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Published: March 6th 2010
After a brief love affair with the Santa Marta area, I reluctantly hopped a bus headed west towards Cartagena. Although I realize most Americans probably havent heard of this fairytale land of tropical flora, fauna, and beautiful women, I am still surprised. Cartagena is the most popular tourist destination in Colombia, renowned for its labrynthine streets, its brightly painted 16th century colonial architecture, its well preserved Caribbean culture, and its thriving nightlife and beautiful people. In 1984 it was declared a World Heritage site. Most Cartagenans seem to be extremely proud of their living history, though many people have very little information regarding names, dates, and significant events revolving around this ancient sea town.
I have been a very bad travelor. All this time spent in Cartagena, and I havent been touring at all. I havent been to the famous white sandy beaches of Playa Blanca. I havent gone to the mud baths. I havent even made it out to Isla Rosario for some overpriced but extraordinary diving. Every morning I get up late and walk to the historic city center, past the drug dealers and prostitutes of Getsemani, past the fishermen boats along the port, past the towering Reloj del Torre through which they used to march the slaves off the boats and into town for selling, all the way to Plaza de Bolivar to sit and have my morning coffee. In the church in front of the Plaza during the epoch of the Spanish Inquisition, Catholic priests tried sorcerers and witches. In the plaza itself, they would drag the accused out into the center, tie them to a wooden pyre, and burn them. Nowadays old men feed pigeons and old women sell fresh papaya, mango, and pineapple. Tourists crane their necks to photograph the swirling steeples and spires. Salsa music blares from a nearby bar, and I get propositioned for the millionth time for marijuana and cocaine. I just sit and sip my coffee and admire the brightly painted edifices dripping with exotic flowers and humming birds and marvel at its beauty. When you keep moving and seeing and doing, you miss what its like to just be in a place. I am enjoying being here.
I hear there is a movie out for the book´Love in the Time of Cholera.´ Both Garcia Marquez´s famous novel and the movie take place here, so I imagine if you wanted to get an idea of just how beautiful this place is but dont want to pony up the dough for a plane ticket, you could rent the film. As a Marquez aficionado, it was quite a treat for me to see his house and recognize some of the sites from the book.
I also happened to arrive here during the Cartagena International Film Festival, which has allowed me to view some interesting pieces from Spain, the US, and all over South America. The Cohen Brothers new film was presented here, and it was a treat to see something English speaking without the crappy voiceovers.
I havent had my morning coffee, nor have I been propositioned for coke and weed, which seems to have become a strange part of my morning ritual. Off to Plaza de Bolivar.
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Mom
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Cartagena
Enjoyed your blog. It makes Cartagena sound soooooo, very appealing. I just want to jump on an airplane right now today and land on those sandy beaches of Playa Blanca or have lunch in the beautiful historical section of town. Keep the blogs coming and enjoy!!! Love, Mom