Paradise Lost: The Dreaded High Season Picture-perfect Pucon is an off-season paradise, sandwiched between a forested lake and the smoking Volcano Villarica, one of the four most active in South America. When I arrived in late spring, the volcano was blanketed in snow, and all was dreamy and mellow in the little town of 25,000. I met and made friends on sunset walks along the landscaped, lakeside promenade. Some of these friends owned restaurants and hotels; for ten months of the year, their businesses were slow and allowed them to enjoy life. Then, for two months in summer, all bedlam breaks loose, and my friends were buried in enough work to tide them through the rest of the year. In the days before Christmas, the town swelled to 200,000, as refugees from the furnace of the
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