Whispers of Colombia


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South America » Colombia » Cartagena
March 17th 2016
Published: March 18th 2016
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The plan was to stay in Cartagena for 3 days. We quickly learnt however that the only way to enjoy Cartagena was to live it and that sure enough was going to take longer than 3 days.

Over the last 10 months of travelling, we kept hearing whispers about Colombia.  How it was untouched, how friendly the people were and what a hidden gem it was in South America. 

Limiting our trip to a year however did not allow time to visit Colombia. After all we wanted to visit Peru and Bolivia first and foremost and we only had a few months left. 

After arriving in Mexico, slightly exhausted and not having a real plan or an agenda, the moment we heard another mention of Colombia, a decision was made. We had to include this on our agenda. 

Flying over to Cartagena, Colombia we crossed our fingers hoping we would actually like it. 

After a smooth exit out of the airport we made a beeline to the cabs and were confronted with a taxi driver speaking far too fast for us to acknowledge a word he uttered. We looked at the taxi driver confused as ever. Seeing our confused states he quickly switched on his broken English, and although slightly deflated by falling at our first Spanish speaking hurdle we were able to negotiate a good price and get to our booked hostel in the old town El Viejero. Not a great start. Maybe DIY spanish was not all we thought it would be.

Arriving in the taxi, our first impressions of the old town and Colombia was how built up it was. We passed by the sea front and noticed many young Colombian couples and families relaxing by the sea, having a picnic and typically as people do all around the world, posing for pictures. Looking out we passed by many shopfronts and many shabby looking bars playing music, all with stools on the street front with Colombian men and women sat outside happily conversing. It had a lovely atmosphere to it but at the back of our minds we could not help feel still somewhat reserved. This was one of the most dangerous countries in the world remember.  

Looking away from the sea we spotted huge boulders that had been built together to create the old city walls.  Stood within them and on top of it were yet more people relaxing enjoying the views onto the sea and within the city walls. People drinking beer, deep in thought or happily conversing.

Passing through an arched gate, we were mesmerised by the colours and beautiful architecture of the old city. Our eyes were directed to the rows of buildings that lined the narrow cobblestone streets, the quaint but large wooden doors, the balconies with hanging flowers and beautiful bright colours of blues, pinks, oranges and greens. These different colours created individual distinct looks in what could have been a row of identical houses. We smiled at each other happy to be in another country, itching to see what it had to offer us. It looked more relaxed and safer than we thought.

The plan was to stay in Cartagena for 3 days. Little did we know that we would fall in love with this place and stay longer than the initial sweeping visit. 

The first 3 days we had here flew by in no time. We spent our time wandering the quaint cobblestone streets that brought us to various bustling plazas, as people relaxed in some of them making the most of the greenery here and the great social ambience. 

This town clearly ran off tourism and was no longer inhabited, many houses had been converted into restaurants and shops nestled between churches that seemed to be placed at every block corner. Colombians here were clearly very religious we thought to ourselves.

As we wondered the streets we always had to keep to the sides of them to avoid the tourist laden horse carriages that trotted around every bend. What was nice about the tourism here was that it was a nice mixture of both Colombian and international tourism. Furthermore although there were many expensive boutique style shops and expensive restaurants you could always find a local eatery and clothes stores with good budget prices. 

There were no fast-food chains except for one Subway - shame on you Cartagena for allowing one of these chain to find custom here. Ha

During our initial stay we took a 2 hour free walking tour of the old town. This took us across the main plazas highlighting the significance of some of the buildings, the squares, people remembered (such as Simon Boliviar) and the events that took place here.
Captivating imagesCaptivating imagesCaptivating images

Why did I not buy one
For instance the signing of Cartagenas independence documents. Colombia had such a rich history and we were really intrigued. 

Two things that really stood out to us was Colombia’s fight for Independence and secondly was Colombia’s role in the freedom of slaves and thus this mixed make-up of ethnicities within Colombia. 

Looking around us at the many Colombians, this was clearly visible we thought to ourselves. There was a whole mix of shades from light to dark and everything in between. All hair types and skin complexions varying from one person to another. 

We really liked this about Colombia, it felt very diverse in culture, race, and food. It all blended together so effortlessly. 

Okay so that’s one thing we liked, but what was it that changed our minds and kept us there longer than 3 days??

Well, we loved the vibrancy of the place, how alive it felt and the friendliness of the people. How we could walk around hassle free with not one person batting an eyelid at us unlike other countries we had visited. 

We felt very comfortable and after a while started to believe we lived there. Also we fell in love with the music, the rhythm to it making us want to dance. I suppose that’s all we could like; not understanding much of what was being said. 

As we wondered the streets we heard varying types of music drawing us in. The deep soulful blues with voices echoing from expensive rooftop bars, the rhythmic fast stepping tunes of salsa, the make-you-want-to-gyrate reggaeton and something which sounded like a Caribbean/salsa mashup known as Champeta. 

We also got a taste of the different dance styles here starting with 2 tasters classes in our hostel. 

We wondered what the pre warm up to the first one was all about. We thought it was just going to be a mild mixed latin dance lesson. By the end we had sweat dripping off us both from the all over body 'work out' in the humid evening air. That whole class lasted just over an hour.

However, we enjoyed the challenge of mastering the quick steps, spins and beautiful styles of salsa to the hip flicking moves of Bachata and the slow romantic movements of Meringue as well as the knee locking and bogling of Champeta. We were left wanting
So many fruits to choose from in ColombiaSo many fruits to choose from in ColombiaSo many fruits to choose from in Colombia

Some not available anywhere else
more which resulted in a search for a local dance school (crazy salsa) where we could join in on more group sessions. 

Something else that left us desiring more was where we were staying. We were staying in an overpriced hostel where the staff spoke to us in English. We can't blame them our Spanish was so painstakingly slow and confusing. Plus within our hostel were many English speaking travellers and a great social travel vibe. 

After having a taste of the real Colombia in dribs and drabs we wanted more than an English speaking air conditioned retreat. This hostel could have been anywhere in the world, we came to Colombia and wanted to experience more of it. This was not really possible staying here.

After 3 days we moved to a lodging just outside of the old town in Getsemani (a place many other travellers in our hostel thought was too dangerous to visit) to a Spanish speaking hostel. Although we struggled at check in with our Spanish and understanding the women behind the desk we managed to secure ourselves 2 bunk beds in an 8 bed fan cooled dorm. Before we knew it we settled in for 3 more weeks and then some. 

Side note: The weather in Cartagena is intensely humid. A lot of people struggle to leave their air-conditioned haven but we some how got used to it or at least began to put up with it.  Other travellers looked at us in shock when we told them we only had a fan room haha.

This is just what we needed and we loved it. Always conversing with the many friendly women there who happily conversed with us on a day to day basis and took care of us especially when P was ill.

After travelling for so long in the quick paced style we usually adopt, we knew there would come a point where we would want to settle down a little. We had already relaxed in Mexico, but little did we know this would happen again in Colombia somewhere we never even had on our initial itinerary.

That is the beauty and freedom of long term travel without onward flights. We can't stress how free you feel travelling in this way. If you like a place, stay longer. Don't like it; move on. Bored with the agenda; change the plan, want to be spontaneous; then what is stopping you?

This suited us and without this flexibility we would have gone home a long time ago. Our initial plan for our around the world trip turned out to be nothing like our actual trip. I guess the more we travelled the more our priorities and interests changed.  Sometimes we wanted to be social and other times we wanted to have our own private space without being social.

Plus one thing you never factor into a world trip is how tired you will be. Before we travelled we researched each country in isolation. This cannot always work. For instance, the Philippines was amazing but we visited it too early in our trip when we were still in adventure mode. 

The idea of limited flexibility on a future 2 week vacation is impossible to even fathom for us now. Although we were happy enough with it before, we much prefer the freedom of longer term travel. Something will need to give. 

Anyway, back to Cartagena.

Like I said we wanted to experience life here more. One thing that was stopping us was our limited knowledge of Spanish. We knew a few random useful words but this would not allow us to converse with locals. Before we left we considered taking a Spanish course somewhere in Central America but at the back of our minds we wanted to continue travelling. 

Before we arrived we considered taking up a course in Medellin but enjoying our time in Cartagena too much we soon decided we would spend a week here first. However we got stuck big time. Like I said we had an initial plan of 3 days. Now one week but that soon turned into two then three until we had stayed for a whole month.

There was always an event we could not miss. We could not miss that salsa class, the community Zumba lessons in the plaza de Trinidad, the live music concert, the spanish lesson on the beach, Independence day, the Wednesday night party and then P got ill.

Plus we said to ourselves we still had not seen X,Y and Z yet. Surely you cannot leave a place and not see its main attractions. But we had not seen the main attractions in the first few weeks and still enjoyed it. 

Either way there was always something that had us making excuses and staying longer. For us, the bottom line was that life felt very good and settled here. We had our routine of going to school in the morning, going to a dance class in the afternoon, and a beer or 2 in the evening after strolling the streets and soaking up the atmosphere. This is what we loved about Cartagena; experiencing life here as opposed to the attractions and sightseeing.  

We spent our evenings wandering the old walls initially with Charlotte who we met at the first hostel (also who had fallen for the city’s charm) and then also with our classmate, Beatrice from Switzerland in search of a beer, a coffee or some delicious ice cream and sometimes our spanish teacher Margaret who joined us. 

Ohh the ice cream. I'm sure that’s one thing we will miss about Cartagena. The yummy ice cream. P always went for rum and raisin, Chris a marshmallow bubble gum flavoured treat or chocolate brownie or a slice of cake with ice cream. Yumm.
 
Oh and the food. We mainly ate at the local restaurants and could not believe how cheap a meal was for rice and beans with fish or chicken and plantain - 4000-5000pesos (£1.15). Plus the fruit juices were incredible here, you can't go wrong with a Mango, Pineapple or Orange Shake but to our surprise there was much more. When ordering a glass of fruit juice we always got oversized cups full of the most refreshing juices. P's favourite was Lulo, a tangy citrus like flavour with a sweet frothy pineapple texture to it. Never ate the fruit on its own but for description the closest thing that I can describe it to in appearance is a tomato. Chris's fav juice was the sweet tasting Guanabana, again we'd never ate the actual fruit. Colombia's selection of fruit and vegetables is overwhelming, fruits that don't grow anywhere else and are so affordable too. I doubt
they sell them back home (sad faces).

Cartagena second half will shortly follow.

P.s. Yes or No? Should we post a blog a day for the next 7 days so we can catch up a little? Or do you prefer them spaced out?


Arrival date: 5/11/2015


Additional photos below
Photos: 44, Displayed: 31


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In the popular Plaza de TrinidadIn the popular Plaza de Trinidad
In the popular Plaza de Trinidad

Home to a church, street zumba classes, graffiti, performing artists and all round social place in the evening








18th March 2016

Always listen to the whispers!
People who have never done an around the world trip cannot imagine how tiring it is and some times you the only cure is a beach chair for a couple of weeks and sleep. Sensory overload can take over....you need to rest from the exploration. Looks like a marvelously vibrant city and the vibe spoke to you. Glad you found the perfect place to stay and keep up with the spanish and dancing. Good for you. Do the blogs when you can and we will read....space or no space.
18th March 2016

Listening to the whispers
We're happy you can really relate to the feelings of being tired. Something we did not anticipate and so it hit us quite hard. Yes Cartagena certainly spoke to us. Next few blogs are uploaded so not a problem. It will take 5 minutes. Thanks again for your lovely comment.
18th March 2016

Cartagena magic
Reading your blog, Michele asked me "can we go back?" You really have done and incredible job in describing one of the best places on the planet. Lucky you to spend a month there; green with envy. As with how regular to blog? Go with the flow, blogging can be a pain in the arse when things are good.
18th March 2016

Cartagena magic
Happy you felt the same. Yes we were certainly were very lucky to have that time to really enjoy it. Throughout our following travels we have had to resist the urge to go back. But we will. Over and over again I'm sure. Sounds like you will too. Have many of the next blogs ready so we can more or less catch up easily. Blogging for 14 months on the road so far has certainly been a challenge (especially while learning Spanish which is why we stopped over Christmas). However we are more hopeful now that we will finish this blogging journey as we intended.
19th March 2016

Spaced out is fine...
it's important that you enjoy your trip and not be bound with writing blogs. I love that you have kept up though as your travels have been amazing.
20th March 2016

Spaced out is fine.
Thank you. We are surprised we have managed to do it too. It was a real challenge to keep it up at times. We only have a few weeks left so truthfully want to post as many of them as possible before we get home. The last thing we want to be doing straight away on our return is re-living these amazing moments otherwise we'll get itchy feet too soon!
20th March 2016

Falling in love...
I loved reading about how you fell in love with Cartagena. I have always wanted to park myself in a Spanish speaking country for a month or so and go to Spanish school - your reality of learning, walking, exploring and eating ice cream sounded exactly like my fantasy :) Regarding the frequency of posting blogs, as thrilled as I was to see two of your blogs waiting for me when I logged in, I would maybe space them out every three or four days to give each one maximum exposure on the front page.
20th March 2016

Falling in love..
It was an ideal life of exploring the culture without having to move too much. Definately recommend you travel before mass tourism transforms it into something new. Everyone seems to be saying the same about uploading them so will give some of them a few days. We did notice the blogs where we posted 1 immediately after barely get any reads but then guess the beauty of that is that people have to be looking for it to find it. 😀
21st March 2016

Salsa dancing :)
Looks like my kind of place for sure! Music all around, learning Spanish and dancing (loooove Latin rhythms!) and most importantly not rushing anywhere... That's the way to travel! :) What an incredible place, so vibrant and full of colours! I can hear South America calling me louder and louder with each blog I read... one day :) As for your blogs guys, keep them coming :) you're doing an amazing job! And even though I'm far, far behind with reading, I'll definitely catch up on your older blogs sooner or later, so don't be surprised if you see some comments on a few oldies :)
23rd March 2016

Salsa
Its great to hear that Colombia inspires you. We really loved our time there. I hope you manage to visit. The problem is deciding on where to go next. I'm sure we will have the same problem on our next trip. No worries, look forward to any comments you make. They always make us smile.
23rd March 2016
Great finds on our strolls

Great street art
i enjoyed the street art you found. I took a street art tour in London two years ago and I really liked that tour and I have taken a liking to street art in general since then. The rest of Cartagena Old town seems to be lovely too. Will for sure make a stop there whenever I decide to go to Colombia. /Ake
24th March 2016
Great finds on our strolls

Great street art
Street art can really brighten up a place and offer a lot of inspiration on life and social issues. Bogota and Medellin were particularly good with this too so you should also count them whenever you visit.

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