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Published: August 19th 2014
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CLEETHORPES, LINCOLNSHIRE? NOT! After a 5 day hiatus from bike riding, as Ian mentioned yesterday, I was back on the bike today, with sufficiently plenty of Advils in my system. My back is definitely looser than it was, and although it still spasms to let me know that I need to lay prone occasionally, I am up and about a lot more than I was in the first couple of days. I hate being inactive, and not being able to do anything. Now not to overdo it!
I know that Ian touched on Galveston in his blog yesterday. What a cool, diverse place - understatement.
Located on Galveston Island, the city is flanked on one side by long beaches and Gulf surf, and the other flanked by the beginning of the Intra Coastal waterway that works its way up to New York (that's another boating trip on the bucket list). Galveston is not very big, with a population of 47,000. The central core is perhaps 40 blocks square. The two sides of the city seem diametrically opposed. The sleepy, historic downtown core with adjoining residential area couldn't be more in contrast to the frenetic beach strip on the
Gulf side of the city,
Upon riding into Galveston, my very first thought was of Cleethorpes, Lincolnshire (don't worry, I won't be offended if you have no idea where this is). Let me explain. And sorry in advance, Joe (my sister who still lives just a few miles outside of Cleethorpes on the farm in Aby, Lincolnshire). Cleethorpes is a hoaky little seaside town on the North Sea, near where I grew up in England. It is dismal there, even in summer, due to strong cold North Sea winds and cold ocean in which one would never dream of swimming. Brown beaches, toothless biddies and their lifelong husbands wrapped in blankets on cloth, wood-framed deck chairs that if you manage to assemble without losing a finger is a bonus, cigarettes with long ash stubs hanging out their mouths, hankies tied at all four corners adorning their heads, tea flask at the ready, shivering in the wind, is a typical day at the beach as my memory as a child serves. How wrong was I the further we rode into Galveston and particularly when we stopped and were able to walk along the beach. Indeed, the ocean is warmer than
my usual bath water (yes, I got my toes wet, but only because Ian promised there were no sea lice or fish), and although brown and murky, the surf was actually white. Many people were actually bathing because it was so shallow, and the only way to beat the heat. People all around were having fun. People all around said Hi. People here are extremely friendly. Cleethorpes has a long pier, and an amusement park with roller coaster rides, cotton candy, hot dog stands, you get the idea. Well, so does Galveston!! It's just a lot cleaner here! Who'd have thought! And on the other side of the road from the beach, miles of motels, hotels, resorts, pubs, restaurants, grills, bikers bars, fast food, and let's not forget the beachwear, beachtoys, beach supplies stores! It's brimming with life, energy, testosterone (there's that word again) on rumbling loud Harleys and highpitched crotchrockets (I have yet to see a bikergirl here), and you can't help but become immersed in the vibrancy like it or not. It's a mad house, with traffic racing by, people everywhere, six-person rent a bikes constantly dinging at you on the sidewalks, their pedallers giggling and having a
silly, good time. While eating dinner last night at The Spot, one such bar on the strip popular with the biking crowd and with a view of the beach and surf, we were treated to a two-block long wheelie by young guy one on his crotch rocket, and just when you got your breath back, his mate Evel Knievel follows close by doing about 40 mph standing upright on his bike, for as long as we could see him carry on down the strip. What happens in Galveston ....
Now picture a quiet, serene downtown area, with brick lined streets, rail trolleys, storefront cafes and tables, wooden benches, steep curbs, and balconied commercial brick buildings. Prior to arriving here, we had heard that it was a bit run down, but the only thing we saw resembling this description was perhaps a small part of the historic downtown core, around "The Strand" area. However, it appears to be undergoing quite a revitalization, both in the commercial and neighbouring residential blocks, with large two story mansions built in the 1800s being restored to their former beauty and magnificence. Their 19th century architecture features verandas skirting the entire main floor, large second
floor balconies, brightly coloured clapboard with ornate decorative white trim, just the sort of home where you can imagine life a hundred years ago where families might sit in rocking chairs on their covered porches, fanning themselves in the heat and humidity, and huge family dinners served in formal style inside, etc. The city does offer historic home tours.
Galveston is home to Carnival Cruises, and while we likely wouldn't take a Carnival cruise (come on, use your imagination...), Royal Caribbean does sail out of Galveston too. The cruise terminal is just two blocks off The Strand. If I had an opportunity to sail with RCC, I would definitely plan three to four days in Galveston prior to sailing.
We knew we had a very short riding day today, so decided to ride another free ferry from Galveston Island across to the Bolivar Peninsula where we rode out 20 miles and back. The scenery was much the same as Ian described yesterday - all the houses on the white powdery beach are on stilts, and beach parking is allowed. We ventured down Helen Road (seemed appropriate at the time) towards the beach, and Ian was daft enough to
ride onto the beach. Let's just call it a Charley moment. 15 minutes later, and after a wee bit of a struggle and much laughter, he managed to turn his bike around and get off the beach! Wayde ...... you may otherwise have received a call! After a quick break at Splashdown in miniature, where we slurped back refreshing snow cones and I stretched out my nuisance of a back, we returned to the Galveston Island ferry, and then were on our way via route 45, 146 and 3 to Clear Lake City.
The very last photo posted with today's blog, image number 48, taken from the window of our hotel here in Clear Lake, should give you a clue about where we are spending tomorrow!
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