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Published: July 14th 2012
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Leaving Cuenca, we headed south for about five hours to Loja, an overnight stop on the way to the Peruvian border. The next day bus ride would be ten hours, so we hit the sack earlier and caught an early 7 AM bus for Piura, in Peru. All was well until an hour out of Loja when our bus broke down. We made it up a steep grade but finally conked out at a non descript town where both drivers went to work repairing the vehicle. After several yanks, cranks, and prayers, the engine would not cooperate so the driver declared our trip a bust and to find other means. What a bummer. We learned the next bus to Piura would be leaving at 1 PM, putting us into Piura at an ungodly late hour. But with no other reasonable alternative, we waited along the roadside as the bus drivers kept up whatever they were doing under the bus. All other passengers grabbed local chicken busses except for Amei, myself and three other who wanted to go to Peru. After killing an hour with about five more to kill, the bus drivers emerged from under the carriage announcing excitedly that they
had fixed the bus and we could continue on. How cool. We were on our way again, and comfortably so for the whole bus was practically empty. Great mechanics these Ecuadorian bus drivers.
Thankfully the bus cooperated all the way to the border without incident. The Ecuadorian Peruvian border crossing at Macara is dusty, basic, a like most a bit challenging and confusing. Exit stamps came easy enough for us for our Ecuadorian visas were in order. The challenge started on the Peruvian side at customs. Greeted by a young guy in civilian clothes who I thought was just being helpful turned out to be the customs officer. A uniform might of helped his appearance, but nonetheless we just are all smiles hoping to obtain our Peruvian visas without trouble. After filling out tiny and lengthy entrance forms, the officer waived me into his office and began questioning with a hint of interrogation. How long do you plan to stay-one month, first time to Peru - yes, where will you leave Peru- Bolivia and on and on. Until finally he smiled and stated he'll give me 180 days. And please pay $10 dollars. I stammered, thinking one
I didn't need a six month visa and if that was why it was ten dollars well then can I get a month for a discount or for free. No, the officer wrote 180 days and asked for ten dollars before saying welcome to Peru. This is one of those situations where you know your getting scammed, but the scam being so cheap that it's worth accepting since border officials have your fate in their hands. Officially there are no entrance fees into Peru. Anyway, with six months visas in hand Amei and I bordered our bus for another three hour journey to Piura, our first stop in Peru.
The road to Piura is in stark contrast to the mountainous roads of Ecuador. From the border the road drops down to sea level and changes to dry desert conditions with sand in all directions. The Peruvian countryside looks poorer, with many homes made from adobe mud, sticks and assortment of discarded debris. The scenery outside the bus is barren, dry, fouled by rotting garbage and trash thrown here and there. It's a bit depressing, wondering how people survive is such a bleak landscape. We finally arrive in
Piura, check into our hostel and head out for dinner. We had I thought a tasty beef dinner with frys, until later that night my stomach was twisting, turning and tightening in so many knots that I thought I turned blue. The dreaded food poisoning had struck, humbling me with all night visits to the head. The next day was just a bad with cramps, headaches and exhaustion. Suffice is to say it took me three days to fully recover. Piura was thus no more than a stay-cation for a sickee. Next stop Hauraz.
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Kathlyn Ignacio
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Peru
Ok, I fell in love with Peru and only saw a snippet of the country. Here are my Peruvian contacts. Marco Bustamate runs tour company called Peruvian Odyssey. His email is marcob@peruvianodyssey.com and he will remember me as a member of the Pete Smith group that came for Inca Trail trip this last May. Also, our guide's name is Fernando. He lives in Aguas Calientes and his email is Hatunchako@hotmail.com. I love reading your blogs! Stay safe. Keep your valuables CLOSE and in eye sight at all times. 2 strikes already!!!!