There is a lot I don't understand. I don't understand the thanka paintings on the temple walls. They are frightening- Buddhas depicted with snake tongues, sharp fingernails, ivory skulls, wild eyes. Where are the fat, smiling Buddhas with the Santa Claus bellies I see in the west? I don't understand the spirit of the old woman who spends her days circumambulating a holy site. Each step wracks her body with pain from her sad, 80-year old hips, but she doesn't stop. Her eyes have failed and when she spoke I saw black nubs where teeth should be, but on she walks, only stopping to press her wrinkled brow to the smooth rocks in prayer and devotion. When she asks for money I give the twenty rupees in my pocket but I wish I could just take
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