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Day 11: Franz Josef Glacier-Murchison
We drove a few kilometres to the glacier and were struck by its huge size and the fact that unlike the Fox, this one is actually advancing at present. Apparently it depends on the accumulated snowfalls on the neve (snowfield above the glacier) from as long ago as five years. The glacier bulldozes the snow down the valley and the Franz Josef is presently increasing in size, its front moving at one metre per day.
We spent a couple of hours in Hokitika, a small town notable as the centre of the greenstone (jade, sort of) industry - jewellery, sculpture etc. It was very very quiet there. That may be either the cause or the effect of a substandard coffee, at an ordinary-looking café, costing $NZ4.50.
We drove on to Murchison for the night, through several small former gold- and coal-mining towns. The corner pub provided a great BIG meal - the local rugby team after training downed several plates of the biggest steaks, eggs etc. that I’ve ever seen. The footwear was interesting - all had on slippers - the work boots and football boots left outside in neat pairs.
Franz Josef Glacier (2)
Up closer, but not permitted guideless as close as we were to Fox Day 12: Murchison-Picton
The trip to Picton on Thursday was another along beautiful valleys and some straight roads (at last).
Along the way I have made several cultural observations. The hot and cold water taps are mostly on the wrong side for Aussies and each shower set-up needs a degree to work out. On the telly, there are warnings about what to do in the event of a major earthquake or flood (very encouraging). NZers refer to the weather as chilly, fresh or cool when they really mean absolutely freezing. It’s hard to get out of the Australian habit of vigilance for kangaroos - you still expect the some wildlife to jump out of the bush other than the possums and stoats - there are no native mammals. the roadworthy certificate here is called a WOF - Warranty of Fitness. Road signs include silhouette of kiwi (one only seen s far - there are very few pockets left in the wild), and a giant exclamation mark, which appears to mean “warning - sit up and take notice - this is serious”.
In the afternoon we went off to two vineyards near Blenheim, in the Marlborough wine
On the rocks, Franz Josef walk
Tiny plants, fruits and all, adhere to a damp rockface in the forest walk near the glacier region. Fantastic whites - we have sampled many, especially the Sauvignons Blancs. We visited Cloudy Bay (established by the Cape Mentelle guy - which would explain the gum trees and kangaroo paws in the garden). Then to a very small vineyard, Huia, which had terrific bubbly. Both vineyards had the most unpushy sales staff - a real bonus, they actually encouraged people just to taste.
Weather here is beautiful - clear blue skies, 15 deg. but seems warmer. Quiet day tomorrow (Andrew's birthday), we think, as we have to arise early on Saturday for the 5:45am ferry to... the North! Leaving the birthday dinner until then, as Wellington's range of dining options is somewhat wider than Picton's.
Helen
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