My trip through the biggest state in the mainland was more about its culture than its sights. The things you notice quickly are the road signs: "Don't mess with Texas: $2000 fine for littering", "DUI: $10,000 fine and 10 years in jail, it just isn't worth it. Don't mess with Texas!". The radio is either rock, country, the religious right on talkback, or Hispanic. The best T-shirt I've seen so far was "Texas: it's bigger than France". I crossed the state line just outside Clovis New Mexico. A train came past in the other direction. It was at least a kilometre long and was carrying heavy artillery, Humvees, and more tanks than I'd ever seen in one place before. Yesiree, there be guns in Texas. I got to Amarillo for the night, which lies in the
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