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Published: September 2nd 2008
The snake
our first close call with nature and before we even reached the islanAn adventure we had been excited about just about as long as we had been excited about coming to Australia and now it was here, we were about to go to the magical Fraser Island. I don’t think either of us slept that well on the night before, just like the Disneyland advert, we were ‘too excited!’ Stood out on the pavement waiting for our big blue tour bus our first surprise was the arrival of a white land cruiser and our second was the that there would only be five of us on the tour. We had already met the other three people over the last day and thought that we’d be meeting more, as the trip was parties up to twenty, but not ours.
Bret was our guide and with fifteen years of experience touring Fraser and sand driving we felt in safe hands and soon felt all acquainted for the adventure that lay ahead. Setting off we soon found ourselves hurtling up Rainbow beach and our first stop, the beautiful sight of the coloured sands that come from the chemical reaction of the minerals in the sand from both rain and sea water.
Then we were
Rainbow beach
check out the colours, it's just amazing the whole beach front covered in every colour of the rainbow back in the truck and heading towards the ferry, only a short trip compared to the main crossing at Hervey Bay and before we knew it we were rolling off and onto the sands of Fraser.
Fraser Island is a completely sand island, the biggest in the world at 120Km long and an average of 15Km wide. Known as K’gari to the aboriginals it was renamed Fraser Island due to Mr and Mrs Fraser who became shipwrecked in 1836 off the north cape, he unfortunately died but she was helped to safety by the aboriginals. Not that that did them any favours, the island was found to be a source of many rich resources that the new visitors wanted. The island was sand mined for many years and the tall trees were logged and shipped around the world for there unique properties. Most famously due to the wood being able to with stand marine life and tremendous uninterrupted height, trees were taken from Fraser Island to wall the Suis Canal.
As we headed up the main beach to our camp we were soon sighting dingos and many sea birds, who all put great displays on for us, it
was magical. After lunch we headed off in land through the dense rain forest to lake Mackenzie. A very blue freshwater lake held magically above sea level on a completely sand island, filled with turtles and the odd fish, although we saw neither, we were soon in the refreshing water and although it wasn’t the warmest we knew it was special. Once we had dried off and got over the whiteness of the sand it was off to Pile Valley and our first Rainforest trek.
On our way to the forest walk Bret gave us all an important safety talk regarding the dangerous Drop Bears of the rain forests. These bears sit high up in the trees, we were told, and as they see tourists walking underneath they launch themselves down on them and their sharp teeth bite into the victims neck. Alice was fully taking all this information in as we all sat and listened to our guides wild tales of victims past. As we got out of the truck we went looking for a long stick before heading into the forest.
We past hollowed out trees, used as houses by the aboriginals and soon found ourselves
Fraser Island
the sea bird show looking high into the canopies some forty plus feet above, hard to believe that these trees were too small when the forests were logged. Which by the way was stopped in 1992 when the whole area became a World Heritage site and now the only industry allowed on the island is tourism.
Our first night at the camp was BBQ night, our first official Aussie Barbie and in true tradition we all got to try some roo. Yes I’m sorry little skippy came to the chop and actually he was very tasty.
After a really good night sleep in our dorm, not thinking too much about the poor buggers sleeping under the cold night sky from the self driver companies, we were soon fed and watered and back on the beach. Day two was all about heading north and with a 4.2 litre turbo monster and well qualified guide we didn’t do it slowly, eager to fit as much in as we could before we were forced back by the high tide.
Our first stop was Indian head, aptly named as when it was first sited by the British the Aboriginals were all seen stood on the
top looking out at the fleet. After a short walk to the top we soon had marvellous views up and down the island and out to the ocean and although they were far out we could finally see our first whales frolicking in the water. A great long awaited sight but just a bit too far out to quite satisfy our need.
Next we drove onto Champagne pools, rock pools on the oceans edge, named as when the large waves crash over the walls the wash falls and bubbles like champagne. A very pretty sight although not without it’s dangers, the rock pools are full of razor sharp barnacles to cut your feet and legs if you fall and with the large waves crashing over falling into the pools is the nicer option compared to being pulled out to the waiting sharks and jelly fish. We just had a paddle in the near side shallows, but still watched as people walked out along the sea front, fools.
Back in the truck and it was off to the far North, well as far as we could get safely, watching the fishermen casting away, we looked out for sharks attracted
tea tree river
the water washes out through the trees and out to sea bringing out all the tea tree oil. just add milk and sugar into the shallows by the blood of the bait. Unfortunately with the large swell and less then clear water this was not going to be our day for marine life, so settling for a collection of waiting pelicans we made our way back to Waddy’s point for our lunch.
On the way back down we stopped to pick up a German Girl limping down the beach, she’d been hit by a wave and been battered by the rocks and barnacles at Champagne Pools, no comment. We dropped her off by the rest of her self drive tour and carried on down the beach. The tide was coming in fast with the big swell and we felt very glad to have Bret at the helm as the drivable sand became quite scarce, he told us that he felt many of the self drive companies were quite irresponsible sending tours out ill prepared for what is involved. We passed some remnants of vehicles past and saw many bogged and stuck in our time on Fraser, the more we saw the more we were glad to be on a guided tour.
On the way back we stopped at the Pinnacles, much
like rainbow beach where the minerals of the sand had reacted to the water, although personally I was more impressed with Rainbow beach, although it was possibly as the sun was behind them. Then we came down to Eli Creek a completely fresh water stream direct from the water table, an amazing little eco system completely different from other parts of the island. Again it was time for a swim and a chance to cool off and relax a bit. The current was strong and when we lay back we soon found ourselves being pushed down towards the sea, just magical.
The final stop was the famous 1935 wreck, a luxury cruise liner used in the first world war as a hospital it ran aground on the 8th July 1935 whilst being towed to Japan for breaking, a rouge storm caught the ship and ripped the tow lines. Out of the many ship wrecks that Fraser has had over the years this one remains with only a few others, now too damaged and warn down to move, it makes the desert island feeling and a great tourist photo opportunity. It also made great target practice for the air force
in world war two, which is where it lost half it’s visible length. The rest of the drive back was quite tight, fighting against the advancing tides, the traffic was minimal as others had either taken the slower inner routes or just based camp, Bret was using all his skills as be watched the waves and felt the path home. The sand was soft and deep to the right and soft and wet to the left, we had the truck working but we felt quite safe and reassured.
On the way to the pub we had a close encounter with a local cane toad, a friendly enough chap sat in the grass, we passed our pleasantries and were all soon on our ways.
Day three and just a half day before we headed back to Noosa and solid land again. Just time enough to see the amazing sight of a walking sand dune. Travelling at about a metre a year the sand was engulfing the forest and blocking water ways. But greatly as nature did this it made some fantastic features, one of which was lake Wabby. We started by a drive up to the lookout, and it
was amazing, just like a giant had tipped his wheel barrow of sand in a heap on the forest. After a short walk we were on the sand dune, and what better thing is there when on a massive sand dune above a lake, we took our body board and went sand boarding! A great rush on the way down but a mouthful of fresh water and a hard sandy climb back up. It was great fun.
Once we had walked back over the dune and through the recovered forest back to the ocean it was soon time to say good bye to Fraser.
Back down the beach and across the ferry we took a diversion through the great sandy national park and were soon back to Noosa and our hostel. An amazing adventure had by us all, a real connection as we said our goodbyes, that we had shared something truly special. Something to remember for a very long time.
PS. There are no real Koalas on Fraser Island and if anyone ever shows you a photo then you should just laugh at them, as over the island there have been at least three cuddly toy
Koala bears nailed into the trees and many people have been sighted taking photos. Also the Drop Bears are not real, originating from the war, the Aussie soldiers used to tell the Yanks based in Australia to scare them.
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