberrant) speaks of this idea rooted in Maslaw's Hierarchy that "the poor" shouldn't desire or want for anything other than basic necessities, and that if they do, it is the result of poor education and a not knowing better rather than a conscious choice on how to spend income.
Are new food technologies changing the way we eat? Yes. But so did agriculture, refrigeration and water sanitation. The "meal away from home" was instituted in order to adapt to changes in processing, factories and other labor shifts when it became impractical to travel home for the day. And you see that as far back as the 17/18th century. Were people decrying it then? Naturally. But we would never think of restaurants as detrimental to food culture - now they very much
defined food culture in parts of the world.
So while I think this article brings some interesting observations to light, it also has a few holes. But awesome to see references to Carole Counihan and Ken Albala unexpectedly! Each have some excellent books on food culture and food history, and the later at least is a real amusement. Ever so witty, but well informed.
[Edited: 2011 Jul 09 01:41 - Stephanie and Andras:35953 ]
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