Tayrona National Park

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Arrecifes

We took the bus to the entrance of the National Park, paid the Gringo tax (20,000 pesos entrance fee each if you´re a tourist, 20 pesos for anyone else) and waited for the jeep to take us to the junction where you walk to Arrecifes beach. Well, we waited and waited and no one seemed to know when the jeep would arrive, but the rangers were sure it would. Which sure enough, 2hrs later it did.

The walk to the beach was hot and sweaty and of course, accompanied by mosquitos. Probably won´t have pics uploaded until tomorrw but it was amazing. Our hammocks overlooked the rolling waves of the white sand beach, dotted by these huge bolders. The tropical jungle (palm trees and forest) hugged the edge of the beach making it an incredibly untouched view.

We spent two nights here, the first day doing the walk to La Piscina (a natural bay where you can swim in the incredibly clear waters, avoiding the strong rip current elsewhere) and then having dinner accompanied by a bottle of rum and sleep.

Now, I say sleep, but it was more a brief sleepette. I was woken up by the cold at 2.30am and then spent an hour trying to find a comfortable position that still allowed my bare feet to steal some warmth from the sides of the hammock. Finally, I seemed to be drifting off to the sound of our plastic bags rustling in the wind, or what I thought was wind. Only to be aware of something wiggling the rope of my hammock and then the feel of something heavy running down the rope to my head and yes, it was on my face! I jumped out of the hammock, saying in classic English :

Oh, my goodness. What on earth was that?

After an hour, I had calmed down eough to shine my head torch at whatever was making the rustling noises, I was conving myself it was a large ghekko (although something in the back of my mind was not having it as I knew that thing had been a big boy). The light showed that it was not, in fact, a ghekko but a rat. How disgusting. I had had a god damn rat on my face. Well, that was that, I couldn´t sleep until it was just starting to get light and then of course, every position was comfortable but because of the heat and light it was impossible to sleep.

The second day, we walked to La Peublito, a 2hr steep climb through the forest. La Peublito is at the top of the hill. An indiginous tribe of Kogis had been driven out years ago, but have reclaimed it and now inhabit it again. The pics show the houses they live in and it will blow your mind that people, in this century, live in such a basic way. That is not supposed to sound like I´m looking down on it, it just amazes me that civilization doesn´t seem to have touched them much, they sleep on the floor eat what they catch and grow and have no use for money. However, knowing me they probably all had mobiles but I just didn´t see them!

Can thoroughly recommend the National Park, not a guerilla or Paramilitar in sight. Incredibly relaxing, if not a touch expensive.

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Photos

Santa Marta
A typical street

The Columbian Army
Taken on the bus back from the National Park

The rat episode
Hammocks with a view to the sea, National Park all around.

Tayrona National Park
Where did those big boulders come from?

La Peublito
The re-claimed town by the Kogi indigenous tribe.

Comments

[Roz]

Nutter!
Great to hear from you... god I wish I was there, sounds amazing... rats crawlind over your face...urgh..! What a wild and crazy adventure you're having... I've been in the pub until now(7 hours) watching England versus Australia play cricket, yes I know cricket, but its been amazingly interesting and very exciting! sad but true, really got into it and its been really big here... and we won the ashes!!!! met this really interseting guy, and yes I fancied him, Irish charmer....but I then discoversd he had a girlfriend and a disfunctional relationship.... great, and I heard all about how differcult it was.... why why why ... do I meet these blokes who flirt with me but then tell me they're attached. Shit... sorry Jo I'm getting on one now... this is meant to be a comment on your trip and I'm going on in my pissed state!! I love your commentry of your travels and want to know more, I would also love to meet you and share an apartment and have some adventures with you in SA..... I will have to do some hard work and get some money together and get out there... Who are you travelling with? is this guy with you? signing off now... its getting a bit tricky to type noew now...a fweqw pints down he lofcal and it s all over place !!1 xxxx

[Jackie]

Response to previous comment
Hi Roz - just to let you know that the comments you make are very very public - and this blog gets read by lots of different people... :-) Hi Jo keep the news coming. I've just finished a badminton mini-tournament. Didn't win, but didn't come last. Played okay - could have won. Didn't, but could have! But didn't.. Take care of yourself..

[suzie]

mexico mayhem
joe you make me feel right. I cant wait to see you in person.... tomorrow