Marydale

Had it not been for a few kayaking buddies from way back when, I dont think I ever would have left the Zona Cafetera. I certainly wouldnt be sitting here in Tena, Ecuador, whitewater kayaking the headwaters of the Amazon River. As the date of our upcoming rendezvous in Quito rapidly approached, I hopped an 8-hour bus ride from Salento to Popayán, breaking up the 24 hour trip from Zona Cafetera to Quito into 3 tolerable days. Popayán is known as ´The White City´for its whitewashed city walls. The entire city plaza is stunningly absent of color, especially last week; Popayán is most famous for its Semana Santa, or Holy Week, processions. Last week the streets were rumbling under high scaffoldings as painters chipped, spackled, smattered, and refinished every wall in the city center in a ... read more

The last few days have been blissfully internet-free. As a matter of fact, there wasnt even much electricity involved after we left Manizales. Up on a high mountain in the Andes I met a fellow travelor from the states named Scott. He is a travel guide back in the states, and after a few rum-induced philosophical discussions on life, the universe, and the joys of alcohol, we decided to travel together for a spell. Our first few days could only be described in the magical realism style of Gabriel Garcia Márquez. Palm trees with leaves the size of sedans lined the swerving two-laned roads as we descended into the valley of Zona Cafetera, Colombia´s largest coffee region. Our driver and guide sped through twists and turns and finally we arrived at a little Finca (farm) called ... read more

After a brief love affair with the Santa Marta area, I reluctantly hopped a bus headed west towards Cartagena. Although I realize most Americans probably havent heard of this fairytale land of tropical flora, fauna, and beautiful women, I am still surprised. Cartagena is the most popular tourist destination in Colombia, renowned for its labrynthine streets, its brightly painted 16th century colonial architecture, its well preserved Caribbean culture, and its thriving nightlife and beautiful people. In 1984 it was declared a World Heritage site. Most Cartagenans seem to be extremely proud of their living history, though many people have very little information regarding names, dates, and significant events revolving around this ancient sea town. I have been a very bad travelor. All this time spent in Cartagena, and I havent been touring at all. I havent ... read more

I don't know why, but the status of my previous entry is "publishing in progress." So this journal may show up twice. My first day here dispelled a lot of rumors surrounding the kidnapping, narco-trafficking, guerilla metropolis of South America that is Bogota. From the airport, we took a taxi from Northern Bogota to Candelaria, the southernmost district of the city which is renowned for its socially elite class and high levels of violence. Our taxi driver, a gold-toothed gregarious man from a nearby farming suburb, informed us that just over two years ago you couldn´t pass one block of Candelaria where a police officer wasn´t standing vigilant on every corner... and people were still being robbed in the middle of the day. I had no problems in the streets whatsoever and found almost everyone I ... read more

So, I guess you've probably heard by now that I'm out of the military, have bought a ticket to South America, and am traveling to God-knows-where for an indefinite period of time. That's about all I can tell you right now. You are invited to watch the unraveling of a potentially corny joke: an ex-linguist and an arborculturalist walk into a Spanish-speaking rainforest... Leaving in a few hours... guess I should try to get some rest. ... read more