Tunnel Creek and Windjana Gorge

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We spent the first night at a great free camp spot on the side of the road. Quiet spot, nice fire, good feed, in the company of people you love, a million stars shining over head, I don't think it gets much better than this!

Next day we were up early and headed down to Tunnel Creek.From Geike Gorge we travelled around to Tunnel Creek. This is a spot that the kids were really looking forward to as it involved walking through a cave/tunnel approx 750 metres long. The story behind Tunnel Creek is interesting and made the journey into the Tunnel system even more significant. The cave was used as a hide out during the late 1890s by indigenous freedom fighter Jandumurra. Jandamurra is known to some as a hero and to others as an outlaw. Jandamurras tribe was the Bunuba and they occupied the Napier and Oscar ranges and much of The King Leopoldo Ranges. By 1883 much of their lands were occupied by Europeans and Jandumurra and his family went to Lennard River Station. It was here that Jandumurra learnt to be an expert shearer, horseman, marksman and learnt to speak fluent English. In time Jandamurra joined another indigenous man who was well known for sheep spearing in the area and he to began spearing sheep. He was eventually caught and taken to Derby however, the police recognising his excellent bush, horseman and marksmen skills drafted him into their service as an aboriginal tracker rather than chaining him in the Derby gaol. In time Jandamurra formed part of a very successful police tracking unit under the direction of P.C.Richardson. However, on October, 1894 Jandumurra shot Richardson in his sleep, freed many of the prisoners in the Derby jail and ran with them to Windjana Gorge. Jandumurra encouraged other indigenous men to join him in raids on stations and stock parties moving cattle and supplies through their area. They used tunnel creek as their hideout. There are stories of Jandumurra throwing rocks at the police from the top of ranges then disappearing leading the police on a wild goose chase. The police camped outside of Tunnel Creek for three days waiting for him to come out, little did they know there was a back entrance and Jandumurra just walked out the back way to again throw rocks at the police and make fun of them! (Learning about how badly the indigenous people were treated at this time, I say good on him!! Haha). Eventually Jandamurra was killed in a shoot out with police in 1897. Some people believed he possessed magical powers, I believe he was just one of the first indigenous freedom fighters, fighting for what was rightfully theirs in the first place. As we walked through tunnel Creek you couldn't help but think about Jandumurra, his men and the police and the events that took place here. The tunnel and cave system are amazing and just spectacular. Parts of the way through were jet black so it was just as well we had torches with us. The walk through Tunnel Creek involved crossing water that came just above our knees and was very, very cold. There was also a colony of bats living inside the cave - tiny little bats that made noises in protest to our presence. I was half waiting for millions of bats to come flying out of the cave like in a movie - I would've screamed the loudest if they did!! Haha Tunnel Creek is definitely a must do for anyone travelling in the area.

Windjana Gorge was next on the list. Windjana was quite beautiful. The rock formations and colours were different from most of the other gorges. The rocks tended to be more black instead of red. Still just as beautiful though. Windjana gorge was all but empty with only one main water hole still full. All up we counted 110 freshwater crocodiles!!

From here we travelled to a free camp spot at the Lennard River. It was a nice spot by the water and Gav and the boys couldn't get into the water quick enough to rinse off all the dirt and dust from the days activities. We enjoyed a great campfire and a restful night woken very early by the cattle mustering helicopters! Obviously the station cattle mustering time had begun.

We packed up and were about to head off when Gav came around to the front of the car and said " we arnt going anywhere" at first I thought he was joking when he said the shock absorber had come off. He wasn't joking not only had the shock absorber come off the bushes had just exploded. We definitely weren't going anywhere! Oh well no choice but to return to Derby for MORE repairs.

Long story short Mum, Dad, the kids and I spent the day in the park and Gav spent the day having repairs carried out on the trailer. We stayed the night in Derby and headed off again the next day for Bells Gorge.

The drive in was spectacular with gorgeous scenery and beautiful red rock surrounding us almost the whole way. We past one rock feature called Queen Victorias Head. From a distance it really did look likeQueen Victorias head! As we were driving I was surprised to see small patches of the landscape that were beautiful and green and even had Palm trees! Obviously there was a fairly constant water supply nearby.

We stopped off at a large lookout overlooking the Kimberley's and boy was it beautiful! There was a road train driving in the distance and even from up here you could see the huge plume of dust they create! After taking the obligatory photos we turned onto the Bells Gorge road.

Well if we were wanting to really test the shock absorbers in both the car and trailer , we found the perfect road to do it on! The corregations were horrendous and without doubt the worst we have been on yet. It was 20klms of bouncing, pounding and shaking - what a ride! The road was so rough. That even a couple of cans of coke in the fridge popped from being shaken so much! Haha

It was with slight trepidation that Gav checked under the trailer when we arrived at Bells Gorge (actually I think he sent Luke to look first! Haha). We had survived in one piece - hooorayyyy!!!

Quick set up and then straight down to Bells Gorge. It was another 10klm drive in and then a 2klm walk into the gorge. The corregations, the dust, the rocks, the walk were all worth it - Bells Gorge is absolutely stunning! When you arrive at the gorge there is a waterfall cascading down to a large swimming hole. The walk brings you outta the top of the waterfall and then another walk continues along the top of the waterfall and down into the swimming hole at the base of the waterfall. The climb down is quite steep and slippery so Mum and Dad chose to stay up the top but Gav, myself and the kids were eager to get down to the bottom. For a swim. We all stripped off and were in. The water was freeeeeezing! We swam out to the waterfall but didn't venture too close as the water went back under some low lying rock and apart from not wanting to risk one of the kids slipping under there, we also figured that any freshwater crocs in the swimming hole would most likely be lurking under there! (The water at most of these deep gorges is so black that as soon as the kids put there head under we can't see them so extreme caution has to be taken when swimming in them). After about 20minutes we got out of the water and layed on the rocks to warm back up. It's amazing how much warmth the rocks retain from the sun. It was abit like lying Ina warm blanket.

While we were lying on the rocks drying off we noticed a bird of the second level of the waterfall. This clever bird was catching small fish as they came over the waterfall! It was fascinating to watch. When we were dry we climbed back out of the gorge and caught up with mum and dad up the top. Dad had enjoyed a dip I. The top waterhole and mum had spent the time taking a million pictures! Haha we walked back to the cars feeling very refreshed and drove back to camp. It was now 5pm and we were the only people still down in the gorge. Another great meal topped off an amazing day.

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Photos

Tunnel Creek
The entry into the cave.

Tunnel Creek
Inside at the beginning of the caves.

Tunnel Creek
We were fascinated by this one white rock on the wall of the cave. It almost looks like an iceberg.

Inside the cave
We had to walk through very, very cold water. Ohh my God was it cold!! Haha

Tunnel Creek
This picture shows how dwarfed we were by the rocks.

At the end of the cave system
You can see the entrance to the rear of the cave system in the distance.

Tunnel Creek
Mum needed some help negotiating the rocks at the entrance of the cave.

Comments

[Jos en Cisca]

FANTASTIC.
many greetings from us.

[Amanda Stellino]

:)
Sounds like you're all having a terrific time! Very interesting read about Jandumurra, had no occurred to me that so much history can be found in the most remote places. That trailer is not being nice to you this trip is it! Not to worry its character building. Looking forward to reading more entries. P.S. That beard has got to go!!