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Published: October 4th 2014
The ups and downs of traveling. From great places like Pucon to shitholes like Puerto Montt. Well, more to that later.
When I got up the day after the volcano climb I can not tell you how much I knew that I have legs; they hurt like hell from the previous day activities. But I was still on a high from the experience.
The day was absolutely gorgeous but I decided that it is time to move on. Friends in Santiago told me to go to Valdivia, a town on the coast. I was told that it is a relaxing place with some good places to visit. So I booked my ticket, went back to the hostel and packed my bag.
The trip into Valdivia was only about 3 hours and after a short walk to the home away from home I arrived at the hostel Airesbuenos Central. This place is run by a lovely American woman that tries to run the hostel as ecofriendly as possible. All the heating and hot water is done via a very efficient Italian wood heater that needs not a lot of wood at all. In the garden there is a very
affectionate goose that doesn’t leave you alone while you walk around but if you try to leave it bites you. Cheeky bugger.
After I dropped my stuff off I did a tour of the town and I have to say that the advice from my friends was spot on. Valdivia was a sleepy little town with rivers everywhere. The main action happens as usual at the main square where there are many restaurants. I saw a great little café called Hausmann and I have heard that this is a great place to eat Crudos. Not really knowing what Crudos was I decided to check it out and try for myself. And what a pleasant surprise it was when I found out it was steak Tatar. Raw meat with spices and onions on toast. They gave me a serving of 300 grams of the meat and a beer for 10000 pesos, about A$20. It was a meat lover’s heaven. Great taste and just what my body needed to recuperate; protein.
That night I met my first big group of backpackers and Chileans that had to attend a conference and we had a great night just sharing experiences and a
lot of tips were exchanged. And after a quick trip into town I hit the bed rather early.
The next morning I just walked around the town and the botanical gardens. The trees and fauna are very different to what we have in Australia and is was nice to see so many different trees and plants. At the fish market you could see sea lions mingle with the fishermen, trying to steal some of their catch. And let me tell you these sea lions are big boys.
When I came back to the hostel a bit later that night there was a full party going on with all the people that stayed at the place. And around 11 pm we decided that a trip into town is on. Party life here in Chile starts around 11 pm and goes into the early hours of the morning. So it was Thursday night and the places we went to were packed. And the atmosphere was fantastic; lots of loud South American music, dancing and a beer or two. Good fun.
Friday was spend with going to some Spanish ruins but it was a bit of a letdown as the
Chilean government is building a new museum at the site so it was closed to the public. Nevertheless it was nice to walk on the beach that is completely black. Something one doesn't see every day.
On my return I was told that I should do a river cruise that would take me to some islands and an old German mansion that was built in 1857. So I did and it was nice. The islands we visited are totally isolated from the main land and everything has to be transported by boat. The buildings were very old and run down.
The mansion was totally gutted but still very impressive. I was told that it was destroyed in 1960 during the earthquake that hit Chile with a force of 9.5. 80% of the town was destroyed and the whole landscape shifted around. What was once land was now flooded by the sea and what once was sea was now land. One can still see the different areas that were effected. For example the tree stumps that are now deep in the water.
After returning from the cruise it was back to pack the bags for today’s journey to
Puerto Montt.
My bus left at 11 am so after a quick goodbye to everybody, including the goose, I hit the road again. The trip was very nice with great sceneries on the way. One can feel that it is getting colder and colder the further south I am getting.
At about 3.30 pm I arrived in Puerto Montt and what a shock it was. This place is a major navy and shipping town and one can not only see this but smell it as well. I have to say that it is the dirtiest town in Chile I have visited so far. But it is also the gateway to Patagonia so one has to start from here.
I was told that I have to catch a boat to Chaiten from Chiloe which is further to the south. But the boat is not leaving until Monday night and there is no way I spend a day more here than I have to. So I found out that there is a new bus connection that has just opened up. Off I went to the bus station to find out if they are leaving on Sunday. Which they do.
So I bought the ticket and will leave this place tomorrow at 7.00 am sharp. 11 hours on the bus is what I can look forward too. The trip includes to ferry crossings as well so I am looking forward to it.
That’s it in a nutshell. I am now on my way into the heart of Patagonia, one of the most spectacular areas in the world. And I am looking forward to exploring it like a kid is looking forward going to a candy store.
Take care wherever you are and have a fantastic week. As normal I am looking forward to your comments.
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Carla D.
non-member comment
Hummmmm... One of my favourites. In any place I go, if I have the chance, always ask for one..