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Published: April 26th 2011
flamingoes!
Eating through their noses in Souther Bolivia Well, my friends, after six months of travelling through South America, Thor and I have returned to the beautiful state of Alaska. Thor is already down in Homer, working hard on his boats and getting ready for another summer of salmon fishing and oyster farming. I have been visiting mom in North Pole, and will soon go down to Homer to start another season of kayak guiding. The good life continues!
The last time I caught up on the blog we were in the northern Argentine city of Salta. We left Salta and travelled north to cross into Bolivia. It was my birthday around that time, so we decided to do something out of character and go on a tour. We travelled all through the southwestern corner of Bolivia, visiting the salt flats, red lakes and strange land formations. During that time, we were at very high altitude, always above 12,000 feet, it truely looked and felt like a different world. We saw many llamas roaming the land and flamingoes filter feeding through their nose. Also, we had the pleasure of being outside when a duststorm hit. Our jeep broke down the last day, kind of a sign of
the quality of the tour, but we spent our time laughing with our new friends from the trip.
When we finished our tour we decided to spend some time volunteering, so we went to Parque Ambue Ari, a cat refuge in the Bolivian jungle. There we spent a month volunteering with pumas, also at the park were jaguars, ocelots, monkeys and birds. All of the animals were rescued from terrible situations; poachers, the circus, inhumane Bolivian zoos. Thor worked with a puma named Sayan who was very small because he was kept in a small cage, to be later sacrificed. Sayan was a hard cat to worked with, he really did not trust or like people and enjoyed to chew on them. Volunteers before and after Thor have sustained bites and scratches and have had to get stitches. Thor's patience and no-bull attitude left him rather unscathed and the park managers were grateful for the positive difference he made. I worked with 4 different pumas, one a young male, Koru, who was in the process of being trained and learning that girls were not chew toys, he left me a few scars so I would never forget him. An
a day in the jungle life
Walking through mystery water with Koru. unusual case, were the sisters, 3 pumas who had been raised together and were caged together. They were used to their lives in captivity and were relatively mild to work with, they gave a lot of affection. A usual day consisted of waking up at 6:30 and going to the cats cage, scattered about the jungle, to let them out for their walks. We were there in rainy season, so all the trails I walked were swamped with brown, murky, jungle juice... sometimes up to my waist. After feeding them, we would have our lunch, and then go back out to the other cats (Thor worked with Sayan all day) where again we would walk them through the jungle. Sometimes the sun was shining and the jungle was a steamy 90 degrees, other times the rain poured with more intensity than I have ever seen, but at all times there were mosquitos. We wore 3 layers and headnets to protect from bites and any stray body part that slipped out of the moquito net over our beds at night was swollen with dozens of bites by the next morning. Life in the jungle was a challenge; the mosquitos relentless, no
Thor and Rocky
One of the adorable little mokeys that had to be 'mothered' around camp. electricity, constant heat and humidity, long days and ongoing stomach problems. But those amazing creatures are going to be in those cages for the rest of their lives, not able to be released, so it was a small sacrifice to be able to work with them. And living in the jungle was unbelievable; everyday we saw snakes longer than I was tall, wild pairs of macaws, unimaginable bugs, woke up to howler monkeys, and fell asleep as fireflies danced.
After our month was up, I was quite sick and we were both ready for some relaxation. We travelled to a small village, Samaipata, and camped at organic gardens, reading books, practicing juggling, healing and just taking life slow.
We regained strength and felt ready to venture out into Bolivia once again, so we travelled to La Paz, the capital. The translation of La Paz, is the "The Peace" and let me tell you it is anything but peaceful. The city is built in the bottom of a huge canyon, and it has expanded up the sides. It is at 12,000 ft so walking up the steep streets leaves you breathless and naseous. At the same time, the sun
Howler
A beautiful howler money that roamed through camp. is unbearably strong and hot, but in the shade the high mountain air is frigid. Every street is a market. One can buy pajamas, guinea pigs (a delicacy), fresh squeezed orange juice or a llama fetus for protection. In a word, the city is chaotic, but maybe that is it's beauty. After 4 nights, one attempted pickpocketing and one too many cat calls we sought out a more serene place.
So, we travelled to Isla del Sol on Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world and the birthplace of the Inca culture. Upon arrival, I was crushed, hundreds of tourists go for the day, snap photos, eat a pizza and leave their garbage, and the locals are okay with that. We came prepared with days of food and wine and set off for a more remote part of the island, reached after only a few hours of hiking. There, it was impossible to deny the sacred feeling of the island, the rarified air showing every ripple in the water and the dramatic, everpresent clouds and their reflections. While walking for 4 days, we met only shepardesses who shared a glimpse of their lives on the island, it
Total bliss
Our campsite on Isla del Sol, Bolivia. was their sheep. They walked days around the barren island to find greens for their sheep, napping in the sun, climbing steep slopes intraditional skirts. And what a suprise, one night we arrived at dusk to our camping spot only to discover extensive ruins guarding us from the cliffs above. We left the island with tranquil hearts.
Onward, westward we went to Peru, the final country we would visit. Their we embarked on one last trek, a 5 day haul to remote Incan ruins, Choquequirao. Usually people travel with donkeys who carry their packs for them, we did not, but learned why that is a desirable option. On this particular hike, we went from high mountain ridges, down to a river valley, and back up the other side of the mountain. There we found the ruins, at cloud level, and we explored them in complete solitude; they were incredible. The stone work is mind blowing, so exact and perfectly pieced together, despite the Incans not having metal to work with. What the site is, nobody knows for certain, but I think those who visit had to first prove themselves by completing the pilgrimage to the top of the mountain.
After one ethereal day at the top, we turned around and went back the way we came; this was the hardest physical endeavor I have ever done, but I recommend and cherish this place with all my heart.
We took our tired bodies to Cusco and quickly left for Pisac, a small village just outside the city, with the nature and culture more intact than in 'Cuscolandia.' There we spent our final days journeying amongst those precious ruins, making chocolate and hearty food with friends, letting the Peruvian sun warm our faces as we said goodbye.
The soles of my shoes are smooth and worn and my one, trusty pair pants have tired and busted at the seams, signs that it's time for this journey to end. On this trip I have learned to trust; trust myself, trust the universe to guide me if I will only follow and trust in the good people that exist. I know I have had support from each of you in the form of a thought now and then, or a comment on this blog. From the bottom of my being I thank you and it is because of that support I
Abandoned train
It's got my name on it! return home safe, healthy and inspired. I wish each of you the best and brightest in your endeavors and the courge to do what you have always longed to.
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Aunt Diane
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Positive Footprints
My Dearest Marin...Thank you for this final recap of your remarkable trip to South America. You paint wonderful word pictures along with taking beautiful photos that capture magical moments. May your summer in Homer be a wonderful time to breath in fresh cool air and adventure through the waters around that wonderful place in Alaska. If you ever travel south our door is always open! Have you given thought to writing a book about your travels and all the positive footprints you are leaving upon this earth?