TumbyBay to Ceduna

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I last wrote early on Monday 26th just a couple of days ago when we planned to go and check out the Lincoln National Park and were stuck in the van because it was raining so hard. Instead we decided to drive the 45 kms to Port Lincoln and treat ourselves to a lunch of fresh fish and chips. I can see your face from here Barbara. We headed off into the rain and managed to get to PL in time for an early lunch and went hunting for a fish and chip shop. We found one and it was closed. In desperation we went into some stores and asked the staff. They all looked at us blankly and the consensus was the fish and chip shop which was closed or go to a hotel. What we wanted was a really good feed of fresh fish and chips which came wrapped up in paper or a cardboard box as they do these days. We ended up in a bakery where we each had a reasonable pie shoved on a plate because they did not even stretch to a side salad. Very disappointing indeed. We then hit the road back to Tumby in the rain. Over 40 mls that day.

Next morning we packed up in between rain showers and headed off to Coffin Bay and arrived there about 11:30. We found a store called the "Beachcomber" and discovered they did fish and chips. Three other sets of grey nomads had also discovered this and they were all sipping lattes, we were reading kindles. We ordered our fish and chips and they were magnificent, well worth the wait. Whilst in the store I noticed they had some exceptionally fine looking lamb shanks. We had been looking for some to cook in our ecopot so I pounced on them. Very reasonably priced as well.

We did a brief tour of Coffin Bay which was very nice but nowhere near as lovely as many of the other bays along the coast. Every time we stepped out of the car to look at anything or take a photograph it pelted with rain. Coffin Bay had 38 mls Tuesday. GMan's comment was "At least it keeps the flies away".

In desperation we headed towards Sheringa and as we did the rain eased considerably. It was a nice day for a drive. I am still intrigued by the wonderful stone walls which run across the landscape.

Eventually we stopped at the Cummings Memorial Lookout and I suggested we walk the 500 mtrs up the hill to take a look at the lookout there. I started to get out of the car and remarked "it's a bit blowy do you really want to go" "it's fine" was the reply and Graham joined me on my side of the car and blanched. "I think I was in shelter" he said.

We headed off into what was a good breeze up the hill. I kept stopping and looking at the vegetation along with way. There was an amazing range of low, hardy looking shrubs thriving in the poor soil and many I had never seen before. They looked perfect as ground covers in large areas. I was intrigued. Well worth a look all you people in the APS.

As we headed up the slope the breeze went from good to brisk and was accompanied by some fairly loud whistling and crashing. Hmmmm, we started to wonder. We got to the first level area where the breeze went from brisk to strong and by now we were cold. We gamely put our heads down and struggled on until we reached the information board. There was a large parking area where we could have driven the car and van up and parked but our conclusion was that the whole thing would probably have been blown away. It was only about another 20 steps and we were able to see the ocean and the waves crashing up against the cliffs to the east. To take a photograph I had to brace myself one foot in front of the other and wait for a slight break in the now aggressive wind to click the button.

We could still hear massive noise above us and to the west so we struggled up the last 25 steps and saw the cliffs to the west, much closer hence the excessive noise. The wind was unbelievable but coming from all directions. A little out to sea we could see a rain storm coming towards us. We took our photograph and ran backwards because we did not want to be blown over the cliff. Sounds implausible but it was true we were being pushed forward by the wind and at one stage on the way down I had to run 6 steps because of the force behind me.

As we walked down a couple passed in a vehicle heading to the top and were declared wimps by we two who had bravely battled against nature. Was rather like the depiction of Scott battling in the Artic but he had the benefit of good winter clothing.

The rain storm actually passed a little to the west of us. Back at the bottom we got into the car which was warm, quiet, dry, without wind and appreciated.

Headed on again and passed the Lake Hamilton Eating House one of the few remaining cottages which serviced the mail and passenger coaches in the late 1800's. It has been well preserved.

We decided to overnight at the free overnight stop at Eyre's Waterhole which we visited last year. We set up camp then we wandered off to see the waterhole. Apparently it was a major stopping point for Edward John Eyre on both of his expeditions (1839 & 1840) when he was trying to go from Great Australian Bight to Albany.

The waterhole was described as a shallow well with about 15 inches of water in it which immediately refilled no matter how much water was removed. It was here that they topped up water to continue the expedition. These days the well has been lined with stones and concrete and the water at the bottom is green and does not look appetising at all.

The information board also told us that the members of the expedition would go down to the sea and pick oysters up from the sand and have variety in their diet.

The amazing piece of information we took away with us was just how young Eyre was when he was undertaking all this exploration. He was born in 1815, so the 1840 expedition happened when he was 25 years old, an amazing feat for one so young.

As we entered the path to go to the well there was a plough displayed. It was invented by a local tractor driver named Ferguson and used by Robert Bratton an early local government employee at the Tumby Bay council for road building in the harsh mallee environment of the Eyre Peninsula and the method became so successful and so widely used that it eventually became known as the Brattonising system of road making. The technique was to plough up the ground until a layer of clay was reached. Limestone rocks were then laid with smaller material and the surface was then sealed. Bet you all wanted to know that. We are convinced that some of the roads in the area are still being built by this method.

We set our port potty along the side of our van sheltered from the road so we could use it without having to put up the tent. Another lot of travellers came and set up for the night and took the only spot in the area which gave an uninterrupted view of our toileting arrangements. We had a quiet night with only 1 brief shower of rain and headed out towards Ceduna and were surprised to find we were only 115 kms away. We are now ensconced in the Airport Caravan Park, not the most salubrious but adequate. We have stayed here the last three times we have been through - it is always quiet and the dog is always on a diet. I must admit she is a bit slimmer than 9 months ago. The owner was chuffed when I told him that.

Tomorrow we will head off towards the Head of the Bight. Whether we go in and do some whale watching will depend on the number of whales which are present, the latest number is always posted at the turnoff. At this stage we can only find a record of 1 according to the SA Whale Watching site. We can also see the area free of charge from near the Nullabor Roadhouse if we think it is not worth the $10 entry fee each.

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Comments

[Silver Kestrel 2]

Judy always asks for rain
Send it all their way. You have struck a horrid patch of weather. Fish & chips are OK as long as you order grilled not battered. Also half serve of choppers. Was the Van cold again or have you added a truma diesel heater? Keep on keeping on & enjoying it. The Humpbacks were passing thru the Gold Coast on Monday. Hope there were plenty of mums birthing & some new calves for you to view at Head Of The Bite. Cheers Barbara & Robbie.

[Bolarks]

rain
The rain is coming from WA! There are now only 8 Southern Wrights at the Head of the Bight. Not sure if we will go in or not. Close to $1 a whale.

[Anne]

plough
That plough looks like the one at Brinkworth museum that was also used for road-making.

[Silver Kestrel 2]

Gosh you find some fascinating places
Cummings which I had never heard of throws up some interesting features. Low Wattle ? I presume that means Low Growing, does it spread across the ground & bloom, if so what colour? Are the walls you are describing the dry build stone ones ? Looking at the photo of Eyre's Waterhole, seems to show the dry build style that we see in the English TV shows of Location Location & Escape to the Country. We also remarked on them as we were driving thru somewhere or other, just cant remember where or when...2007 before we had the van we think. Love the photo of the Lake Hamilton Eating House, Iconic Oz building in just the right setting, hope it will always be preserved as is. The roadside Lake, is it just that, or part of the Ocean enclosed by rock & of course the coastal land ?? A different Robbie has emerged from his surgery, spending a lot of his time reading, with Classical music playing quietly in the background. Normally he would make a loaded comment about MY musical choices when I'm listening to it, should I worry about him. NUH!! Found John Wayne movie last evening, so all remains normal. We spend a couple of hours a day down on the beautiful Pumicestone Passage relaxing & walking, he loves being down there as do I. We are so lucky to have such a beautiful piece of Australia to retire to. We take our picnic lunch. We also spend time at Woorim Beach sitting & walking in the warm sunshine looking out towards Morteon Island waiting for the Whales as they pass between that Island and ours. He is walking a little further each day. Lyn returned to Perth yesterday.