Seductive, destructive witches and warlocks stalk the forty, Irish-green islands of the Chiloe archipelago, or so they say. Located off the coast of Chile's Lake District, the islands were isolated for centuries, and many are still rarely visited by outsiders. Thus, they've developed their own culture filled with magical tales, a unique dialect and cuisine, and a vernacular architecture of brightly-painted houses on stilts and beautiful, handcrafted, wooden churches. I was up for an adventure! Big Skies Flurried with Clouds I'd been in big city Puerto Montt, and after a week of waiting for the clouds to part, I'd finally gotten to see the perfect, snow-capped cone of Volcano Osorno; I was ready to leave. My rolling suitcase flew me down the steep hill to board one of the many buses for a four-hour ride to
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