Blogs from Beni Department, Bolivia, South America - page 31

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South America » Bolivia » Beni Department » Rurrenabaque August 29th 2006

Nothing seems to be simple in South America as we found out when we arranged our trip to Rurrenabaque in the Amazon. Everything was sorted for the next morning, our flight was at 4pm in the afternoon and we were ready to chill out until then. However, after returning to our hostel that night we were informed that there would be a road block that will prevent us from getting to the airport unless we leave at 6am in the morning before it starts. We got to the airport early the following morning and said our goodbyes to Bim who was flying home ready to start his job as a young professional. After hanging around La Paz airport for most of the day Gareth, Turner and myself eventually boarded our tiny plane to Rurrenabaque. This plane ... read more

South America » Bolivia » Beni Department » Rurrenabaque August 24th 2006

We'd decided that Bolivia (rather than Ecuador or Peru) would be the country where we'd visit the jungle. Rurrenabaque, a small town north of La Paz was the obvoius place to head for. There are 3 ways to get there. You can fly from La Paz (40 mins, 65 dollars), take the bus (super cheap but 18 hours of hell down the worlds most dangerous roads) or go by boat from Guanay, a gold mining town about 4 hours from Coroico. As we were already in Cocoico, after cycling down the worlds most dangerous road (WMDR), we decided to take the boat rather than bus back up WMDR to La Paz and fly. It was more expensive than flying (120 dollars each) but incorporated a 3 day jungle trip on the way (thus saving on food, ... read more
Road Block
Road Block Market
Setting Off From Guanay

South America » Bolivia » Beni Department » Rurrenabaque August 22nd 2006

The path was thin and dark and lined with as much noise as I imagine deckhands would make as they booed prisoners marching to the plank. Tumba and I climbed down a steep bank together to cool off in the fast black water of the Rio Beni after a fruitful four-hour traipse through the Bolivian jungle. Tumba was in the water before I even got my shoes off, splashing the water over himself and making noises almost like a zoo animal. Although it was night, it was still hot--like a steam room. My shirt was wet, as if I'd worn it into the river, though I hadn't even stepped in yet. In my bathing suit, the water felt good, cool and refreshing. But it was dark and I knew the Rio Beni had a strong current. ... read more
wetlands sunset
A kid in a candy store
lurking in the foliage

South America » Bolivia » Beni Department » Rurrenabaque August 22nd 2006

Pardon the dated material as we finished this trip the 8th of August and have since traveled into Argentina. The one hour flight from La Paz to Rurrenabaque was spectacular. Departing La Paz at altitude and flying by Mt. Illampu was impressive. Landing on the grass strip and opening the cabin door to the warmth of the jungle was a welcome relief. We were booked in a local hotel just off the square, so we were able to wander around the one horse river town until our ride up river was the following morning. Passing through the square after dinner I noticed some activity near a temporary stage. What we didn´t realize was that it was the national Independence day, and the band played all night long. I mean all night long. We were met at ... read more
Our river transport
Early morning view
Heading upriver

South America » Bolivia » Beni Department » Rurrenabaque August 20th 2006

Rather like the speed of connection at the internet cafe I´m writing from, it´s been a week of highs and lows. The latter are behind us - hopefully - but one way or another the last 10 days in Bolivia have definitely been our toughest to date. Last time we wrote we were on the point of catching a plane to The Jungle, and that´s where the lows began. The local airlines are about as reliable as Frank Lampard, and we spent a day fruitlessly waiting at the airport for a plane that was never going to take off while the ground staff shrugged, joked and were generally well punchable. As a consequence of this, we ended up going drinking that night with an Irish guy who´d endured the same wait as us. And as a ... read more
Pool
Jungle Jim
Anaconda

South America » Bolivia » Beni Department » Rurrenabaque August 15th 2006

We took the decision to spend more time in Bolivia than we originally planned. With our travels in South America coming to an end, it seemed a big shame not to see something of the rainforests and wetlands that cover a large portion of this continent. After several weeks of dry high altitude living, the thought of mosquitos, creepy crawlies and drowning in our own sweat somehow seemed rather appealing all of a sudden. We booked three days in the Madidi rainforest national park, followed by three days in the Pampas, through America Tours in La Paz, who were a slick and super-professional organisation. We had to fly to the small jungle town of Rurrenabaque, which would be our base for the trip. The flight on the little 12 seater plane was all part of the ... read more
Feeling a bit Attenborough
Alternative employment
Heading for the jungle

South America » Bolivia » Beni Department » Rurrenabaque August 12th 2006

After looking at a couple of the tour deals in La Paz we decided to fly to Rurrenabaque and book a Pampas tour directly from there. We booked a 3 day Pampas tour and set off the next day in a 4 wheel drive with the driver, our Chilean guide, "Nikos", and a few other tourists. Oh yeah, the night before we went to the Moskitto Bar, which is full of gringos. Was privilaged to hear one Irishman´s account of his extra long jungle trip in which some freak weather occurred which eventually led to the death by drowning of an 18 year old guide in front of his eyes. The matter-of-fact way in which he related this tragedy to us, all the while enjoying his steak and ships, was kind of sick. Thought i would ... read more
Pampas trip2
Pampas trip3
Pampas trip4


Pampas in no doubt T H E best place to see wildlife in Bolivia. I came to this tour with low expectations, afraid of being disappointed, but was incredibly amazed by the variety of the animals we saw so close. This 3-day-tour started by arriving in a jeep to Santa Rosa village, situated not far from Rio Yacuma. From there we sailed in a canu and saw so many animals on the way, by evening arriving to our camp. Rio Yacuma is one of the smaller rivers that are the source of the Amazon river. On the second day we did a variety of interesting activities - Anaconda searching, Piranha fishing and of course Alligator hunting. During our Anaconda session, it started raining dogs and cats, so the grassland we went in became a real swamp, ... read more
Santa Rosa del Yacuma
In Santa Rosa del Yacuma
In Santa Rosa del Yacuma


The difficulty in getting to the Amazon and its general natural power were forced on us before we even got there with our 60 hour delay, but after arriving every second was worth it. We were lucky enough to experience both the Jungle and pampas and neither of us will ever forget them Before we left we´d decided to fly from La Paz to Rurrenabaque to save time and because the road is apparently awful! Little did we realise that delays to flights were so common due to bad weather, the pilot not finishing his breakfast in time or whatever. We expectantly turned up at 4.30am on Monday to get through to the gate and end up waiting there until every other flight had gone 3 hours later. Finally someone admitted there might be a ... read more
Anaconda in the Pampas
Caiman family in the Pampas
Birds over the Pampas


Most sane people do just a 2 to 3 days tour into the jungle, but in such a tour you stay in the same camp all the time, and unlikely to experience much. Thus we've decided to do a 5 day tour! Just before the tour I read Yosi Ginzburg's book - Back from Tuichi, who described his experience of surviving in the jungle for more than 20 days, after loosing his companions. It was amazing to travel in the same places as he did, and see that some of the things remain the same, although most has changed since his travel, some 25 years ago. His descriptions of the jungle were sometimes so accurate and after the tour I could understand much better what he went through, and that he didn't exaggerate at all. In ... read more
Rio Tuichi
First day camp
The Jungles




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