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Published: February 27th 2011
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I knew when I was planning this trip that how much I would be able to see would depend a lot on the weather. Well, today, we got “weathered” in a big way. Snow fell last night and today in places that haven’t seen a snowfall in many years.
In California, when it snows in the high passes, they require all cars and trucks to have chains, at least for their driving wheels. I did buy rear cable chains for my car before I left on this trip, but I will freely admit, I wanted desperately NOT to use them.
So I knew already that a trip to Yosemite was probably not going to happen, as the roads there are very high and snowy. I had hoped though, to be able to get to the sequoia groves south of Yosemite, and from there, south around Bakersfield and into Death Valley. Fine, but as I checked the CalTrans website this morning I could see that the news was very bad. Virtually all the roads of the central Sierra were “chain only” this morning, even the relatively low passes into D.V.
Not only that, but even the passes of Southern
California were snowed in, including the “Grapevine” pass on I 5, and apparently that almost never happens. So, it began to look like I might be stuck along the coast, with no escape possible for at least another day, if not more.
As I looked at all the possible routes east though, I noticed that the “Tehachapi” pass on Route 58 was not included on the list. That seemed odd, as that particular pass is over 4000 ft high, but I decided to give it a shot. That pass also has the famous “Tehachapi Loop” on the old Santa Fe rail line, which I thought would be cool to see.
So I got an early start from Hollister, and cut over to I 5 on the Pacheco Pass Highway, that pass was only about 2000 ft and without snow. The long drive down the 5 through the Central Valley past Bakersfield was not exciting, but at least the traffic was light. What I like about California Freeways (are you shocked to hear I like anything about them?) is that though the speed limit for cars is 70, all vehicles with 3 or more axles are restricted to 55.
I’m sure the truckers hate it, but I think it’s very sensible.
There was construction in Bakersfield, so I stayed on the 5 until Route 223, then I cut east through lots of flat farm country to Arvin, then started climbing up into the El Tejon Mountains to meet Route 58, the Tehachapi Pass road. I started to get a little concerned as the mountains were very snow covered and white, with lots of clouds higher up. A lot of the cars coming down the road had snow piled up on their hoods and trunks, not a good sign! As I got higher up though, I saw what was happening. Many families from down in the valley had been driving up here to look at the snow, bringing their kids to sleigh and make snowmen. I guess snow is rare enough here to make that a good Saturday activity. Many of the families were piling the snow on their cars to transport it back down into the valley, that explained the snow covered cars.
So, up to 58 we went, and then on up into the high pass. There was lots of wet snow all around on the normally dry mountains, but the road was just wet. We did see a long freight train going around the loop as we climbed, and soon we reached the summit without incident. Then the snow quickly disappeared as we descended again into the Mojave Desert.
The drive east to Barstow was a visual treat, with the rugged ranges and valleys lighted by the sun through the broken overcast. It got darker and darker as we headed east, we seemed to be catching up with last night’s passing front. As we reached Barstow, we drove into a dark gray murk, a snow squall! How many people have ever seen that in Barstow? As hard as it was snowing and blowing (plenty hard!) it was just too warm to stick to the ground, so we drove on pavement that was only wet.
As quickly as it began, it was over. We drove out into dazzling sunshine, and then, thick clouds of blowing dust -- what a crazy place!
On we went, now on I 40, across the endless desert landscape, weaving and winding between jagged dry mountains, down into the wonderfully named Needles, CA. Their we took a room in a “classic” old Route 66 motel.
Tomorrow, more of old 66, a visit with my nephew, and the Grand Canyon.
An additional word on the "Needles Inn" a classic fleabag it there ever was one. They promised me WiFi for my $29 a night, but I could not get it to work. So I'm coming to you now from Micky-D's -- awful "food" but most excellent internet!
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