Black Gold in Brazil


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South America » Brazil » Minas Gerais » Ouro Preto
September 25th 2009
Published: October 2nd 2009
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Wise photo worth $40Wise photo worth $40Wise photo worth $40

I took this photo as we left the rental agency after I noticed that the gage showed only half a tank of gasoline. The contract indicated that it was full.
Friday
We had planned pretty much the same today as we did on Thursday. But as you would have read, we did nothing on Thursday. So, when we woke today we decided to venture out of town. It was time for me to drive again in Brazil. Up to now we were taxied around or with Maria.

So, we headed out to find a rental car agency, which we did by 9:30am. This became another test of my Portuguese but it worked. We rented the car for a day. Then we drove on the 'road to Rio' for about 60 miles south, then east for another 25 or so.

We arrived in Ouro Preto ("Black Gold") before noon and toured the area around the square. As usual, once you park your car you are approached by many people wanting to be your personal tour guide. If you agree, you are led to the jewelry stores that provide them the biggest kick back. As we were familiar with the town we passed on this opportunity.

The two must-do stops in Ouro Preto are the Church of St. Francis of Assisi, known here as Igreja Sao Francisco da Assis, and
Window view of Belo HorizonteWindow view of Belo HorizonteWindow view of Belo Horizonte

Jackie took this photo as we were driving to Ouro Preto. We are always amazed at the view of the cityscape.
the second is the large outdoor shopping bazaar of soapstone merchandise. They make many different uses of the soapstone and carve wonderful scenes in them. When we lived here we picked up many things at this bazaar but on this trip we just admired their work.

After the bazaar we toured the church. Sadly, we were told not to take any photos on the inside. It is too bad because the church is amazing with paintings on the wall and ceiling plus lots of gold plating. Behind the chapel was a small museum where I was able to take a couple of shots.

By 1:00pm, we were ready for lunch and a cold beer. So, we returned past the square to the restaurant Casa do Ouvidor. It became a common stop for us in the years we lived here. All of our visitors have had lunch here. Off the balcony are wonderful views of the store fronts and streets. I had a nice lunch with salad (this later comes into play) and a grill chicken dish. Of course, we had more caiprihnas.

While living in Brazil we met a young artist named Alfredo Vieira. After seeing how
Ouro PretoOuro PretoOuro Preto

I think this village is the best tourist site in Minas Gerais. We took all our visiting guests here when we lived in BH. It is about a two hour drive south of the city.
good his landscapes were we commissioned him to do one oil painting for us and each of our three daughters. We still have them displayed in our homes. Returning to Ouro Preto brings these pictures to mind and I attempted on this trip to remember and photograph the same views.

After lunch and some more shopping we departed for our drive back to Belo. On the way we stopped at my old golf club, Morro do Chapeau. It is about 20 miles south of Belo just off the road to Rio. It was fun to flash back to those days. When I was here there were only nine holes with two tee boxes for each. So, you would play the first nine off one tee and the second off the other. It appears that they have now expanded to 18 holes plus a driving range.

After this stop we continued back to Belo passing across the Belvedere area down to the car return in Savassi. I was happy to have made it back to the car return without problem. The driving here can be stressful and dangerous but we made it. On the way we stopped to fill
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It is neat to be back here. We had oil paintings commissioned for us and each of our three daughters when we lived here. Being back reminds me of those paintings.
up the car with gasoline or actually alcohol which is used throughout Brazil. I paid about $40US to get the tank above the level where we started. Fortunately I had taken a digital photo as we left so I now used it to know how much I needed to add as we were gassing up.

Then, as I was closing out the account at the car agency, I was presented with an invoice that was about $40 more than I expected. After much discussion, including my broken Portuguese, I discovered that they were charging me for not returning the car with a full tank. That’s when I took out my camera and showed them my photo which included the gas gage and the odometer. It worked. They dropped the charges! So, let that be a lesson whenever your rent a car.

Nearby was a stop Jackie had been yearning for. Our old bakery, which was know as the best in Minas Gerais. With all the eating that we've been doing I was not certain why we went there. I knew right away, however, when I spotted the bear claws!

Returning to the hotel we took a break
Military PoliceMilitary PoliceMilitary Police

If you get arrested in Ouro Preto you have to kiss the cops. I've heard of worse punishment.
to get ready for a dinner planned for the restaurant A Favorita. Maria had booked the restaurant for seven people at 8:00pm. Maria's first cousin, Gustavo and his son gave us a ride. Joining us at the restaurant was Maria, Gilberto and his 18 year old daughter, Ester Maria.

As usual, the restaurant was wonderful. We were there for hours and had several courses and we finished off two nice bottles of wine. After desert four of us had cafezinho (small coffees). As we learn later, those four items become important to this story. This is another restaurant that is a member of the club that offers souvenir plates if you purchase the house special (prata da boa lembranca). Although we chose a different dish, Maria sweet talked the concierge to provide Jackie a plate. (Sadly, this plate did not make it back to Atlanta in one piece!).

Then it came time for the check. I noticed when it was delivered to the table that Gilberto took a keen look at it then placed it in front of Maria. She paused a while and left it on the table. There was still much conversation taking place so I
Ouro PretoOuro PretoOuro Preto

This view matches one of the paintings and maybe two.
decided to take a look myself. I was surprised to see the total without tip was $1300BRL or about $730!! Since we selected the wine for the dinner, I thought maybe that I had messed up and ordered some rare French wine. I doubled checked the invoice to see if that was the problem. It was not. I remember choosing the second cheapest wine on the list which was about $70BRL or $40US per bottle. The bill was correct.

So, no one wanting to say much, we decided to suck it up and pay. We divided the check by seven and then paid our share. Ours was about $220US. Maria’s was more than $300US!! No one raised much of an issue and we headed home.

That night, I could hardly sleep thinking about that check. I felt guilty that I had ordered something or missed something that would cause the bill to be so high. I did the math in my head several times and finally woke Jackie to say that it had to be a mistake.

Read my next blog to see what we discovered.
Tchau!







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Ouro PretoOuro Preto
Ouro Preto

This area is in the heart of gold and jewel mining. They have wonderful stones and jewelry for sale.
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Ouro Preto

More jewelry.
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Ouro Preto

They do a great job maintaining the historic architecture.
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Ouro Preto

This market has not changed a bit since we left Brazil almost ten years ago. Looks like the same stuff for sale. Wish we had room in our luggage to bring you a gift from here but this stuff is heavy.
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Ouro Preto

Very nice art carved in the vases and urns.
Igreja Sao Francisco de AssisIgreja Sao Francisco de Assis
Igreja Sao Francisco de Assis

There are several churches in the village. This is one of our favorites. They would not allow photos inside which is too bad because it is very nice with ceiling painting and lots of gold plating.
Igreja Sao Francisco de AssiaIgreja Sao Francisco de Assia
Igreja Sao Francisco de Assia

Here’s the details on the church.
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Ouro Preto

View of a second church from the Francisco de Assis church.
Igreja Sao Francisco de AssiaIgreja Sao Francisco de Assia
Igreja Sao Francisco de Assia

Well, if no one was looking you might sneak in a few photos behind the main chapel.
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Ouro Preto

I think this view may be one of the oil paintings by Alfredo V.
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Ouro Preto

Love the windows.
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Ouro Preto

Another cool church at the hilltop. I did not get the name of this church.
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Ouro Preto

Same church different setting. More 17th century architecture.
Casa da OuvidorCasa da Ouvidor
Casa da Ouvidor

A frequent stop of ours during the years. It is on the second floor just off the square.
Casa da OuvidorCasa da Ouvidor
Casa da Ouvidor

We had lunch here once again. Anyone that every visited us while in BH has also eaten here because it became another one of our favorites.


2nd October 2009

Olympics in 2016!!
Guess y'all were near some of the celebration when they heard that Rio was chosen to be the city! xox P.
2nd October 2009

Olympics
I was pleased to see Rio chosen to host the Olympics. That will give us another reason to return. We are home now. I have only one blog to finish this trip. Since I've been home I have been busy.

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