Blogs from Chiloé Island, Los Lagos, Chile, South America - page 12

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South America » Chile » Los Lagos » Chiloé Island December 14th 2006

A lot has happened in this past week, seen as a crazy moment in Chilean history. I’m sure by now all of you have heard the news that Pinochet died on Sunday the 10th. Two days following his death, the country was divided between the pro-Pinochistas, mourning his death, and those standing against the past dictatorship. The city centre was almost to a standstill with the smell of tear gas and people celebrating Pinochet’s death and creating havoc. This whole madness is very much part of the Chilean culture, who love to confront the authorities. In the mean time, I made the right decision of escaping all of that mess and left Santiago. I went off on a 12h bus journey down to the south of Chile to meet up with my mate Evan, an old ... read more
Palafito's backside
Palafitos
Wooded church in  the village of Achao

South America » Chile » Los Lagos » Chiloé Island November 20th 2006

Chiloe, just as all the books will tell you, is really quite different from the rest of Chile in terms of culture, cuisine, topography, etc. If you ever find yourself in the south of Chile, Chiloe is definitely worth a few days...... read more
Castro
Castro
Tenaun

South America » Chile » Los Lagos » Chiloé Island November 16th 2006

It had been quite a day getting to Chiloé. We'd ridden 60km in a headwind through coastal scrub along the Ruta 5, which south of Puerto Montt shrinks to two lanes while carrying as much traffic as the four-lane highway. We had enjoyed a respite on the vehicle ferry to Chiloé, turned the cranks for a few more kilometres on Ruta 5 island-side and headed north towards the coast. We had only about 10 kilometres to go on small, steep hills paved with loose gravel that we had to coax the bikes over. We crested the last hill, skidded down to the bay on our brakes — and disovered that our road ran out. So much for our map, which had the road following the bay to a nearby fishing village called Caulín. As it turned ... read more
Last pickin's as the light fades
Tent with a view
An 800m slog across the beach took us to a road to Caulín village

South America » Chile » Los Lagos » Chiloé Island November 11th 2006

Nick: Our first view of Villarica was through a veil of rain. We found a spot to sleep and then set to investigating how we were going to discover the delights of Villarica and its surroundings. Our first full day in the area involved firstly scouting the Tourist Office, to no avail as any instructions/advice we were given was lost in the deafening music they had blearing out of the computer. So, we opted for a visit to Pucon, on the opposite shore and at the Volcano's feet. Once there we starting quizzing tour operators for their prices and service. All were pretty similar, except for some difference in prices and we finally chose one company due to a particular extra they provided, but more of that later. We decided to forego an ascent on the ... read more
Mood lighting, Villarica style:
NO  number of hygienist appointments could help with this
Just a few more meters...

South America » Chile » Los Lagos » Chiloé Island November 6th 2006

Leaving Castro and our cabana was a struggle. We have both thoroughly enjoyed our relaxing week and definitely loved the novelty of cooking for ourselves, especially some of our old favourites. Arriving at Puerto Montt in plenty of time, we found where the Navimag boat the 'Magellanes' was leaving and registered. We then went and grabbed a bite to eat and a few provisions for the three day boat trip. Bording the boat we were both like two kids at Christmas, exploring the boat and getting settled into our dormitory beds. Even though there are about 100 of us in one section, our beds are quite private with curtains making it very cosy. Once set sail we all settled in with a surprisingly good dinner and then the film 'March of the Penguins' (in English, which ... read more
The cosy cabins

South America » Chile » Los Lagos » Chiloé Island November 6th 2006

Un gros hola à tous. Après seulement un peu plus d'une semaine, mes jours au Chili sont comptés. En effet, nous repartons demain pour l'Argentine. San Carlos de Bariloche pour être plus précis. Il parait que ça ressemble à une ville suisse des Alpes, avec les chalets, les chocolateries, la fondue et les Saint-Bernard qui ont un baril dans le cou! Sounds good! Le Chili est souvent laissé de côté par les voyageurs, et j'ai un peu compris pourquoi. Premièrement, c'est de très loin plus coûteux que les autres pays Andins. Mon hamburger-frites-coke à 10$US en est la preuve (oui je l'ai encore sur le coeur...). Les aliments en particulier son aussi chères que chez nous, et même plus parfois. Deuxièmement, ça ressemble vraiment beaucoup à l'Amérique du Nord/Europe et on n'a pas vraiment de dépaysement. ... read more
Lac et volcan Villarica
Lago Villarica
Moi et le volcan Osorno

South America » Chile » Los Lagos » Chiloé Island November 5th 2006

Even though the weather was foul and the warm bed very enticing, we dragged our sorry selves out of bed and caught the 9.30am bus to Parque Nacional Chiloé on the west coast of the island. This 43,000-hectare national park protects a number of animal species and evergreen forests, as well as the tallest conifers in the southern hemisphere. We had a very fun 5 hours exploring the very diverse and incredibly thick (impenetrable came to mind) forest of the Tapu tree and the sand dune beaches - where we looked out to sea and realised that you would not see anything until you came to New Zealand, a long way away, if you decided to don a wetsuit. The urge passed us both quickly. They are very proud of this strange Tapu tree, a ... read more

South America » Chile » Los Lagos » Chiloé Island November 4th 2006

Today we bit the bullet and ventured out of the comforts of Castro (and our cabana, for that matter). We caught the 2 hour bus to the end of the island. To the southern 'frontier' feeling, thriving port town of Quellon. The journey there gave us a good insight into the lay of the land. A lot, if not all, of the inhabitants of the island live on the east side of the island, due to the more settled weather. We passed ranches, dense forest, seaside towns nestled in secluded coves and many roaming livestock and dogs. Quellon is not all that noteworthy, but it did produce a very pleasant restaurant for us to sample some more local fish. Ed's salmon and Gemma's marluza (or something like that) were delicious. A possible claim to fame that ... read more

South America » Chile » Los Lagos » Chiloé Island November 3rd 2006

With all the right intentions of getting up and out to explore the island or just something other than the four walls of the Cabana, we woke at 7am. However it could have been the tea in bed, or the windy cold weather outside or the lie in till 11 that dictated the activities or lack of for the rest of the day. We are not afraid to admit that we are throughly enjoying the lazy and relaxing time we are having at the moment. One thing Gemma did do today was research more into possible activities etc we can do for the final 6 weeks in South America. We do not think we will get much time to sit down and relax again until South Africa, as the list has just doubled in size ... read more

South America » Chile » Los Lagos » Chiloé Island November 2nd 2006

Today our mission was to go on, or at least arrange for a future day, a tour to either the National Park on the west coast or somewhere else of interest on the island. However we came across a number of hurdles: a constantly closed tourist office, and a claiming-to-be 'always open' tour operator which was not, with two evil ladies not letting us get or look at a leaflet until the place opened "any time now". Oh and another tour company that is promoted around town - their office is a building site. With no forwarding address. Not being beaten, we tried to arrange to go to the park ourselves - surely it could not be that hard. However, the only bus company - that has one bus a day - never has anyone ... read more




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