Colombia - Bogota

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Suzanne here...

We landed in Bogota 12 hours later than expected, at about 11.15pm. Our only choice was to get a taxi. We'd been warned about just flagging one down, but the general consensus seemed to be the airport taxi rank was safe enough. In the end I think he overcharged us a bit, but nothing too outrageous and he did take a direct route. We were just glad to be at our hotel. Hotel Casona del Patio was basic but quite charming, and cheap. It was also in the area we wanted to be in, Chaperino. However for once we were not tempted to explore. It was quick showers and bedtime.

Of course we felt lots better after some sleep. We were in South America! Despite the travelling we've done, including most of Central America, we found this very exciting. We've been looking forward to this for a long time. We had breakfast and faffed around for a while before heading out to the Museo del Oro. The plan was to take the bus. We knew we needed a card but presumed we could buy one at the bus stop. WRONG! Nor did we find them at the next, or the next. In the end we had to walk the entire 1.30 hour route. In itself this isn't a bad thing, we've walked further. However the altitude of Bogota was affecting us, me in particular, which made it very hard going. We'd intended to take it easy until we'd acclimatised. I just didn't feel able to take in enough oxygen.

We were nearly at the museum when we finally found a main station selling the travel cards. Sadly they did not understand what we were asking for so we left empty handed. Before Central America we were quite disciplined about learning a bit of Spanish every day in the months before the trip. This time we just didn't get around to it. Which is foolish as you really need some Spanish to get by. We've remembered a bit, but not nearly enough.

Next we tried the tourist information office, where we had more luck as they spoke English. The card we'd asked for was out of date. She wrote the new name down for us and pointed us in the direction of another station. We (well, David) were finally sucessful and at last had 'tu llave' card charged with COP 20k (about 10 journeys). One card is fine for two people, you just scan it twice.

After a celebratory ice-cream we made it into the Museo del Oro. It was interesting enough, although much like the jade in Taipei we'd seen enough gold by the end of it. Most of the day was gone by now so we caught the bus, using our new card, back to the hotel.

After a good deal of fannying about (still a bit tired and sluggish) we made it out of the hotel. We'd planned to go to a steak place just around the corner. Unfortunately it was shut and we had no back up plan. After some aimless wandering we went to School of Rock, a bar and grill David had briefly read about. I'll be honest, it did not look an ideal place for food. But they were playing rock, and we were starving. In fact appearances can be deceptive. We both had burger and fries and although it was not the meal we'd planned I have to say it was very good indeed.

Our next stop was a bar we'd researched ages ago, a KISS themed rock bar called Dynasty Galeria. It seemed a bit too good to be true. But we found it, walked in to the sound of heavy metal, and were immediately impressed by the vast amount of KISS memorabilia. A few other rock bands but mainly KISS. We loved it of course, and settled down for a beer. Well the music was great and we stayed for a fair few. In fact we were about to leave when they asked if we had any requests, so of course we had to stay for another! This is one of the main reasons we travel to be honest. Obviously beaches and lakes and museums, etc are all amazing. But there is nothing like finding a rock bar halfway across the world and feeling at home.

It was about midnight when we left, later than planned given Bogota has a bit of a shady reputation, but we felt ok about it. But then as we left another customer (a guy we'd had a bit of a sing along with) stopped David and advised him to get an Uber as it was dangerous to walk. This worried us a bit, but an Uber/taxi for a nine minute walk seemed extreme. David explained our route and where we were and this seemed to reassure him a bit, and he said that area of Bogota was safe enough and we should be ok. Still slightly worried we made our way back. It all seemed fine. A few (quite normal) looking people walking home including a woman on her own which was comforting. Anyway, we made it without incident.

The following day we used our new travel card again, this time for the Botero gallery. Before going in we took a stroll around Plaza de Bolivar, which was very impressive. Then it was into the gallery. Although small, it has an amazing collection of art by Botero himself as well as other modern artists including Dali, Picasso and Monet. The building itself is wonderful too. Plus, it's free, always welcome. We thoroughly enjoyed it. Once we'd finished we popped next door to Casa de Moneda. Another nice building and some art, and free again.

After the galleries we grabbed a delicious empanada each (we may become addicted), then caught the bus back to the hotel. We relaxed with a beer in the hotel courtyard before planning our evening. Obviously we intended to return to Dynasty. First of all we needed some dinner. Our hotel was in the Chaperino district. We'd chosen it for it's proximity to Dynasty, and also as it it is deemed pretty safe. It was definitely the right area for us, but it is quite an affluent area and a lot of the restaurants are expensive international places. So, knowing Colombian might be hard to find, we picked a Chicago deep dish pizza place called Strombolli.

Given all the pizza we have consumed I can't quite believe this myself, but we've never had Chicago style pizza before. Obviously we've had deep pan, but that is not the same thing at all. So we decided it was about time to correct this oversight. The verdict? David loved it. I thought it was very nice, and I'd have it again, but it isn't going to replace 'normal' pizza in my affections. Also, it was nowhere big enough for two. We asked the waiter which size to get (in mangled Spanish) but he unhelpfully explained, at length, in Spanish. It was blatently obvious we had no idea what he was saying. We did try and get him just to point to medium or large but he seemed unable or unwilling to understand. So we picked one... the wrong one. Oh well, it was a nice enough meal and did mean we got to grab another empanada on the way to the bar!

We walked into Dynasty and they immediately recognised us and remembered our order. Once again it was a great night, with lots of glam, thrash and NWOBHM. Pretty much perfect for us. We stayed for about five beers, then did the sensible thing and left, knowing we were travelling the following day.

We've not seen everything Bogota has to offer. But we know we'll be back as our onward flight to Peru is from Bogota airport. After a relaxed morning we caught the airport bus (again using our travel cards). We had planned to travel to Medellin by bus. In the end we decided that flights were cheap enough to justify avoiding a ten hour bus journey in favour of a one hour flight. Probably cost us an extra £20 each. We ended up sitting on the runway for ages, but the flight itself seemed way less than an hour. At 5pm we arrived at Medellin airport.

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