Dundee Hills do well

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Geo: 44.0499, -123.089

This morning we took our time over breakfast as the wineries do not open until 11am. We set out to discover what the Dundee Hills area has to offer. This is a red soil area, not like the Terra Rossa of Coonawarra but still having its own richness.

Our first stop was at The Four Graces. This had a white timber house as its tasting room and we were greeted by a very charming host who was originally from Wales. We discovered that all wineries here charge at least $10 for a flight and sometimes $20. Also they have a charming custom of letting their guests sit outside and they bring the wine to them. This was the case here. We went out into a pretty garden area and sat in the shade on what was promising to be a very warm day. The first wine was a Pinot Gris. This was excellent, especially when we saw the price was only $21.The second white was a Pinot Blanc, not as good but better than those we had tasted in the Okenagen Valley. Good value for money. We then had three different Pinot Noirs from different parts of the winery. Each offered subtle differences in flavour but all were very good and compared to yesterday, good value for the prices asked. Our host was also very informative and friendly. A lovely start to the day.

Peter was the designated driver and stuck to water but he did enjoy the aromas of the wine as we went along. Our second stop was at a big commercial winery called Sokol Blosser, which was crowded. This had a very flash modern tasting room and complex and they charged $20 each. Again we were able to sit out on a beautiful balcony overlooking a scenic landscape of vines and rolling hills. Our host here brought out 6 wines in a specially built stand and rattled through the whole lot. Impossible to take in all at once. This had a Pinot Gris, a Pinot Blanc, a Rose and three Pinot Noirs. The prices here were much higher but we agreed that the taste was not as good, even in their top wine which was $85 a bottle. We did have a tasty charcuterie platter with it which took the edge off the hungry feeling as well as soaking up the alcohol!

We then paused for lunch. We went back to the town of Dundee where the wine guide we had picked up recommended the Dundee Bistro. This proved to be a good choice. We sat outside though the sun was now high in the sky and the temperature was in the high 30s. Fletcher and I both had pasta, he a puttanesca while I settled for a Garganella which had shrimps and mushrooms. Both were excellent. I had a glass of local pinot gris while Fletcher tried the riesling, both from Ponzi . The riesling was excellent, more like Australian riesling. Peter's fish and chips was also very good he reported, though his water was a little thin!

Then it was back on the road and another venture into the winding lanes of the Dundee Hills. Domaine Drouin was our next destination. This was one of the older wineries in this area, established in the early '80s. Their tasting area was attractive and there were lots of customers but more traditional than Sokol Blosser. Again we sat outside, again with another glorious view and had two different flights to try. We enjoyed most of them but we still preferred what we had tasted at our first stop.

For our final stop Peter returned to an earlier road, Ribbon Ridge and there we found Utopia, the winery, but also the place!. This is a small establishment on the top of one of the hills with a small tasting room, more intimate than the preceding places. We sat inside this time as the heat was rising outside.Luckily for us, the winemaker himself, Daniel, was there explaining his process to another group. He eventually came over to chat with us and was great. We loved his Pinot Gris, smooth and delicate with full flavour. Even better was the next, a Viognier, rich and mellow without the hint of dirty socks that most have. His Pinot Noir stood up and bested most of what we had tasted previously and finally he had a luscious Late Harvest Riesling, made in Ice Wine style. A rich array!. Peter bought a mixed half dozen on his sniffing and our recommendations. Daniel had been to Australia and Adelaide in particular and had an instinctive approach to winemaking which obviously pays off. What a great way to finish the day.

Then we headed for home. We paused to take photos at Carlton, a small town where most buildings had been converted to tasting rooms. Then on the road again. Fletcher and I dozed as Peter drove us through the Oregonian countryside, lulled by good wine, good food and a warm day. We did stop at Corvallis for a bite to eat at the Block 15 Brewery and Restaurant. Here we had very good American bar food but with a very ordinary bottle of local viognier. What can you expect for $20?

Safely home in Eugene we thanked Peter for an excellent few days. Only one full day and a half before we catch the plane home.

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Photos

Former Railway Station at Carlton
Now a tasting room