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Published: February 28th 2011
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Yes, as soon as I left Needles, that Bobby Troupe song began reeling through my head in an endless loop. We crossed the Colorado into the Mountain time zone and headed east on the "Oatman Highway" -- in fact, a very original remnant of the original 66 "Mother road".
The pavement was rough (near Louisiana standard) and the speed limit was a low 45 mph, but I immediately liked the look of it. It was easy to see that these were the original '20s alignments, with narrow pavement that closely followed the contours of the land. That meant many wonderful curves, with lots of short up and down grades. Soon though, it was very clear that grades were tending to be predominantly "up". Then came the sign that I have come to look forward to on this trip. "Extreme Grades and Tight Curves Next 8 Miles -- Vehicles Over 40 ft in Total Length Prohibited".
We headed up through the narrow main St. of Oatman AZ (having lived near one my entire life, I know a tourist trap when I see one) and into the SERIOUS switchback grades. Forget about 4th gear, we even fell out of the "happy
zone" for 3rd for a while and chugged up in 2nd. I THINK I CAN - I THINK I CAN --! The car did fine though, moderate exhaust gas temps and the water temp right where it should be. A little snow on the road in the shady areas near the summit, but no traction problems at all.
I spent quite a bit of time at the top, admiring the views east and west. At only 3500 ft, it doesn't sound like much I guess, (heck, I was some 2000 ft higher in the Chiricahuas on gravel) but this pass is special. At one time this was THE gateway to the west, and all those desperate dust bowl refugees had to make their way over this one frightening bottleneck. I'm in a (relatively) modern car with a turbo diesel engine and four wheel disc brakes. To cross this in a worn-out old Chevy truck, as depicted in "The Grapes of Wrath" must have been an altogether different experience. Surely, for more than a few Pilgrims, the dream of a better life must have ended tragically near here.
On the way down, I came upon the restored "Cool Creek
Gas Station" and I pulled in for a photo opp. I went in to buy a cold drink and was engaged in conversation by the owner. He was a very nice guy and v. interested in the car. He volunteered to take my picture with the car -- perfect!
After that it was down, down, down into Kingman AZ. Then we headed further east, staying on "Historic 66" , but while this may have been a two (wide) lane, it was clearly a much modernized version. There was also a good bit of wet, slushy snow in the road. In some places it was high enough to drag on the bottom of my little low rider, but we made it through.
Then it was due south on AZ 89 to visit with my nephew Ian, who I had not seen in some 8 (we decided) years. Ian is attending Embry-Riddle University as a ROTC freshman. I'm not sure of the quote, or who it's from, but I remember something like "He stands before me, the man I knew as a boy". I immediately recognized him, even though he was so greatly matured.
We had a terrific late
lunch at a nearby Mexican restaurant. It's no surprise to report that he is a very nice young man, and a credit to his family. He promised that he would try to arrange an Army C-130 hop to Fort Drum and come visit us again, that would be great.
After that, it was really too late to get all the way back north to the Grand Canyon, so I landed in Williams AZ, the "Gateway to the South Rim". After last nights dumpy accommodations, I decided to treat myself to something a little nicer (just not too nice for Tightwad Tommy). So I ended up at "The Lodge", and for a very reasonable $59 I found myself in real "Boutique" motel digs. I don't think I've posted any room pictures before, but I'll make an exception here -- wow!
Tomorrow, it will be up to the Canyon. They say it is the most beautiful when it's snow coated -- and there is a heavy coat here now.
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Scott
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Dad you look like a giant next to the tub hahaha!